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Va348
12-13-2003, 03:21 AM
I have a 61 HT that I"m doing a frame off to ,to make a super driver. Here what I have done so far.

1 409 cu in all alu LS 1 installed. headers made,Box frame so they go tru frame with a S pipe. Muffers installed at rear behind wheels.

2 Step lower ball joint 2 in to lower and can use stock spring and no drop spindles. Also fixes camber gain. { radial tires need this}

Can you tell I"m a old oval track racer.

3 80's Marlo Carlo sway bar, no problem with steering box even use org. a-arm tabs,move them closer to ball joint.

4 Had a hard time on what rear to use, 9 in ford or a 10 bolt using a 10 bolt allready has 3.42 and posi. Heck is not going to have nothing but street tires on it.

5 This one was hard for me. Had a 6 speed already in it work Great drove it about 5 miles before I tore it down.It was slick!
also had a LT1 in it then. I am going with a 200-r 4

6 Has 4 wheel disc brakes.


I know most of you all do not like modified these cars,But I love making parts for them and I drive them a LOT.

I going to DRIVE this one from Va. TO lake Tahoe Hot Aug Nights N RT out S RT back. Once in a life time. NO Trailer

When its done, I need to find the right 62 2 dr sed for my 09 been looking.

Have a Merry Christmas Everyone!

Dale Hope this the right forum or is there a forum for this!

jim_ss409
12-13-2003, 05:04 PM
Sounds like you've used alot of good ideas, well mayby not the automatic. Just kidding, that 200 4R is a nice way to go. That 409 ci LS1 was a nice touch. I also put my mufflers right at the back I think it's a good setup. We need to see some pictures if you can post some.

Va348
12-13-2003, 10:39 PM
Thanks Jims 409

I will try to post some pic. next wk.

On trans it was a hard decision 6 sp was super nice, Clutch was perfect. But after about 4,000 miles on my 55 I was wishing it was auto.


Dale

Tom Kochtanek
12-14-2003, 12:32 AM
Dale:

Sounds pretty nice. If you ar edriving I-70 across Missouri and need a place to stop for the night, consider Columbia, MO (equidistant between St. Louis and Kansas City). I can put you up for the night, show you a neat college town, but you have to put up with all my unfinished X-frame projects, including my factory 1961 Bel Air Sport Coupe with a 348 and three-on-the-tree :) (BTW, it's a frame off that has a way sto go...)

I can drive with you to KC where we can hook up with the members who live in that area.

Cheers,
TomK

JokersBel
12-14-2003, 09:31 PM
sounds like a great plan, yes,, even the 2004R! It sounds like you have the same intentions as do I...long-distance driving! I hope to hit the Hot Rod Power Tour one day with the '59, so that OD gear made lots of sense to me. If I was going to pound gears down the track or just local cruising, i'd definately have done a manual. Most likely the 6 speed as well. (the 700R4 form Bowtie cost as much as a new 6 speed, oh-well) PICS MAN...PICS

Merry XMas
Jim

jim_ss409
12-14-2003, 09:49 PM
Putting a 2" spacer under the lower ball joint sure sounds like a smart idea. I wish I'd have thought of that. I've seen kits to raise the upper joint to improve the suspension geometry but it never occured to me that you could also lower the car that way. Finding a sway bar that worked was an example of good hot rodding. I used a 1" aftermarket sway bar that I had on my 64 and it was a really tight fit with the 605 box.

Ed51
12-14-2003, 10:43 PM
I keep reading what a tight fit aftermarket sway bars are with a 605 box and I was wondering if you made some spacer blocks to go between the frame and the sway bar mounts if that would move the bar down enough to put a REAL sway bar in.

Va348
12-15-2003, 09:39 PM
Tom

May stop by, will most likely not be coming yr. I'm trying to round up few cars to make the trip.have 2 so far. Have frame about do as far as what I want to do to it.


Jim ss409

Its not a spacer on ball joint. What it is, you cut a-arm by bum-stop
weld a plate on [3/16 ] raise ball joint up, I did 2 in weld on and gusset 4 places I will put some pic end of wk. worth a thou words.

ED51

Sway bar is off the down size Marlo Carlos what 78 to about 87
goes toward front car in front str box. ARM are longer and bar is a
1=1/16

Dale

Va348
01-28-2004, 05:49 PM
Looks like I have them too Sm.

Va348
01-28-2004, 06:00 PM
Dale

Va348
01-29-2004, 08:59 AM
Late model Sway Bar

threeimpalas
01-29-2004, 12:08 PM
Do you have the height measurement from the top to the bottom of the stock spindle?

Ed51
01-29-2004, 01:04 PM
When you say the arms are longer on the sway bar,am I correct in assuming that you have to relocate the mounting brackets forward of the stock location? And this bar clears the 605 box and pitman arm? Thanks Ed

Va348
01-29-2004, 03:08 PM
Ed51

You move bar toward Rad just to where Frame is flat. I made 1/4 in plate and welded on frame about 3-1/2 in in front of org. from Cen to cen. Here is a pic of left side.


Threeimpala spindle is 11-5/8 top to bottom.

Dale

jim_ss409
01-29-2004, 11:01 PM
She's looking good Dale.:cheers I was just wondering what the formula was to get to a 409ci LS1. Is it all just extra stroke or is the bore bigger as well. I know those engines can make incredible power, depending on how radical you want to go. I was wondering how much power you are aiming at with this one.

threeimpalas
01-30-2004, 12:01 AM
They use a 4" crank and 4.030" pistons. Actually winds up being 408 ci.

Va348
01-30-2004, 09:19 AM
I had pistons Made 4.035 409.2 Cu.in 4.00 stroke. Had sleeves made. Could have use a 6.o block and just bored 35,But wanted all Alu. Those Ls1 heads are unreal Just a little touch up and you can get 300 cfm. I'am using the 6.0 Truck head same as the Z06 except Camber about 5 cc Bigger. I want to put my W eng in a 62 sedan.This 61 I want to drive across the USA. I put 10,000 Miles on my 55 in 1 yr. I drive them a lot.So this 61 going to have Air and all goodes. I'am trying to trade a 66 nova with C-4 sup under it now for a 62. If I don't I will get rid of this summer. 61 had all SS badges and all but I could not prove it. Had been change to much. They are all old looking. Nuts on back side look like side molding. If anything made have been dealer installed.

Dale

Tom Kochtanek
02-25-2004, 12:49 AM
Dale:

Any pics of the 1961? Sounds interesting. I've always thought that body style combines the best of the 50s with some unique designs pointing to the future (before the sides got big and slabbed).

What are you looking for in the 1962 post? I have one but it's kinda rough and in primer. Amateur restoration started, but not a very good job. I bought it for parts (front fenders, trunk, and side trim pieces) but do not have the heart to dismantle it. Thought it might make a nice drag car :)

Best,
TomK

Va348
02-25-2004, 10:17 PM
Just want one that I can make a drag car out of. About 6 of us around here want to do a race about 1 time a month. Guy up the
Road that I do work.Has convert over from GM to dodge.He has more money than good sence tho.

Anyway He going use a hemi, He going to buy Ford, Pontiac.

Man he has a Big building Full of Chry Parts and Cars. New Carbs. still in Boxs for the 2-4 hemi's. He must have 15 Hemi's I have 3 blocks at my shop now. Old Sox & Martins,Petty's You would believe the parts. 3 bins high 3 side of shop.

Anyway I'm going to blow is S*** away with a W. We put a Cu in Limit of 450.cu. in. Cast iron heads.

We just want to play.

Dale

Va348
09-30-2004, 01:42 PM
Work I have done in last 2 months.

Took all paint off with paint remover (KWIK marine paint and Varnish remover) It was so easy Brush it on one way, let set use a blade on some of it or used steel wool dip in remover.Wash with Lac. thinner,New metal, Door jams, And fire wall is hard to believe how shining it is and clean!


Do you'all take the old lead out too? Its been recommend that I need to take it out. Its cracked on the Top post anyway.


Dale

threeimpalas
09-30-2004, 01:52 PM
I would take any lead out that looks like it's cracked or separating and replace with new lead (if you have the skill) or with a fiberglass reinforced plastic filler covered with skim coat of lighter weight filler.

Va348
09-30-2004, 01:57 PM
Do I need to use the long strand or just the reg fiberglass, I have all-metal on hand allso.

Thanks Dale

threeimpalas
09-30-2004, 07:04 PM
We use a product called Everglass (similarly, Duraglass), a very short strand fiberglass based filler, as a base to help block moisture and give strength to the repair, and then use a filler such as Rage Gold on top of that to help get a smoother finish easier. Both products are Evercoat brand and should be available at finer auto-body supply stores. NAPA might carry such products, but I can't say for sure if they do or not.

bobs409
10-01-2004, 06:50 AM
Those areas are a problem. In most cases, it will crack again especially if you use any type of filler instead of lead. I've never used the lead myself but I believe Eastwood company does sell it.

They showed it being used on the '56 on American Hot Rod and it didn't look too complicated. It's easy to shape as it's soft. (I would file it to shape)

Just something to consider...

threeimpalas
10-01-2004, 11:45 PM
Lead filler is just as prone to cracking as plastic fillers if proper preperation isn't completed. The problem with lead is that it requires the use of a flame, which could lead to warping of the substrate sheetmetal if not done properly. Plastic fillers avoid this risk and are just as viable of a solution as lead.

pjdaoust
01-16-2005, 05:59 PM
I see in your post on 348-409 forum about using a 80's Monte sway bar on an X-framed Impala.

I have a 63 Impala which has the 605 steering box on it and with the stock sway bar (5/8") it displays lots of under steer and nervous steering actually the steering really occillates between over and understeer on a right hand curve.

All this was probably there all the while after a 1" rear stabilizer was installed but the problem was magnified when I added the 605 steering box thereby refining the feel and unmasking this occillating steering problem.

My plan was to add a larger (1") front sway bar to calm down the old girl but after reading about all the fit problems others have encountered I decided to find a better way. That's when I found your post about using a Monte sway bar.

Can you give some more detail about how you went about this transplant ?

My e-mail address is pjdaoust@mindspring.com. Either post here or email me. Thanks.

Paul J. Daoust

dq409
01-16-2005, 08:08 PM
Post it so we all can know about them,,dq

Va348
01-17-2005, 10:13 AM
Need Two 2 by 4 1/4 steel plates too weld to frame. Drill them for 3/8 counter
sunk bolts, Tack weld them on Top. Studs will point down for Bar mt.

The center of Bar, will Mount 2 in. back toward motor from center of back Bumper bolt hole.

The A - Arm mount needs to move to 12 1/2 in. from center of bushing bolt on
A-arm.( It's not hard to get off) Will need to work little to get fit and weld back on

It may be better to bolt it back on if arms are on Car. Heat may or may hurt it with
Coil spring in there.

You need to use your best judgement on All this. Disclaimer


Hope it helps.

Dale

jester
01-17-2005, 01:29 PM
Need Two 2 by 4 1/4 steel plates too weld to frame. Drill them for 3/8 counter
sunk bolts, Tack weld them on Top. Studs will point down for Bar mt.

The center of Bar, will Mount 2 in. back toward motor from center of back Bumper bolt hole.

The A - Arm mount needs to move to 12 1/2 in. from center of bushing bolt on
A-arm.( It's not hard to get off) Will need to work little to get fit and weld back on

It may be better to bolt it back on if arms are on Car. Heat may or may hurt it with
Coil spring in there.

You need to use your best judgement on All this. Disclaimer


Hope it helps.

Dale A picture is worth a thousand words. You have any pics of the retrofit?

Va348
01-17-2005, 02:26 PM
Pic are allready here on update on 61 Has one on sway,I just looked to make sure. There is right many pic, you should get Idea. I took all measurment off frame this morning.




Dale

droptop62ss
02-24-2005, 07:24 PM
Dale,
I was wondering what size tires you are going to run on the front
of your . Do you think that the sway bar might get in the way of a
17" wheel ?

Thanks
Andy

Va348
02-27-2005, 07:49 PM
Hi Andy

I am not sure,I will measure that monday and get back to you Mon. night.Thats
what I planing on using. I think I have ck before, but let me make sure.

You need to see the dash in it now 2000 Camaro gauges,radio, heat & temp
controls, console, shifter. 2004 monte Carlo seats. Looks like it came from factory.

Dale

jim_ss409
02-27-2005, 08:33 PM
Sounds like it's coming right along Dale. :cheers We'd love to see some pictures of that interior if you get a chance to post some.

Va348
02-28-2005, 11:01 AM
Andy

Tire will hit Bar 1/2 before it hit frame, Bar has a cruve in starting at Tie rods going toward wheel, Goes straight back with frame untill tie rod.


Jim ss409

I will post some pic. Need to have dev. and put on disc. Car is not finish still need
to paint outside.

Everbody that Looks at the dash, Loves it! Really does look like it was made for it.
150 mph speed 7000 rpm tach all gauges.

Dale

droptop62ss
02-28-2005, 01:01 PM
Hey Dale ,
Can't wait to see the picture sof the dash .I've been struggling to come up with
something different for the gauges in my car . I emailed Rad Rides about making me up a dash but when they building the cars that they build they weren't intrested !
But I know if I gave them the car and a blank check it wouldn't be a problem !
Thanks for sharing your ideas with us I know a few of us will be using some of them!


Andy