tmracing62
07-22-2004, 02:57 AM
My car hasn't had a lot of trouble with cooling except when I didn't switch on the fans in time. Usually ran at 180 and would cool down quickly. The exception was when the trans cooler was still in front of the radiator and standing it off an inch improved cooling greatly. I drove the car for the first time in a few weeks and it was 97 degrees out while romping down the freeway. It would have been dangerous to pull over when the temp hit 220 so it got up to 230 just as I found a place to park.
The changes I was testing were the trans cooler was moved completely out of the engine compartment and toward the back, a 160 degree thermostat (was 180) with bypass holes was installed, carb insulators installed and fuel lines rerouted and pressure regulator relocated to a cooler place. Ran the valves, changed oil, installed new plugs and all the usual. It runs rich on purpose. Also purged the cooling system of air before test.
And it still hit 230. I've driven for 40 minutes in 90 degree weather and not gotten above 185. Checked timing and it's right on at 36 degrees where it has always been. So ........ either the slightly higher temperature outside pushed it past it's ability to cool or the thermostat has changed (increased) the flow. Went to 160 to start flow sooner and drilled bypass holes so it would heat up quicker which it did, but maybe now too much water flows and doesn't stay in the engine or radiator long enough.
I've had a lot to say on a few threads about managing overheating. But facts are facts and this time I did something wrong apparently. It'll be interesting to figure it out. In the meantime, if anyone has considered my idea of drilling bypass holes (which has worked for me several times before) if you don't have a bypass already, you might wait until I figure this out.
And of course it vapor locked. I carry cool packs - you break them so the chemicals mix - and that fixed that, but I was parked for over an hour. Sitting with a broken hot rod makes me feel like a squirrel sitting in the middle of 1000 Dobermans. Not a fun day.
The changes I was testing were the trans cooler was moved completely out of the engine compartment and toward the back, a 160 degree thermostat (was 180) with bypass holes was installed, carb insulators installed and fuel lines rerouted and pressure regulator relocated to a cooler place. Ran the valves, changed oil, installed new plugs and all the usual. It runs rich on purpose. Also purged the cooling system of air before test.
And it still hit 230. I've driven for 40 minutes in 90 degree weather and not gotten above 185. Checked timing and it's right on at 36 degrees where it has always been. So ........ either the slightly higher temperature outside pushed it past it's ability to cool or the thermostat has changed (increased) the flow. Went to 160 to start flow sooner and drilled bypass holes so it would heat up quicker which it did, but maybe now too much water flows and doesn't stay in the engine or radiator long enough.
I've had a lot to say on a few threads about managing overheating. But facts are facts and this time I did something wrong apparently. It'll be interesting to figure it out. In the meantime, if anyone has considered my idea of drilling bypass holes (which has worked for me several times before) if you don't have a bypass already, you might wait until I figure this out.
And of course it vapor locked. I carry cool packs - you break them so the chemicals mix - and that fixed that, but I was parked for over an hour. Sitting with a broken hot rod makes me feel like a squirrel sitting in the middle of 1000 Dobermans. Not a fun day.