Rod bolt clearance

[Tom Kochtanek]

I thought I had this all figured out before I set the crank in, but I guess I just learned a valuable lesson: check and double check ALL the holes for rod bolt clearance before starting the assembly!

This being my first time, I look forward to removing the pistons (just numbers 1,2,7 and 8) and crank so I can relieve the bore to allow the proper rod bolt clearance :). It's just two of the holes, but I still need to start all over and reclean everything up after taking it apart and grinding on the bore. That is how to do it , correct? You don't grind on the rod bolts -- that sounds wrong.

I'm also having trouble locating the proper oil pump driveshaft, if someone knows of a good source.

It's been a swell afternoon and early evening :)

Cheers,
TomK

[CDNpontiac409guy]

Tom, Definitely one of the rules of assembling a stroker....
"TRIAL ASSEMBLY" !!!!!
No rings. Just pistons and rods ( and cam in place ). Make sure it spins freely, and check all those tight spots.

But hey, we ALL understand being anxious !:cheers

[oil4kids]

Tom

the oil pump shaft is standard big block chevy but i would not use the nylon connector. Get a moroso with the metal collar.

[SSpev]

DON"T GRIND THE BOLTS!!!!!

[Tom Kochtanek]

Guys:

Thanks for the advise! Apart she comes, to be relieved by grinding on the bottoms of the bores, and trust me -- not the rod bolts!

Before we take her apart I want to take some more measurements and make sure each corner of the block shares the same ".031 inches of piston out of the block at TDC" situation.

That's the concern of the other thread I started Wednesday night upon return from the shop where we are assembling the engine. Going back tonight after work :).

Thanks for wrapping this one up for me! Another big hit for asynchronous collaborative problem solving in a shared networking environment (fixing stuff over the Web) :) :) :)

Cheers!
TomK