fuel in crankcase

[tom-rad]

Hi,
My Dad has a '58 Bel Air 348 4bbl, and he's getting fuel in the crankcase. The car has sat most of it's life (27k miles), has good compression, and runs very well. New fuel pump (just in case), rebuilt Rochester 4GC carb, etc. Sound like rings? Or, intake gaskets?
Also, there is a hesitation when you step down on it. Sometimes, it doesn't hesitate. That's why the carb was rebuilt, but it didn't help. Thanks for any advice.
Tom

[jester]

First , let me say " Welcome to the site.
As for the gas in the oil pan. I think we are going to need more information .
How do you know that there is gas in the oil? Is the car running properly? ( no dead cylinders)
Does the gas leak in while the car sits or when you drive it? Gas sitting in the cylinders can by-pass the rings and enter the pan. If you have changed the pump , check the float level in the carb.
I'm sure others will add their comments and ask more questions.
Have a great day:rofl

[tom-rad]

Dad tells me the oil level slowly rises, and smells like unburned fuel. Oil gets thin, too. The car smokes, but exhaust smells like fuel, not oil. Smells too rich. Plugs get black sooty color.
Thanks for the info & have a nice weekend.
Tom

[DonSSDD]

I agree with check the floats- you are getting too much fuel and it is probably hard to start too? I assume the oil level only rises when driven- not say while parked for a long period of time?

Don

[jester]

I say " send that carb back to the rebuilder." Is it the original or a replacement carb from Auto zone? If it's a holley throw it in the trash.. Just my thoughts:doh

[starsailing1]

Hi Tom. Since your carb was just rebuilt, lets start with checking to see if your choke opens up all the way when engine warms up. If the butterfly does not open up all the way it will cause the engine to run rich and smell of fuel. It will also cause it to Run rough. You can adjust the butterfly on the side of the car by loosening the three screws on the black cap on the right side of the carb. Turn the black cap so that the butterfly is just open(straight up and down)when engine is fully warmed. Tighten screws up. Before you take top of carb off to reset float level, try loosening all the screws on top of the carb so that you just barely jiggle top of carb a little bit. Lightly tap on each side of the carb with a small hammer, then re- tighten screws. Sometimes the float hangs up on the gasket inside the carb when just rebuilt. If that doesnt work take the top off on the carb and re check the float according to spec. Here in Minnesota when warm out, our ethonal gas causes the gas to boil /perculate in the carb on carburated engines. You said engine hesitates, is that when first started then goes away when warm? Or vice versa?

[tom-rad]

The hesitation is more of a dead spot, noticeable when you step down on it to pass, on sudden acceleration. The car kind of chokes, then takes off. Dad rebuilt the carb with the correct kit, but did not adjust the float level. I think he checked the choke, and it's opening ok.
The car is a little hard to start, that is, it starts and dies, you have to start it multiple times when cold. Starts ok when warm.
Thanks again for all of the info.

[models916]

small crack or tear in the fuel pump will send gas to the crankcase.

[Gearhead99]

Sounds like a large quanity of fuel in the oil. I agree with models916 and check the fuel pump.

[starsailing1]

Ok Tom , Lets try to solve the hesitation dead spot problem. Could be several problems. As soon as you depress the accelerator pedal the accelerator pump should begin squirting gas. Check to see that it squirts with the slightest pull back of the linkage. If there is a delay in squirting have dad adjust the accelerator lingage to spec. There is a direction in all carb kits where to bend linkage and spec tolerances for this check. Make sure linkage is not binding anywhere. Put air cleaner back on when restarting in case it backfires after pumping raw gas. Dont want it to backfire and start a carb fire. I just had a poor quality accelerator pump in a kit for my Roch tri [pow carb. Got a better one from the Carb Shop in St Paul MN. If that doesnt solve it, Look for vacuum leak on base gasket or throttle plate shaft. Just had my throttle plate shaft and carb base resleeved to lose the vacuum biiiiigggg leak. If no leak have dad pull the carb apart to make sure he used the correct gaskets when putting back together first time. Some wrong gaskets will cause a vacuum leak as they dont match up correctly. Now for the start up and dies problem. Sounds like the choke needs to be set richer, which will also cause the choke fast idle linkage to engage. Have dad check the specs on this likage also. If all this fails, try borrowing a another carb from someone, and slap it on. See if it is any better. Or get another rebuilt from some place like Late Great Chevy. Good luck Tom. Keep us informed.