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59348SC
06-16-2007, 10:06 AM
Hi; I'm real new here but was encouraged by all the advice I saw reading through the forum. I have a basic question and I've probably made a newby mistake. I'm hoping for an easy answer. I just built a 348 with 3X2's and put it into a 59 Impala SC. It leaks oil from the rear main like a stuck pig. I figured I had abused the rear main seal on install so ordered a new one. When I opened the box, inside I found a bag with the traditional seal and another bag with two flat black gaskets poity on one end and a white nylon sleeve about 1/2 inch long. No idea where they go. I go back to my original gasket box and sure enough those small black gaskets are there. It's painfully obvious that I left them out. Question is, where do they go and can I get them in with the engine in the car. I could pull the motor if I have to but would really rather not.

Ronnie Russell
06-16-2007, 10:35 AM
59348sc, The mistake you made is common. You must pull the engine to make the repair. It may be possible to pull the pan with the engine in the car, but it would be easier to pull the engine and put it back on the stand to repair. Picture attached shows the rear main cap. notice grooves with single little hole on each side. the seals fit in these grooves and if left out causes big oil leak. Don;'t feel bad, it has happened to many. Bite the bullet , pull the motor, install the seals and everything will be fine. Good luck...... See thread dated 5.01.07 author models916 title---- new engine assembly....... 3480-409 engines

Ronnie Russell
06-16-2007, 10:43 AM
Finally found a picture...... BTW , welcome to the forum.:) :)

dq409
06-16-2007, 02:01 PM
With arrows:

johnnyrod
06-16-2007, 02:45 PM
Do you put on main cap first or on the block first? John

Ronnie Russell
06-16-2007, 03:35 PM
Johnny, The seals have a single tit ( excuse the language ) that fit in a hole in the grooves in the main cap. A very thin film of silicone will aid in holding the seal in place, then install main cap. Thanks for the arrows dq. Very nice.

59348SC
06-16-2007, 03:36 PM
Do you put on main cap first or on the block first? John

Not sure what you mean here. I built the engine on a stand, had it upside down, put the bearings in the block, dropped in the crank, did the plastic gage bit, that was fine, so put it all back together and torqued it down, minus the little black gaskets like I feared.

The book says I can pull the engine mount bolts, jack the thing up three inches and the pan will come off if harmonic balancer tang is in 6:00 position. I may try that instead of pulling the engine. That would be a last resort I'd rather avoid.

Thanks Guys

59348SC
06-16-2007, 04:05 PM
Pardon my manners, that picture was excellent, thanks.:)

Should I try to change the entire seal since I have a new one or just get the little black ones in and press on?

Ronnie Russell
06-16-2007, 04:48 PM
It would depend on if you are going to remove engine or not. If you replace in the car, I would only install the seals and go on. I assume the rear main seal is new. If you remove engine, and place on the engine stand, I would replace the rear main seal also. JMO...

models916
06-16-2007, 06:57 PM
I tried everything not to pull the engine. Just had to lift it about 8 inches.

http://www.348-409.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7170&page=2

tripowerguy
06-16-2007, 07:59 PM
Be sure and remove distributor before jacking engine.:eek: Roy

59348SC
06-16-2007, 08:22 PM
I agree with removeing the distributor, even the three inches the book says is needed would push it into the firewall. 8 inches sounds like a lot, but I'm motivated to not pull the motor.

The book says that with the harmonic balancer tang at 6:00 position it puts all the counterweights in the right position. Question is; with the balancer installed, wheres the tang? Is it at the same position as the timing mark?

Ronnie Russell
06-17-2007, 11:02 AM
Afraid I don't know what a harmonic balancer tang is. I did look at a crankshaft and with the timing mark at 6 o'clock the front counterweights are in the up posistion, so I think this would help. After the pan is loose, you may have to rotate crankshaft , one way or the other, until clearance is gained. Good luck.

dq409
06-17-2007, 03:36 PM
One problem with doing this in the car is that you will have a hard time sealing the timing chain cover.

Take your time and make sure wvwrything is cleaned up and use some black or gray sealer,, Jim

59348SC
06-17-2007, 06:46 PM
My bad; I don't know why I said "tang" I reread the book and it uses the much more logical phrase "keyway". I just ordered a new pan gasket, it'll be here Tuesday, guess I'll probably schedule this for next Saturday, should be interesting at least.

Thanks for all the help and advice, it can't leak any worse than it does now, even if I mess it up, so I don't have anything but my time to lose for the effort.

models916
06-18-2007, 09:04 AM
My only problem was the pan hitting the flexplate until I lifted the engine the additional inches. Front cover seal is easy with a bead of permatex on the rubber piece, same for the back. Un-torque and retorque the rear main with the engine hanging from the chain and laying on your back is quite a trick.

johnnyrod
06-18-2007, 10:10 AM
Dont we all get to do the old retorque on our back trick ? John

tripowerguy
06-18-2007, 10:15 AM
I did that once and pulled all the muscles in my rib cage!:nono1: I had a hard time breathing for a week.:) Roy

59348SC
06-24-2007, 04:15 PM
Well, Thanks to all the encouragement and advice from the members of this group (and a day and a half on my back), I now own a leak free 348. Its amazing what two little gaskets put in the right spot will do to reduce oil consumption. I couldn't have done it without your help (esp. the pictures)
Now I have to fix a new gas leak from my pump, figure out why it runs hot, finish my interior, repair my paint where it nerfed the trailer fenders, repair a shorting wire under my dash, fix my headlight switch and my wiper switch .................................................. ...................................Life with an oldie, you gotta love it! :rofl

Ronnie Russell
06-24-2007, 04:46 PM
59348SC ,,,,,, Congratulations on fixing the oil leak. Quite a little job. Like the TV commercial says,,,,,, cardboard on concrete. My back wont take that kind of abuse anymore. Glad you got it done. The list of " to do s " you have will be a piece of cake compared to pulling the oil pan while still in the car. In my opinion, you never get through with one of these old cars. Seems like there is always something. But, worth every minute of work.

1958 delivery
06-24-2007, 04:55 PM
59348SC ,,,,,, The list of " to do s " you have will be a piece of cake compared to pulling the oil pan while still in the car.




I don't know, working under the dash can be a tough one too!

johnnyrod
06-24-2007, 05:15 PM
I made the same mistake on my engine. I have it installed in a 28 ford street rod. So I jacked up the front of the car crawled under droped the pan droped the rear main bearing put the whole thing back together with a little dab of form a gasket and never had no more trouble. Was quite easy to do. Good luck John