Paint shop pics

[Tom Kochtanek]

Just a quick pic taken this Wednesday afternoon while visiting the paint shop to drop of some more stuff. The roof and right rear quarter have been stripped and now have several coats of primer. Still working on the left side, not yet stripped. Front cowl is beginning to see some action, with removal of all that "dum-dum" or whatever that nasty seam sealer they used was called :)

Enjoy!

TomK

[Tom Kochtanek]

Here's one fender along with the doors and hood stripped, now in several coats of primer. Wrench, this is the color you might be looking at to protect your baby from the elements!

Enjoy,
TomK

[fourspeed409]

Tom
Please slow down on the paint work. You are making me look lazy. I don't even have the etch prime on mine yet.:D

[tmracing62]

With a start like that, it's going to turn out great. Really looks good.

[dq409]

Originally posted by fourspeed409
Tom
Please slow down on the paint work. You are making me look lazy. I don't even have the etch prime on mine yet.:D

NO TOM !!! Speed it up !!! You can do mine next !!!:D :D :D

[348NUT]

Can't wait to see it at KC!:) Mine won't look half as good. Just don't have the time :cry But flat black will get me there!:D NUT

[bobs409]

Where's all the rot holes and panel replacing? No wonder it's going fast! :D

Wish mine only needed paint. :)

BTW, what will be used to replace that seam sealer? I used fast-n-firm on mine in some places but the paint didn't stick to it for long. :(

[Tom Kochtanek]

Bob, you've asked a good question! First we cleaned out all those spots with the factory "dum-dum". Next (after prepping) we will prime and seal all those seams with 2K primer, then paint Ermine White. After that, I will experiment with various seam selaers. Was thinking of trying 3M's product, but maybe that's what Bob was referring to. I know I can do a better job than they did at the factory, but I am not in a production line and can spend a bit more time on it :)

All this stuff gets covered up in the corners anyway, and I plan on keeping the seam sealer off the visible parts of the front cowl. I know it's not stock that way, but that stuff just looks awful over a nice paint job. I want the engine bay to look spotless!

Good news is that there is ABSOLUTELY no rust, nor signs of rust ANYWHERE in the car. It does make things easier :) But it still takes a LOT OF TIME !!! There are tons of dings and scratches and small dents that have required a bit of tapping out (and pounding out as well!). Those trim pieces on the '62 don't stop parking lot dings at all ...

Am still toying with whether to allow overspray on parts of the underneath, like it was done at the factory. I have the underneath totally detailed, red oxide primer, chassis black X frame, and so forth. After painting White, I may go back under there and see how it looks, then decide whether to leave it with overspray, or to detail the edges. I like clean lines.

And this '62SS has real clean lines :) :) :)

Cheers,
TomK

[bobs409]

No rust?!? Don't know what that is Tom. :p She's gonna be real nice! Nothing like those body/paint pics to get the juices flowing. Too bad it's 5 degrees outside!!! :mad:

It won't be long until your bolting her back together. That's the part I like the most. ;)

[Rockfish39]

Tom,
The photos that you have posted show that you are 'totally-into" a restoration on that '62... I bet it's going to look great when you're done. Having gone this route on a '64 Vette, I know what you're into.

You mentioned that the underside was already shot in red-oxide... I have a couple of questions about what you've done

1) did the body shop put the main-shell on a body rotiserie before painting the underside?

2) what method was used to strip the main-shell?? Chemical immersion, media-blast , or abrasive paper???

3) You also mentioned that the "X" frame was already done in black. Is the finished frame under the car now??? and if it is, how are they keeping the overspray off it ???

Id like to keep tabs on your restoration as it progresses, keep the photos coming.

Rockfish:cool:

[Tom Kochtanek]

Thanks for all your support. This stuff really takes a long time to do it right. Thank goodness it's not September yet :)

Rockfish asked a few Q's about the underside, so here goes.

Recall that this was a one-owner auto, residing in California all it's life until this past year or so (since I acquired her). She is solid as a rock and when you put her up on a lift you can still see all the original primer and the factory Acrylic Lacquer overspray. (well, until I redid it :) )

1. Underneath the car, you could see that the pans were red primer from the factory. Some sections were tarred (I assume at the factory, and it looks as if this was done after priming, possibly as a sound deadener?) That only occurs in the tunnel near the transmission and along the left side pan, under the driver's seat. Interesting...

My solution: I had thought of leaving it as it was (after degreasing and scrubbing the surface clean). Looked prety good. One day I had the body up slightly off the frame (but not on a rotisserie) to put in new body mounts and I thought "what the heck" and went ahead and scuffed the underside and shot red oxide enamel over the prepared surface. Did it underneath while car was up on a lift -- real fun! My main interest was preservation not "correctness" as in "factory correct". This car will be driven on a near daily basis once completed. Technically it's not a frame-off restoration (unless you count 2-4 inches as being "off"...).

2. Stripping the shell and parts. You are not going to believe this but we're doing it by hand. That's right, BY HAND SANDING. I'm sharing the duties with a young retired guy (50ish and former police officer) who has the paint booth. It's actually going quite well (sorry Tripower Roy!) since it's only a single layer of factory acrylic lacquer and after 42 years she's real thin... Some sections were previously reprainted (like that right rear quarter) after some mild parking lot dings, so I attacked those first (turned out good, very little filler, was able to tap out a few spots that had been filled 20+ years ago). Just to let you know, I started on the roof last Friday and had it in primer by Sunday night. Now I'm letting it "harden" for 4-7 days (and resting up!).

3. Chassis black on the X-frame. The frame was in perfect condition. I degreased it, scuffed it up, then used Marine Clean and Metal Prep (another degreaser and an etcher with a phosphate cut to it -- good teeth for new paint), then covered the entire frame with POR-15 using a brush -- yes, a brush. Smoothes out real good, leaving a tough as nails protective coat. Over that I applied a single coat of Chassis Black (made by the same folks to go over their POR base), also using a brush. Looks great, can't tell from 12 inches that it was brushed, it flows together real well (my opinion).

I still need to remove the gas tank and detail it correctly (it's a steel piece, unpainted, and looks kinda like a silver cadmium -- if someone knew the correct color that would be helpful :) ).

I figure to paint the car and see what get overspray then see how well that looks. Might go back and "edge" that red oxide primer under the pans, will make sure the frame is still chassis black, etc.

I'm trying to get this pretty close to factory correct, but am not being toooo anal about it, as we're not going for points here, we're thinking quality driver and occasional local fund raiser-type shows. Just fun with a clean detailed car. Hope it shows OK, but more interested in puttering around (OK, zipping around) in it when finished. Wish me luck. I saw TomO's 1963 Impala he did himself and he set the bar pretty high in my eyes :)

Cheers,
TomK

[Tom Kochtanek]

You know, you find the darndest things underneath the seats and carpet of a well-used automobile. I had taken most of the interior out about a month ago, except for the driver's seat and the carpet, which I removed about a week ago.

Here's a sampling of the sorts of things I found underneath the carpet, of all places. Can you identify these items? Remember, this is a CA car, owned by a little old lady who ordered the car new in 1962 at the age of 32. I'm guessing she was a fun gal :)

Wish they all could be Califormia girls :)

Cheers,
TomK

[Rockfish39]

Originally posted by Tom Kochtanek
Stripping the shell and parts. You are not going to believe this but we're doing it by hand. That's right, BY HAND SANDING....

....Chassis black on the X-frame. The frame was in perfect condition. I degreased it, scuffed it up, then used Marine Clean and Metal Prep (another degreaser and an etcher with a phosphate cut to it -- good teeth for new paint), then covered the entire frame with POR-15 using a brush -- yes, a brush. Smoothes out real good, leaving a tough as nails protective coat. Over that I applied a single coat of Chassis Black (made by the same folks to go over their POR base), also using a brush. Looks great, can't tell from 12 inches that it was brushed, it flows together real well (my opinion).

..... I still need to remove the gas tank and detail it correctly (it's a steel piece, unpainted, and looks kinda like a silver cadmium -- if someone knew the correct color that would be helpful :) ).


Tom, Thanks for the detailed information. Your description is very nearly a duplication of the same work that I did on my '64 Vette. Except, that I had my frame powder coated... Since POR-15 works great on bare Fiberglass, I did my floors with it.

One neat trick that I found for POR-15 and Chassis Coat is to use an ultra fine "FOAM" roller in lieu of a brush. They are about 3.5 inches long and about 1.0 inches in diameter and can be purchased at any Home Depot Store. Typically they are used for wood stain or fine wood trim detailing. I tried an ultra-fine foam roller with POR and I swear it looked just as smooth as could be, no lap marks or brush strokes. The Chassis Coat done overtop of it flow out so nicely that, even upon close inspection, it looked like it was shot out from a gun. No kidding!

As for your gas tank. The correct finish on it more like a plating than a paint. It originally was dipped "tinned" with a zinc-rich lead alloy metal, it looks like Type-1 Cadium, but it isnt.

Now try out this trick, since you like Restomotive products. After hot-tanking the tank, and cleaning it with Marine=Kleen, roll out POR-15 on it. While you are waiting for it to 'tack-up' Mix a batch of POR-15 SILVER 95% with Chassis Coat Black 5%. Stir with a paint stir stick. What you end up with, when you roll this out on your tank, is a correct looking "hammer-tone" silver finish with a nice semi-gloss to it. This works slightly against conventional wisdom as the Chassis Coat does not turn the Silver a dark gray. It actually looks like black hammertone in the silver. BIG DIFFERENCE! When dry, the finished product is nearly indistinguishable from the "tin" BTW. For those unfamiliar with Restomotive Laboratories Products, You gotta use latex gloves with this stuff. IT WILL NOT COME OFF YOUR HANDS!!!!!!!!!!!

Im sharing this technique with you as I have done this on a couple of '57 Cadillac gas tanks. You talk about working on a car with no replacement parts!!!!! IT worked great. and wont rust. IF you want detail photos of mine, email me, Ill have to send you the photos.

I hope the NOBODY gets offended here, but there really is a whole lot more to restoring a car than simply rebuilding-modifying engines, as Im certain that all of you who have done so, already know. Engines are the easy and perhaps the funnest part, in my opinion. Having to undo shoddy craftsmanship in bodywork, and going through about a mile of welding rod, now THAT SUCKS!!!!

I think that this forum is great place to share the neat tricks that we all have picked up over the years from doing this type or work. It doesnt matter if you do it for a living or are a weekend warrior, like me. I read a very interesting PAPER written by Randy, of Randy's Ring and Pinion. Now here is a guy that does rears for a living, sharing his tricks-of-the-trade so that people, like me, can duplicate the techniques without damaging expensive parts. Did his business decrease??? Id say he has more loyal customers now than any of his competition do.

It sure is alot more constructive than fighting with one another is.
Wouldnt you say????

Have a great day !!!!
Rockfish :cool:

[Tom Kochtanek]

Rockfish, neat idea to mix those two together -- I might have to try that as an experiment first. I suspect there are tricks to mixing the products (I know it's stirred, not shaken). I just to happen to have some silver and some semi-gloss black POR-15 left over from a recent task :)

Wold you use POR-15 on a stripped and properly cleaned oil pan for the 409 (before using a final color)? Might try the roller on that one, as that's what I've been cleaning on lately...

Cheers,
TomK

[TomO]

TomK - Thanks for the thumbs up on my 63'. I get a great deal of satisfaction from doing things myself. I guess it is the challenge. The fact that this forum is full of guys who share the same car mentality is what keeps me comming back for more. There is no better teacher than one who has "been there and done that" and is willing to share learnings in a positive manner.

I cant wait to see the finish product. I will be in 409 envy.


TomO

[09pwrd55]

Originally posted by Rockfish39
Tom, Thanks for the detailed information. Your description is very nearly a duplication of the same work that I did on my '64 Vette. Except, that I had my frame powder coated... Since POR-15 works great on bare Fiberglass, I did my floors with it.

One neat trick that I found for POR-15 and Chassis Coat is to use an ultra fine "FOAM" roller in lieu of a brush. They are about 3.5 inches long and about 1.0 inches in diameter and can be purchased at any Home Depot Store. Typically they are used for wood stain or fine wood trim detailing. I tried an ultra-fine foam roller with POR and I swear it looked just as smooth as could be, no lap marks or brush strokes. The Chassis Coat done overtop of it flow out so nicely that, even upon close inspection, it looked like it was shot out from a gun. No kidding!

As for your gas tank. The correct finish on it more like a plating than a paint. It originally was dipped "tinned" with a zinc-rich lead alloy metal, it looks like Type-1 Cadium, but it isnt.

Now try out this trick, since you like Restomotive products. After hot-tanking the tank, and cleaning it with Marine=Kleen, roll out POR-15 on it. While you are waiting for it to 'tack-up' Mix a batch of POR-15 SILVER 95% with Chassis Coat Black 5%. Stir with a paint stir stick. What you end up with, when you roll this out on your tank, is a correct looking "hammer-tone" silver finish with a nice semi-gloss to it. This works slightly against conventional wisdom as the Chassis Coat does not turn the Silver a dark gray. It actually looks like black hammertone in the silver. BIG DIFFERENCE! When dry, the finished product is nearly indistinguishable from the "tin" BTW. For those unfamiliar with Restomotive Laboratories Products, You gotta use latex gloves with this stuff. IT WILL NOT COME OFF YOUR HANDS!!!!!!!!!!!

Im sharing this technique with you as I have done this on a couple of '57 Cadillac gas tanks. You talk about working on a car with no replacement parts!!!!! IT worked great. and wont rust. IF you want detail photos of mine, email me, Ill have to send you the photos.

I hope the NOBODY gets offended here, but there really is a whole lot more to restoring a car than simply rebuilding-modifying engines, as Im certain that all of you who have done so, already know. Engines are the easy and perhaps the funnest part, in my opinion. Having to undo shoddy craftsmanship in bodywork, and going through about a mile of welding rod, now THAT SUCKS!!!!

I think that this forum is great place to share the neat tricks that we all have picked up over the years from doing this type or work. It doesnt matter if you do it for a living or are a weekend warrior, like me. I read a very interesting PAPER written by Randy, of Randy's Ring and Pinion. Now here is a guy that does rears for a living, sharing his tricks-of-the-trade so that people, like me, can duplicate the techniques without damaging expensive parts. Did his business decrease??? Id say he has more loyal customers now than any of his competition do.

It sure is alot more constructive than fighting with one another is.
Wouldnt you say????

Have a great day !!!!
Rockfish :cool:

Rock; Your Right On ! there isnt anybody here that cant learn something from someone else.
When you know everything about a subject,its time to get a new subject.

Tom; Rust free sheet metal! man we can only fantasize about that up here.

Thanks for sharing!!!!!!!!!

09PWR

[threeimpalas]

What year(s) are those quarters? The quarters could be of the silver core variety if they're old enough.

[tmracing62]

Rock,

".... sharing his tricks-of-the-trade so that people, like me, can duplicate the techniques without damaging expensive parts."

From my forever unfinished website FAQ page:

"Q: Why are they so expensive? (The most FAFAQ)

Because they are so expensive to build. It’s a low demand, nearly custom product that can’t take advantage of the benefits of large production runs.

Sometimes people believe they can build a comparable air cleaner themselves for less money. By all means, please go ahead and do so. You are welcome to use any of the information on this website or get in touch if you need help."

I really try to help them out and help them design for completely different applications if they need that. I even sent one guy the blueprints. Had a famous race car company call and be kind of sneaky trying to scope it out, but they became great customers.

Giving knowledgable help freely is good business, but mostly it's educational. Of course there are proprietary things, but once somebody tries to build one of my products, they understand why it costs what it costs and they understand better what it takes. Then when they get one, they really appreciate what they have and take care of it. (And sooner than later, they just buy one.) ;) :D

Most of what we learn is because somebody told us something about it and only about 10% is discovery on our own. I've learned so much from this one thread that I didn't know and there's lots more important things I've gotten from the forum over the last almost two years. Thanks guys. The only way to pay it back is to do the same for someone else.

- Michael

[Tom Kochtanek]

I like Michael's quip about cost, it makes me feel better about throwing $$$ in the hole :)

I also liked the movie "Pay it Forward" and I am glad that so many of you are planting these seeds for the future. Think about it!

Some of us are in fact infecting our youth with our experience and enthusiasm :)

Cheers,
TomK