replacing trunk lock cylinder

[tmracing62]

All the lock cylinders on the car were worn out and the doors didn't work at all. Got a whole new set - doors, trunk, ignition and glovebox - from Phil Reed. The doors were a breeze. Went to do the trunk and it is a little mysterious to me. Before I bend/break/otherwise wreck something, does anyone know the correct removal procedure? It looks like the retaining blade should slide down, but it sure doesn't want to do that. Help.

Michael

[bobs409]

Michael,

That retainer pulls down so the lock cylinder can go through the large opening. Should be a small screw that has to be removed first. Once lined up with the large opening, pull out the cylinder. Then you can remove the retainer. Sometimes they are snug and a bit of persuasion from a pliers or screwdriver helps.

[tmracing62]

Bob -

Not ignoring your advice. Haven't had time to do much and get back to it. Thanks for the tip.

[real61ss]

It's just stuck, probably never been off before. Sometimes you have to use a pair of pliers

[Tom Kochtanek]

Michael, I wish my two door locks went on as easy as you stated yours did! When I inserted my old locks in the newly painted door, the right side just didn't fit well (turns out the same for the left) with all that new paint :)

It slides in OK (a bit of a whack with a rubber mallet helped) but I can't get both sides of the clip on the posts. I can get one, but not both. I was wondering if it might be the ruber gaskets and the new paint creating a "clearance" issue (Boy, I've been through enough of that with my pistoms!). I'm done smacking the tumblers from the outside, don't want to put a dent in that freshly painted door panel :)

Any suggestions? I was thinking of slicing off a bit of the gasket surfaceto see if that might help (assuming that can be done)...

Can you tell I am in "assembly mode"?

Cheers,
TomK

[bobs409]

Tom,

I would file off a small amount from the 2 ears that stick out of the lock assembly where the clip goes against. These can be seen in the pic above.

Maybe your new paint is thicker making for a tighter fit.

You could test fit/file on a junker cylinder if you have one first just to try out my idea. If not, file only a little at a time, you don't want it too loose.


*Not responsible for any damages. :D

[Tom Kochtanek]

Bob, good suggestion :)

Tha's the approach I will take. File a bit off that top ear, reinsert for fit, then file some more if needed. Patience, patience, my newest virtue, is definitely required in this re-assembly mode!

Cheers,
TomK

[tmracing62]

Tom -

The lockset I got from Phil had plastic gaskets 0.033" thick, but is incompressible. It sounds like the rubber is too thick. I think you got it right that the paint is thicker, if even by a few thousandths, and that would make it a tough if not impossible to clear.

I've had luck making squirmy material thinner by laying a piece of duct tape sticky side up and taping it down leaving the sticky part showing just enough to press the object down and no more than that. Then put the gasket on the sticky part and use a sanding block, not your hands, to sand it thinner.

[Tom Kochtanek]

Michael, that sounds like a good first step. Gaskets are cheaper than lock sets :)

Think I'll explore the options here and see where that leads me. If my job was to be on an assembly line, I would be fired for sure :) But who's watching the clock?

Cheers,
TomK