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gamnpass
05-06-2006, 08:46 PM
I'm going to try to put a 2x4bbl 409 in a '57 Chevy. Should I just shoot myself now, or wait until I've spent my life savings? What kind of problems am I going to encounter? Any advice would be appreciated!

JimKwiatkowski
05-06-2006, 09:55 PM
gamnpass,welcome to the site,I just received your email and I'll answer your question here.I installed my 409 in my 57 24 years ago,you will have to modify your oil pan to clear the steering linkage,or use an aluminum oil pan from Show Cars.The left exhaust manifold is a tight fit,so you will have to use low perfomance manifolds.I used front engine mounts for a big block from Classic Chevy.Other members have welded side engine mounts in there 55's.There's alot written about this subject,go to search and type in 409 in a 55.

gamnpass
05-08-2006, 09:18 AM
THANK YOU. This is just the kind of info I was looking for. I'll follow your advice.

dq409
05-08-2006, 11:17 AM
To answer your first question,,,,,,


YES YOU ARE !!!!! Welcome to the nut house !!!:cheers

desapience
05-08-2006, 11:42 PM
I'm going to try to put a 2x4bbl 409 in a '57 Chevy. Should I just shoot myself now, or wait until I've spent my life savings? What kind of problems am I going to encounter? Any advice would be appreciated!

I installed both BBC's and a 409 (stroker) in my '55' Belair (see photo gallery). It now has a 409/446 stroker.

One of the biggest issues, are was already noted, is the steering box (605 or otherwise), which one person already responded necessitated low performance exhausts. There is a way around this, and you STILL CAN use stock 65-409 hi-po exhaust headers, easily (IF YOU CAN FIND THEM).

Change over to a Rack & Pinion steering setup, which are available as kits from many sources. But, when you compare them, look for a kit that will still provide you with a tight turning radius -- some do, some do not. Using a R&P, you will find a need for closer attention to which oil-pan you use. Mine was custom made by Stef's owner to my blue-prints, and even then, I needed to slightly modify it to clear my R&P rack mounting bolt correctly.. it's worth it.

Designing your steering system, length of steering column, and steering shaft, is not menu driven. I solved that problem in a straigthforward fashion, and I'd be more than happy to share the specific details with you.. simply e-mail me at Dentaldmd@aol.com I have many pictures of the step-by-step soluitions, and I'd be happy to share them with you.

As for motor mounts, I used TCI SBC mounts -- TCI offers two variations of these GREAT mounting brackets. The SBC version moves the engine forward 3/4", and the BBC version 1 1/4" forward. This will help greatly with firewall clearances, and help minimize the need for firewall blistering. The reason I used the SBC version of the mounts was because in a 55, and with my desire to have A/C, I needed every inch of space between the condensor and hood-latch bracket. I also wanted to minimize the forward shift in the center of gravity for the car. In a 57, you'll have tons of room, and going to a BBC version of TCI"s motor mounts, would again fiurther minimize any necessary firewall blistering. THERE IS NO WELDING REQUIRED TO PLACE THESE MOUNTS SECURELY -- THEY MOUNT USING STOCK RIVET HOLES WITH AIRCRAFT BOLTS IN THEIR PLACE! MINE HAVE NOT EVER LOOSENED ONE BIT!

I also strongly suggest you try some electro-hydraulic brakes (if using power brakes). go to www.abspowerbrake.com... and refer to my photo gallery. Going to this set-up will allow you to avoid use of a vacuum booster, and enable you to easily remove the 409 valve covers at any time.

Dr D (Denis)

JimKwiatkowski
05-09-2006, 07:38 AM
Here's 2 links to some good info,that will be very helpful.

http://www.348-409.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5147

http://www.348-409.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5882