Update on stroker build

[Tom Kochtanek]

It rained today so I had some time to tinker much of the afternoon. I've been "moving dirt" for 3 weeks, and it was good to get away from that challenge. After a few "honey do's" I went to "visit" my engine and decided to make an effort to advance that project.

Finally got the pistons in correctly :) and proceeded to remove the inner springs in the heads to reduce the wear on the cam during break in. After torquing the heads down (yes I put thread sealant on the bolts) I thought it might be motivating to "mock up" the engine and snap a few pics.

Still need to install cam (again) and after degreeing, determine a means to measure the length of the pushrods I will need. This is probably simple for those of you who do this, but this is my first ever engine assembly (can you tell?). Hopefully I can get that done over the weekend :)

This is a 1964 "422" truck block, bored .100" using Ross pistons with "CPG specs". Heads are 583s. Crank is a 427 modified for the 409. Sorry about the pair of Edelbrocks DQ, but they were "freebies" from a friend. Hard to pass up.

My advise is not to tackle a "stroker" project the first time out of the gate. I have had a lot of fun doing this, but it's not a simple set of tasks and really should be done by someone with more expertise. I should have listened to Phil Reed and focused on the paint and interior of the '62SS. Next time I do this I think I will just take everything to Tony Shaffer and have it done right the first time :)

Enjoy!

TomK

[dq409]

Cool engine Tom !!! Even if you did use Eddy`s !!! :D :D

They should work just find,,, I bet that engine should be able to suck them carbs down the intake ! heeee heeee

You should have all the hard stuff done and can now look forward to getting it running and saying YOU built it !!!! :clap ,,,dq

[Skip FIx]

OK pushrod length. you want at half lift the rocker arm to be dead center on the valve tip. You can buy some adjstable ones from Comp etc. Different rockers due to different cup depths can affect it so try to use the exact rocker you wil be using as well as lifter. Lifter cups vary in location slightly also. You can use Marks ALot on the valve tip to see the wear pattern.

It's a little easier with test valve springs in place buy I've done it on assembled motors also.

For those of you wanting a cheap 427 crank CP products have soem new GM ones for $199.00 right now.

[jim_ss409]

I had a little bit of trouble with pushrod length. The rocker stud and the valve stem aren't paralell, they get closer together at the top. So I had to go as short as possible on the pushrods in order to get good contact between the tip of the rocker and the valve. Everything works fine but if I were doing it again I'd have got the guy that did the valves and installed the ARP studs to take a little more off of the spot where the studs went in so that there was more room for adjustment.

[Skip FIx]

I wil go out and look at one of my 09 heads and see how parallel they are. Alot of heads of all types the stud is not parallel to the valve. Just shoot for that middle contact pattern.. Too short and it wil be on the intake side, too long off the exhaust side.