Questions about Radiators

[ROYALOAK62]

Need some advise conerning radiators.
I have a overheating problem with my 409. As of now I'm using a stock 4-speed radiator with a 409 shroud and a belt driven fan. I had to replace the 4-speed trans with a 700R-4 because of need (war injury). The trans shop put in a 27,000 btu cooler by it's self, in front of the radiator. The engine runs at about 200 degrees while moving, but as soon as I stop the temp starts to go up fast. 20 degrees before the stop light changes.

I have looked in BE COOL & Griffin aluminum radiators infomation, but I'd like some advise. I don't care about the cross or down flow issue only what will cool the best.

BE COOL says they have a correct radiator for my 1962 Impala that will be 20 to 40 degrees cooler.

Griffin says theirs is for 1963 or 1964 only. No 1962. I throuht 61 thru 64 Impalas used the same radiator.

Thank you in advance for any advise.

Dave

[threeimpalas]

What temperature thermostat are you using? Is the fan spaced the right distance into the shroud (half in/half out)?

[ROYALOAK62]

What temperature thermostat are you using? Is the fan spaced the right distance into the shroud (half in/half out)?

Threeimpalas, Am running a 165 degree with 50/50 mix water/antifreeze with waterwetter. The fan is half-in & half-out of the shroud also using new working thermo-clutch with a 6-blade fan. Also using new 13 lb cap.

Another question is how can you tell if the waterpump is working at full capacity? All I see in the radiator now is that both hoses are hot but how can you tell if the water is moving as fast as it should?

Dave

[dq409]

Threeimpalas, Am running a 165 degree with 50/50 mix water/antifreeze with waterwetter. The fan is half-in & half-out of the shroud also using new working thermo-clutch with a 6-blade fan. Also using new 13 lb cap.

Another question is how can you tell if the waterpump is working at full capacity? All I see in the radiator now is that both hoses are hot but how can you tell if the water is moving as fast as it should?

Dave

With all the talk about our 09`s having temp problems and the few who don`t have this problem that are using the aftermarket aluminum radiators, I would say this is the way to go.
If you want to retain the stock look with an aluminum radiator stay with the stock looking aluminum replacement radiator, top to bottom flow painted black.
But if you want more cooling capacity and don`t care about the stock look go with the side to side flow. They do offer better cooling.

When checking out an aluminum radiator make sure the brand you get is alum welded not epoxied.
I believe both brands you mentioned are welded.

You can remove the rad cap, carefully, and look at the coolant to see if it is circulating.
But,,, faster is not necessarily better. The coolant needs to stay in the radiator long enough to cool down.

Also lower your percent of mixture of water / antifreeze. Water cools better then antifreeze.
Also if you read the instructions for Waterwetter it is recommended that you do not use antifreeze I believe. been a while since I`ve used it.
They recommend distilled water and the waterwetter only if i remember right.

Adding an electric axillary fan will also help in cooling at a stop or in slow traffic.

There have been several good discussions lately here on the forum about running too hot.
Do a search thu the forum for more info on this subject. dq

[desapience]

Need some advise conerning radiators.
I have a overheating problem with my 409. As of now I'm using a stock 4-speed radiator with a 409 shroud and a belt driven fan. I had to replace the 4-speed trans with a 700R-4 because of need (war injury). The trans shop put in a 27,000 btu cooler by it's self, in front of the radiator. The engine runs at about 200 degrees while moving, but as soon as I stop the temp starts to go up fast. 20 degrees before the stop light changes.

I have looked in BE COOL & Griffin aluminum radiators infomation, but I'd like some advise. I don't care about the cross or down flow issue only what will cool the best.

BE COOL says they have a correct radiator for my 1962 Impala that will be 20 to 40 degrees cooler.

Griffin says theirs is for 1963 or 1964 only. No 1962. I throuht 61 thru 64 Impalas used the same radiator.

Thank you in advance for any advise.

Dave


Dave,

I have a very similar problem in cooling my 409/446 stroker in my '55' Belair. I have a 'bolt-in' Griffen downflow with the bigger core, aluminum shroud, and only the electric fan mounted fully to the shroud (no belt-driven fan), that is precisely controlled by Dakota Digital's temperature fan-controller -- a great product). I also have a smaller sized A/C condensor mounted in front of the radiator. The thermostat is 180, with a 16# cap and fully functional overflow tank.

On a hot day here in FL, I cannot sit in traffic for long. It runs 170-185 on the open highway, but, around town with mild traffic, it stays at between 190-205. It can overheat in bumper-to-bumper traffic on a hot day.

I've used only distilled water, and water-wetter alone, and also with a mix of small portion of antifreeze. The other poster is correct, the 'good' water wetters do not work well if mixed with anti-freeze. At best, my experience has been that the water-wetters only provide 5-10 degress extra cooling capability.

If you go to an aluminum radiator, NEVER use tap water :nono1: -- you MUST use only distilled water... cast iron blocks and aluminum, together, will trigger a corrosive chemical reaction with the mineral content of tap waters, and ruine the radiator.

A WELDED aluminum cross-flow is far better.. the aluminum sheds heat faster, and cools better, and is often of higher capacity for coolant. Some guys use an 'over-drive' water pump pully (smaller pulley on water pump), but, again as another poster pointed out, faster flowing water pumps do have drawbacks - the water needs to flow slowly enough to both pick up the heat and be cooled...

Position of the belt-driven fan is also critical, as pointed out by others already -- half-in, half out, of the shroud is a MUST.

Be sure your thermostat is not sticking, and/or that the fan belt is not slipping.

And, last but not least.. check your timing, and advance mechanism(s)! An engine's timing that is too retarded will run significantly hotter!

Denis