View Full Version : It was alive...
airsurf
06-25-2007, 01:13 AM
Finished up the wheel cylinders two nights ago and took my 59 impala 348/250hp out for a drive for the first time in nearly 20 years. Was running better than I remember it. So....today I was running a new wire from the firewall to the starter solenoid along side the old one to see if this would fix the problem I'd been having engaging the starter with the ignition switch. Well, I apparently hooked it up to the wrong terminal and the starter would not disengage until I pulled the battery cable. Switched the wire over then it started, but it was running really rough. Dead cylinder was number 2. Ruled out ignition, then checked compression, only 25psi. Pulled the valve cover and found the intake pushrod bent and broken. Bottom 1.5 inches were still in the motor. Trying to avoid removing the intake I tried to snag the piece with a wire but I bumped it and heard it drop to the bottom of the motor. So I've already removed the intake and verified the piece is not there and the rest of the pushrods look fine. So now it looks like I'll have to drop the oil pan to get the piece.
Now a couple of questions:
Any suggestions to get the piece without completely dropping the pan?
I thought maybe I could snake a wire or cable through the drain and drag it out.
Should I replace all of the pushrods or just the broken one?
I can't imagine that the starter fiasco caused the broken pushrod but it was exactly at this time that it broke. Any chance the valve hit the piston? What else usually causes pushrods to break?
Thanks for the help!
models916
06-25-2007, 08:59 AM
Telescoping pole magnet from the auto parts inserted into the drain plug hole might work. Might have a stuck valve that bent the pushrod.
Bobaloo
06-25-2007, 10:52 AM
Airsurf,
do you have solid or hydraulic lifters?
airsurf
06-25-2007, 12:41 PM
They're hydraulic. Also, I was revving the motor a few times before I realized I had knocked off the vacuum line to the distributer advance so the timing was messed up for a few minutes. This may have been a factor.
models916
06-25-2007, 02:34 PM
Bad or weak spring will let the valve touch the piston when you rev it up and bend the valve or pushrod or both. Timing has nothing to do with it! I would check the valve on that cylinder. Two piece valves don't take much to come apart and blow up the engine.
32witha409
06-25-2007, 05:14 PM
Airsurf,
You are having the same problem I have with the last IH Scout I rescued from a 15 year hiatus in a field. I bent one and broke another. The problem I had was bad gas gumming up the intake guides. I had already drained the turpentine (old gas) from the tanks and put a few gallons of fresh gas in to test run it.
The first run was fine. I wanted to go for a drive the next morning. Upon cranking the engine I heard a loud crack then it started and was missing on one cyl. A compression check showed 35 lbs on #1. The rest were OK. I pulled the valve cover and found the bent pushrod . I replaced it and removed the valve spring and found the valve was tight in the guide. I worked in some oil untill it was free again, Bottoned it back up and started it and drove it around for a few minutes.
The next time I started it the same shing happened but on a different intake.
Thise time I did all valves and noticed that the gas still stunk. If I let a bit of gas evaporate it left a sticky green residue.:doh After I completely cleaned the tank and refilled it the problem went away and no bent valves.:clap
To make an already to long story short I would suggest giving your fuel system a good cleaning and checking all 8 intake valve guides for sticking.
Robert
airsurf
06-26-2007, 03:25 AM
Amazing, sounds like you've experienced the exact same thing. I was just commenting on the bad fuel smell when I took the carb off. Thought I got more of the bad gas out than I probably did. I'll take your advise before I fire it up again. New rod and gaskets are on the way.
32witha409
06-26-2007, 02:10 PM
Airsurf,
The next time you drive your 59' make it a long drive with plenty of long decel time. This will help suck oil into the intake guides and help work out the varnish. Clean oil in the engine if you haven't already changed it. Hope you get back on the road soon.:)
Robert
dq409
06-26-2007, 08:40 PM
Airsurf,
The next time you drive your 59' make it a long drive with plenty of long decel time. This will help suck oil into the intake guides and help work out the varnish. Clean oil in the engine if you haven't already changed it. Hope you get back on the road soon.:)
Robert
If its that sticky I would change the oil, add fresh oil plus sub a quart of trans fluid and then take it on a long drive then change the oil again,,dq
32witha409
06-26-2007, 09:36 PM
If its that sticky I would change the oil, add fresh oil plus sub a quart of trans fluid and then take it on a long drive then change the oil again,,dq
Dq,
Why the trans fluid? Not to be a smart a_ _, it's just a new one for me. I always like to learn new tricks.
If he removes the valve springs, works good oil in to the guides and removes the root cause (bad fuel) it should clear up over a good drive. But the trans fluid can't hurt.
Some guys recommend Marvel Mystery Oil to loosen things up.:p
Robert
dq409
06-26-2007, 10:13 PM
Dq,
Why the trans fluid? Not to be a smart a_ _, it's just a new one for me. I always like to learn new tricks.
If he removes the valve springs, works good oil in to the guides and removes the root cause (bad fuel) it should clear up over a good drive. But the trans fluid can't hurt.
Some guys recommend Marvel Mystery Oil to loosen things up.:p
Robert
Cheaper then Marvel and works just as good.
Ever seen the inside of a trans? Clean as a whistle !!
It will flush your engine nice and clean,,dq
tripower
06-26-2007, 10:21 PM
Cheaper then Marvel and works just as good.
Ever seen the inside of a trans? Clean as a whistle !!
It will flush your engine nice and clean,,dq
dq, Trany fluid... Is that what you use to brush your teeth???:rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl
dq409
06-27-2007, 11:49 AM
dq, Trany fluid... Is that what you use to brush your teeth???:rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl
hardly,,, If I did they (it) would shine !!!:D
bubbletop1961
06-27-2007, 07:35 PM
32witha409
That was a great read.:cool:
32witha409
07-25-2007, 10:16 PM
Hey Airsurf,
Any progress with the 348 pushrods?:dunno
Let us know.:D
Robert
airsurf
08-04-2007, 06:45 PM
I got the parts but in the meantime I had the carb rebuilt and had the intake hot tanked. Repainted the intake and it looked so good I couldn't put it on the dirty engine. So I repainted the engine bay, stripped and repainted generator, powersteering pump, fan, shroud, all bolts, pulleys, brackets, etc. New belts, hoses, clamps. Sure looks good. New battery tray and hold down, engine harness, wire hangers on the way. Ready to put intake back on and then put everything else back in. Will pull the starter to see if I can reverse the contact plate as I've read here. Will let you know when I get it running. Will be gone next week so will probably be about a week and a half from now.
airsurf
08-12-2007, 04:26 AM
Progress:)
Ronnie Russell
08-12-2007, 09:47 AM
airsurf, Nice looking car. Hope you get her running soon.
32witha409
08-12-2007, 11:32 AM
Airsurf,
Looks great. I like that year. Lots of curves!:D :clap
Robert
johnnyrod
08-12-2007, 11:50 AM
Nice ride gotta love it. Back in the day they sure had great lines.Hey let me know when you sell I:brow would gladly take her off your hands. John
airsurf
08-15-2007, 05:47 AM
Completed putting the engine bay back together. Last piece to work on was to pull the starter and clean up the solenoid. Couldn't figure out how to reverse the contact plate as I couldn't find a way to remove the small washer that holds the fiber washer, contact plate and spring down. Anyway, I cleaned the plate and all other contacts and it seems to work unless I crank for a while. Works again after short cool down.
So, I have to fire it up even though its real late. Sounds real bad and won't run. I did notice that at tdc the rotor seems to be a at least one wire ahead of number 1. I check compression on #2, the one that had the broken pushrod. Looks good. I move the wires one position counterclockwise. Better but still won't run. Move the wires one more counterclockwise and now it runs good:p . Will tuneup tomorrow and drain and put a quart of tranny fluid in the oil to loosen things up.
Any idea why the wires need to be 2 positions counterclockwise from what the 58 shop manual says? The distributor has a groove in it so it would only go in two ways. I'm guessing it is the original but I'm not positive.
Thanks, Eric
impalamike.com
08-15-2007, 08:46 AM
Man I love those '59s (I've had three)!! Still got one.
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