Help with POR-15

[Daddys409Belair]

A friend of mine highly recommended this and I've read some previous posts that mentioned it, but I know that some of you can give me some tips if I decide to use this stuff on my frame and floorpans. I've been using good-ole flat black rustoleum on most of my underhood pieces and fenderwells.

What's the pro's and con's of POR-15?
How do I use it and paint over it?
Can I paint over it with the rustoleum?
Are you guys going to curse me out or blackball me for using rustoleum?
Do I ask too many questions?
Lemme have it!:coffee:

Thanks in advance.

[Tom Kochtanek]

I've used both the POR products (degreaser, etcher, and the black stuff itself) on several cars/frames and so forth. I've also used the "comparable" Eastwood products on my 1962 SS restoration. I prefer the POR stuff for what I am doing. I apply it with a cheap disposable brush (for frames and underneath stuff) and it smooths out nicely, like an oil-based paint does (in the old days!). No brush marks.

The Eastwood products (Rust Encapsulator) leave brush strokes. So you don't want this on a nice restoration for parts you see often (fender wells, pulleys, A-arms, etc.) unless you don't mind the brush marks. I would spray it, but this stuff (both of 'em) are soooo toxic I don't want to get any inside of me :).

I'm familiar with Rustoleum for around-the-house stuff, but haven't used it on a car. I figure you often get what you pay for, and these prodcuts (POR and Eastwood) do cost a bit more.

The POR stuff goes a long way. Once you open a can (say a quart) plan on using it all, since it hardens even if you seal the can back up. They do sell them in "six packs", smaller cans -- and you can mix and match colors (gloss black/silver/flat black).

POR by itself does not represent a finished coat, the surface will "chalk up" when exposed to UV light (the sun). So a top coat is required to look good. I used Eastwood's "Chassis BlacK rattle cans over an "X" frame I sand blasted, degreased, etched and two coated with POR. The results were excellent (if I may say so myself...)!

Depending on what you are trying to accomplish, each product (including the Rustoleum) has it's merits.

Let me know what your intent is and perhaps I can provide more advise :).

Best,
TomK

[mabeauchamp]

I think Tom hit all the bases. Just one thing to add. I have success using the cheap foam type brushes, which leave no brush marks. Have plenty on hand because they don't last long. Also, make sure you won't need to weld near the area. The heat, of course, bubbles the POR-15 up and it is a bear to strip & repaint. Good luck. I can definitely attest to its strength.

[60biscayne]

Hi. Yes, these guys are pretty straight on this Por 15. Last summer, my son and I applied 3 qts. to the underside of our 60' Chevy. We had the best luck, with, like, bristle brushes, the polyester ones, kind of melted. If you want even a chance at re-using a can, I made a dipper out of a spray paint can lid and a little handle, and carefully dipped the paint out into another container, enough for what we had time to apply. Do not get any of the por15 in the groove on the top of the can, if you can help it, then I laid a ziplok bag over the can, pushed the lid back on, put another bag or two over the upper half of the can with rubber bands around them, then put the can in the frig. A week later, I was still able to use it. This stuff is like liquid powder coat, it gets so hard, you can't hardly break off a hardened drip, for example. :rofl One of the 3 cans was new, and I almost wrecked the lid trying to get it off, using a paint can lid remover, then finally channellocks. Another tip, we put bread bags over our arms, then wore shopcaots and rubber gloves, this cut down on what got on our skin. If you get to the splatter on your skin within an hour or so, WD-40, would cut most of it off, but any longer, and you will wear it for at least a week, kind of embarrasing all over your face!!! ::doh , But, our car turned out great, we really liked the final results, it's kinda expensive at $33 a quart, but worth it in the long run I think. It doesn't really smell that nasty, either, does not smell like an epoxy, like you'd think it would. Skins up in about 7 hours, real dry the next day. Good luck!!! 60biscayne(Brian).

[Tom Kochtanek]

Good advise so far! I wanted to add that I found out that two thin coats seems to work better than one thick coat, depending on what you are attempting to preserve. I did this on a bare X frame. Can't go wrong there.

After cleaning and degreasing the sand blasted frame, I used their etching product to provide the "bite" needed for long term adhesion. Then I put one thin coat of POR on. The next day (or maybe it was later that evening, I forget) I put on a second thin coat, and while that was setting up, I put a finish coat of Chassis Black over the POR. You need to get that final coat on before the POR sets up, according to the instructions. Basically, if you follow their instructions, you can't go wrong.

I have also used this on areas that were "less prepared" (read: really rusty) and let them sit out in the elements for 1-2 years with no adverse effect -- the corrosion did not come back :).

Good luck!

TomK