Self adj. brakes

[Gus68]

Hey Guys!!! Some one told me once that NAPA or the other parts stores have kits to put self adjusting brakes on the front of my 62 Bel Air, is this true??? It would be cool cause I have adjusted mine a few times and it's getting old!!!! Also I have converted to a manual duel res. master cyl. using the parts off of a 68 Impala. I used the 68 master and proportioning valve and split the lines to the front and to the rear, after all of this the brakes seemed crappy, I had to pump them as I came up to a stop sign, so I replaced the master with a new one from NAPA, but it didn't make any difference, I have bled the crap out of them, there is no leaks anywhere, if I pump them once or twice the brakes are great its just that first push on the peddle that sucks. What are you guys running for brakes??? Any sugggestions??? thanks!!

[walkerheaders]

see if the 63-64 backing plates are the same as 62 if so, switch the hardware and whatever else involved for the self-adjusting setup. most guys have some of that stuff sitting around. i think i do.

[SteveD409]

If you want new stuff it's available from your local parts house for around $15 a wheel, I think that's what I paid last time.

Whoops, I guess that's what you were asking--yeah. it is available!

SteveD

[CarlK60]

Hi Gus, I just did the manual dual res, w/proportioning valve swap off a 68 Imp onto my 60 4 door. I havnt driven it much yet, also need to do more bleeding, so far they arent that good, but now you have me scared that they wont work good anyway. :cuss Maybe I shoulda made room for that power booster under the 60s hood.... If I didnt replace it with new this spring, it was replaced last spring on the brakes, so its all new. Let me know if ya get them workin good.... :confused:

[Bungy]

Gus, As far as having to pump your brakes, I would say that they need to be adjusted farther out. Does your new master cylinder have a bleeder or two on it? If so this may need to be bleed. Remember, When bleeding the brakes, be sure to start with the wheel farthest from the master cylinder and work closer to it. My 2 cents.

[Bungy]

Gus, one more thing I forgot to mention. Make sure the rod going into the master cylinder is not pushing into it when you bolt it on. (possibly rod too long for 68 master cylinder) Pull on your brake pedal and see if it will move back towards the seat. Does this make sense?

[Gus68]

Hey guys!!!! Thanks for all the responses!! I have adjusted the length of the push rod on the master, It had some play in it before it would move the piston in the master, so I adjusted it so there was no play and the piston moved as soon as the peddel was pushed. That seemd to help a little but still not the best, so then I adjusted the front brakes up so there was a decent amount of drag on the drums, that seemed to help more but you still have to pump the brakes before they work real good. I do not belive the master is bad because if I pump it once then again and hold it hard, it does not sink to the floor. Also I first used the master off of the 68 Impala, then the one off of my 68 Chevelle, and finally one from NAPA, same every time. I recently converted my Chevelle from manual drums to MANUAL disks in front, my chevelle stoped WAY better with the drums than my 62 with the manual drums. SOOOOO, I'm thinking it has something to do with the shoe adjustment or the 68 proportioning valve, But what do I know. Any Ideas???

[Bungy]

Are you using the proportioning valve from the 68? If so, I would discard it and run a line straight from the master cylinder to the front brakes and use an adjustable proportioning valve in the rear line. When I converted my Chevelle to discs I used all the parts from a 79 Camaro. Didn't work too well. I didn't have to pump but had to push really hard. I then discarded the valve and used an adjustable one in the rear line sovlede my problems. I also have an adjustable one the rear on my 53 (with discs in front) and a direct line to the front and it works perfect. That 68 valve was designed for the weight and brake bias of a 68. Bungy

[CarlK60]

Bungy, let me see if I got this right, your saying maybe the 68 rod is too long meaning the 60 rod wont push the piston all the way in? i was kinda wondering this but never looked into it. I am using the stock proportioning valve off the 68 which had power drum brakes (will that make a difference?) A 68 Impala should be around the same weight as a 60 Impala (3500+lbs) and I figured the brakes would be about the same. Thats why I figured it would be ok to use it. I just spent a crap load of time getting this setup put together, and id rather not tear it apart and redo it! :cuss The car stopped as good as a sigle res/manual/drums would before, why did I have to fix it. :rolleyes: If it aint broke dont fix it! Ill have to check into the rod thing and get bleeding/adjusting again and see how it comes out, thanks for the help Bungy. :D Will let ya know how it pans out.

[SteveD409]

I just added metallic shoes and a power booster. My system works GREAT!;)

SteveD

[6064ELNO]

Have you tried replacing your break lines. If they are old they may be expanding when you press the break pedal initially then they will feal fine. it could be worth the money to install braided lines. Just a thought something i read in a mag.

[jester]

Originally posted by Gus68
Hey Guys!!! Some one told me once that NAPA or the other parts stores have kits to put self adjusting brakes on the front of my 62 Bel Air, is this true??? It would be cool cause I have adjusted mine a few times and it's getting old!!!! Also I have converted to a manual duel res. master cyl. using the parts off of a 68 Impala. I used the 68 master and proportioning valve and split the lines to the front and to the rear, after all of this the brakes seemed crappy, I had to pump them as I came up to a stop sign, so I replaced the master with a new one from NAPA, but it didn't make any difference, I have bled the crap out of them, there is no leaks anywhere, if I pump them once or twice the brakes are great its just that first push on the peddle that sucks. What are you guys running for brakes??? Any sugggestions??? thanks!!

You didn't say whether you have power booster or not but it sounds like you need to use a master with more volume (1 1/8th barrel) Also check to see that you have the proper leverage applied at the pedal and push rod, as for adding self adjusters, well, they worked just fine for 40 or so years . I can't see the problem . Try that bigger barrel master to push more fluid.
Good luck

[Gus68]

Hey Guys!!! Thanks for all the responces!!! I didn't mension before, I my car origionally had manual single resivore master and now I have a manual duel resivore master off of the 68. Jester, if I decide to go with a 1 1/8 bore master, what application should I ask for at the parts store??? I think I might try the bigger master and then add the self adjusting brakes.

[jester]

Originally posted by Gus68
Hey Guys!!! Thanks for all the responces!!! I didn't mension before, I my car origionally had manual single resivore master and now I have a manual duel resivore master off of the 68. Jester, if I decide to go with a 1 1/8 bore master, what application should I ask for at the parts store??? I think I might try the bigger master and then add the self adjusting brakes.

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