Dash Molding

[DDay1]

Can anyone tell me where I can get my aluminum dash molding on my 61 polished and reanodized. And what about the black lettering and narrow black stripes.:confused:

[real61ss]

I don't think anyone offers this service. I've never found one. If you do, please let me know.:confused:

[DDay1]

The whole dash or just the aluminum?:confused: I've got two. One in the car and one I'm restoring.

[bobs409]

There are places that do polishing and re-annodizing. Check with any known chrome plating shops in your area or check the ads in Hemmings, Late Great Chevys, etc. Do a search on the internet too.

If you like to do your own work, you could do the polishing yourself. Use oven cleaner to remove the annodizing, then buff the part on a buffer or hand buff with Mothers mag wheel polish. Since this is a part inside the car, the annodizing could be left go as long as you give the part a quick hand polish now and then.

I've done quite alot of exterior trim on some of my cars this way.

[real61ss]

If you look at the 61 dash, the little black lines and and VERY small letters, you'll see why this service isn't offered. I've checked with every one I know and haven't found anybody who will do it.
I was fortunate to find a NOS one for my 61 SS. Best of luck, Like I said, if you find someone, please let me know. My black 61 loses points for this piece at the serious point shows.:(

[dq409]

Post a picture,,,,,,,,,I like to see what your dealing with,,,dq

[bobs409]

I did the "fill-n-wipe" method :D that tmracing62 mentioned with the rocker moldings on my 66 Chevelle SS. They are ribbed with black in between each rib.

While I didn't need to polish these, I did want to repaint the black parts so I simply sprayed them with the black paint covering almost the whole thing until I was done and allowed them to dry, then with a rag soaked in solvent (reducer, laquer thinnner, carb cleaner,etc) simply wipe across the part. This removes all the paint from the high areas and leaves it in the impressions.

Im not familiar with this dash part so please excuse if this doesn't apply. ;)

[DDay1]

I'll get a picture posted tommorrow so you can see what I'm talking about. I didn't know the black are actually lettering. I just thought they were black lines.:cool:

[real61ss]

This is the closest I can come to a picture of the dash of a 61 if I did this right. http://photos.yahoo.com/real61ss

[DDay1]

Here's the picture of my dash. I wanted to post more than one but it wouldn't let me. It looks better in the picture than it does on the car.

[DDay1]

Here's another one.

[DDay1]

Here's one of the dash I'm trying to restore.

[DDay1]

And another, hope this doesn't clutter up the web site

[bobs409]

I see no reason why the fill-n-wipe method wouldn't work on that part.

I would be more concerned over the actual polishing process on something like that. If it gets caught in the buffer wheel, it gets flung against the wall and ruined im most cases! :eek: Even the pro's have that happen occasionally. I lost a 66 Chevelle headlight bezel that way once. :cuss

I would think using a small buffer on something like an die grinder or similar might be best. Do all the polishing and then use the method mentioned above.

Since the lines are small, use a rag wrapped tightly around something like (your finger, piece of wood, ???) to clean up the excess paint so the cloth doesn't go deep in the grooves.

One nice thing is, you won't hurt it to try. (except the "catch and fling" disaster) :D

[bowtieollie]

HEy Bob,

The fill and swipe method will not work on the '61 dash.

Those guys really went out of their way when they designed this dash. The black detail is on the RAISED portion of the rib - and not the valley.

Tommy and I discussed this briefly once - and this is what I came out with - hope to help you DDay.

The fine lines on the dash can be reapplied using a "paint pen" which is available from Eastwood. The trick is to make a guide from hardwood or aluminum - otherwise, the pen will quiver and the lines are history. This paint pen will allow lines that are actually FINER than the originals - so its the hot ticket for the '61 dash.

The lettering? Dry Transfer lettering can be applied. You will have to match the font (close but not exact) and once attached, I would use a high quality clear coat (prefer 2k system) to seal it all in.

This will actually allow a higher durability dash than the original.

As Bob mentions, remove the anodize prior to this operation, polish it well, then apply the lines/lettering.

It is going to be a time consumer. :cheers

[bobs409]

Ah, that's completely different then. Hard to tell in the pic.

A small rubber roller comes to mind. Roll through some paint, then roll across the ribs. ??? Possible ???

I've never seen this part up close so just going by the picture in my mind.

There has to be a way. If it was done once, it can be done again. :p

[dq409]

You might try to find a good silk screener in your area that would be willing to try and do it.,,,,dq

[DDay1]

I think I'll try the paint pencil method. Although I'm gonna ask a friend of mine who cuts vinyl lettering, maybe he's got some idea we haven't thought about. Thanks for all the ideas.:D

[bubbletop61]

Has anyone else noticed....it looks like these dash inlay panels were "painted" with the lines and legends before they were formed. I have noticed that the lines continue right up onto the flange on the end on both the dash inlay and the glove box door.

I can't think of any othewr explanation for this. There are enough of us that have this problem to afford some type of semi sophisticated tooling to get these panels decorated properly.
I had the anodizing stripped on mine, and now I dont know whether to get it reanodized before the lines or after..any tragic experiences with this one guys???

Cheers
Bubbletop61

[DDay1]

If you look close the black lines are on top of the anodizing.;)

[wrench]

Not sure I got this pic, but SOMEONE must be selling these:

http://wrench.vox.org/labels.jpg

[bowtieollie]

Hey Bubble,

You will have to add the "lines" after the anodizing process.

If you do it before - the sulfuric acid in the anodize process will remove the paint.:cry

[61stumppuller]

I'm having the same problem. I can't help right off, but here are two things I have run across. What make the piece difficult is that the manufacturing process including first silk printing the black lines on flat anodized aluminum sheets, and then stamping the piece to get the rippled finish. Second, a few weeks ago, I ran across a 60 rag that really made one drop to your knees. The rear aluminum trim around the tail lights is a grown up version of the 61 dash pieces - anodized aluminum sheets, silk printed with black strips and then stamped to form. The owner said a shop on the north side of Chicago restored the pieces, and I could not tell them from excellent NOS pieces. The problem is I can't remember the name of the shop who did the work (Senior moment). I hope I run across this car again.

[bubbletop61]

Dear Stumpuller
I thought I was going mad. I've posted on CT and here that these were screen printed before they were stamped and no one seems to have agreed until now. My theory is that with the stripes going up arpund the stamped corners on the glove box door, the dash inlay and the shift console plate, the parts have to have been printed before they were formed. Thanks for the support. Hope we can find a solution.
Cheers
BBTP61

[DENNISJR60]

CAN ANYONE TELL ME HOW TO GET THIS PIECE OFF ON MY 61? THE PIECE I'M REFERING TO IS THE ONE IN THE PICTURES. THANKS.:confused:

[DDay1]

Don't know which piece you're talking about . Your picture didn't make it.:confused: If you're talking about the dash molding, it ain't no easy job unless your dash is completely out of the car. The following has to come out of the dash, headlight switch, speedometer, the cigar lighter, and the radio. Then the piece is glued to the dash with some kind of putty. I think it would be darn near impossible to get out if the dash was in the car.