409 with big block lower end how to?

[Rods of the Valley]

I need some specific information on putting 454 or other big block cranks in my 409 block.
If anyone out there can give me specific info I sure would appreciate it. I am not sure what crank, rod, balancer, flywheel,,,, to use...

Am I cutting down the crank and using the 409 bearings and rods? Do I need to order pistons with the pin at what position? Will I cut the crank snout and use the 409 balancer? what cam? Has anyone taken lots of notes on one of these deals AND done some dyno work????
I DO want to have it look "kind of original" outside so I will use the 2X4 setup with the original AFB carbs. I would rather not use the bigger AFB carbs. currently available...
I am the second owner of this 62 Super Sport. last registered in 1970....... Bought new right here in town, never left this place... When it returns to the street I want to have the guys remember the good old days, but need to do the work so it will run on the crummy pump gas we have now.
Thanks!
e-mail me at funcars4us@hotmail.com

[SS425HP]

You should get the crank and stuff from someone who knows how to do this. The crank requires a lot of work. Your best bet is to buy a kit. We have members on here that can supply them. And, don't worry about the gas. These motors, mine anyway, run just fine at 11.0-1 on 93 pump gas. This combustion chamber is not prone to detonation. I see you are in California. Curt Harvey used to do these kits. Not sure if he still does or not. He is listed in the links on this site. There is a place in Willows, CA that does 409 stuff. Just saw him at the convention in Kansas City. I think it's "409 Chevy Performance". If you want it to be "original", you need the 409 horse cam. They are not very lopey. You can get much better performing cams today. You are close to enough 409 people out there that you can get good service on what you are looking for. If you want, though, Phil Reed in Kansas City can set you up with all you need, I'm pretty sure. He has a good connection with a shop in Kansas City that is as good as I have seen. They just did a motor for the convention that put out BIG numbers, and was very streetable. Call 1-816-587-1109. Good people. Try Phil first. Everything Phil does has a connection to 409. I'm really surprised his phone number doesn't have 409 in it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Good luck, and welcome to the venue of 409 NUTS. Be careful, you can get bitten very hard by these motors. They become addictive, and can consume vast amounts of time and money. I know.

Fred

[Tom Kochtanek]

Check this out:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7922696048&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT

I am not recommending that you buy this, just that this is an example of a crank that you might be looking to make or have made. You can actually start with a 396/427 crank (CPG's approach) or a 454 crank. Different strokes for different folks :)

I handed my machine shop guy a stock 409 crank and a 427 crank and told him to make the 427 crank like so. Cost about $500 - $750 depending on who does the work. It also can eat the cutter on a lathe when you turn the counterweights, which is expensive. Just ask me...

Cheers,
TomK

[jim_ss409]

Lamar Walden is a "W" engine builder from the Atlanta area. He gave a seminar and answered questions at the convention. He favors boring out the block to big block size mains and he also sells a timing cover with a larger crankshaft seal so that a big block balancer can be used. I think he also uses billet main caps with this setup but I'm not sure on that. I should also add that Lamar is best known for high horsepower racing engines so this may be the reason he goes with this stronger setup. Most other builders just work with the crank. The mains need to be cut down to 409 size, the snout needs to be cut down to 409 (same as smallblock) size and I think they take a bit off of the counter weights as well. If you use a 396-427 crank I think you can re-use your damper and flywheel but if you use the 454 crank you need a ballanced, 454 style, flywheel and a ballanced vibration damper from a 400 smallblock. With the 4" stroke it's also nessisary to do a tiny bit of grinding on the block to alow the rod bolts to clear. Most, if not all builders use big block style rods. The engine they gave away at the convention was built by Tony Shafer. It had the 4" (454) stroke and I'm pretty sure it was built using the machined crank system. It made about 574hp and 560ft. lbs of torque. This was with 10 to 1 compression (Aubrey's pistons) and a solid roller cam with about 242-248 duration @.050. I think it had 110 deg. lobe centres. It idled very well.