tmracing62
08-16-2004, 01:07 AM
My court case is consuming my whole life so there's no time to work on the car or anything else. My wife finally ordered me to stay in the garage to break the cycle even if I didn't do anything. Everyone in the courtroom knows what this guy is trying to pull except the judge and no matter how simple I try to make it, he's lost. And this guy is talking all race talk and it's working. Not good.
Anyway, hopefully the following mistakes I made will help someone out.
If you are running an automatic: A 4000 stall converter is pretty soft for racing, but is well matched to my engine and I thought it would be livable on the street. Not really. It isn't locked up 99% of the time on the street, makes big heat, wastes gas and if you just want to stab the car for kicks, the converter is slipping until 4000 rpm and can be unimpressive. A 2800 runs much cooler and the car is a lot more fun. It won't cut as good of a light, but it's loads more fun.
I regret going to a one piece driveshaft. It's 4130 3.5" diameter, 54" long and starts to vibrate around 6400 rpm in third. (TH400) That means it's already vibrating before I can feel it and will wear everything out sooner if it doesn't fail first. I may go to a composite or carbon fiber, but that's a lot of $$$ that there's not much of. If the chassis was not already slightly twisted, having cut it up would be causing more than just regret right now. Maybe someone has had better luck, but the two piece beefed up would have been a better choice.
If you're using a Precision Products Shifter, adjust it in SECOND, not neutral. It wasn't fully engaging in third and damaged the transmission. Their instructions don't mention this, but they've started putting a little sticker on it telling you to do this. I've had three before, all adjusted in neutral and I guess I just got lucky.
And lastly, drilling the bypass holes in the thermostat is actually working very well. It opens at 160 and is not flooded with a rush of cooler water and closing again and again until the whole system reaches the same temp.
Anyway, hopefully the following mistakes I made will help someone out.
If you are running an automatic: A 4000 stall converter is pretty soft for racing, but is well matched to my engine and I thought it would be livable on the street. Not really. It isn't locked up 99% of the time on the street, makes big heat, wastes gas and if you just want to stab the car for kicks, the converter is slipping until 4000 rpm and can be unimpressive. A 2800 runs much cooler and the car is a lot more fun. It won't cut as good of a light, but it's loads more fun.
I regret going to a one piece driveshaft. It's 4130 3.5" diameter, 54" long and starts to vibrate around 6400 rpm in third. (TH400) That means it's already vibrating before I can feel it and will wear everything out sooner if it doesn't fail first. I may go to a composite or carbon fiber, but that's a lot of $$$ that there's not much of. If the chassis was not already slightly twisted, having cut it up would be causing more than just regret right now. Maybe someone has had better luck, but the two piece beefed up would have been a better choice.
If you're using a Precision Products Shifter, adjust it in SECOND, not neutral. It wasn't fully engaging in third and damaged the transmission. Their instructions don't mention this, but they've started putting a little sticker on it telling you to do this. I've had three before, all adjusted in neutral and I guess I just got lucky.
And lastly, drilling the bypass holes in the thermostat is actually working very well. It opens at 160 and is not flooded with a rush of cooler water and closing again and again until the whole system reaches the same temp.