New oil pan FYI

[models916]

I have been chasing an oil leak at the rear of the engine all week. It was multiple causes. Oil filter adapter had a small hairline crack that was leaking a drippble. Fixed that and thought it was a done deal. It now appears that the front and rear lip on the new stamped oil pans for the 348-409 like I got from Hubbards is ever so slightly different dimentionally on the height of the lip where it presses into the big rubber seal. Mine is leaking just a touch in the front, but now, quite a lot in the rear. I will replace the pan gasket while engine is in the car? (ya' think). Just thought I would mention this to all who may be assembling an engine with this pan to be sure to check that there is enough crush of this gasket in the area mentioned. Might save somebody some time and trouble. I have changed a pan gasket on my 62 sbc, hoping it is as easy. Any experience with the pan in the car out there?

[dq409]

I have been chasing an oil leak at the rear of the engine all week. It was . I have changed a pan gasket on my 62 sbc, hoping it is as easy. Any experience with the pan in the car out there?


Not fun to say the least !!!

It`s been a while but i don`t think you can completely remove the pan without lifting the engine a bunch.
I got it down to pulling the engine in 45 minutes.

If you use a shim or just gasket sealer use the black or gray stuff.
They are not as slippery as the other colors and stick better. ,,dq

[JimKwiatkowski]

Models,I can send you some engine dye if you need it,send me your mailing address if your interested.

[models916]

I laid on my back last night and traced the drip to the rear pan lip against the rear main rubber seal. Just not enough squish where it needs to be. The front appears to be the same. May just be off shore mfg. tollorance from pan to pan as compared to the General where everything fits the same. Got a gasket on order, should pick it up tonight and attempt to install Sat. I will keep all informed.

[Tom Kochtanek]

Models:

I was faced with this same thing a few months back. Thought I could get the seals in with the engine in place. I ended up removing the engine (we call it "Do the drill" around here, if you know what I mean...) to get access.

I think it was Gearhead who had some tips about slipping the engine out just so much to get that pan off, but I went all the way with total removal.

Good luck!

TomK

[dq409]

Now that I think about it the reason I say pull the engine and got it down so fast was that I had to change that pan gasket twice for the same reason.
It was a stock pan but leaked both front and back.

If you aline (sorry couldnt spell that dang word) bore a block doesn`t it move the crank up a few thousands??
dq

[models916]

I talked to the machine shop friend of mine who says the align hone on the mains moves the caps up a few thou. He suggested I just clean it off and smear some high temp black silicone on the seam. Seems to think it will stop it. He also said a new engine will blow a lot of crankcase pressure untill the rings are sealed. He told me to vent the engine as much as possible to keep the internal pressure from blowing the seals out. He does it like Ronnie said and smears it on after it is assembled. I also got the new Transdapt oil filter adapter that attaches like the original canister in the center, not by the two bolts that tend to bend the plate against the gasket. Uses a Ford PH8a filter. Small leak still to be fixed on the collar of the distributor. Looks like it is leaking out the set screw. Iwill just clear silicone the hole. Thanks all, may have to pull it out yet. I will let you know.

[TomO]

This info will come in handy as my block will have to be aligned bored. Thanks!!!

TomO

[dq409]

I`m still thinking,,, can`t you smell the wood burning???:p

I remember using a thin strip of inner tube sealed with black sealer between the gasket and pan to cure my problem.

I mentioned this to my machinist so I wouldn`t have the problem again after the install of the last build-up.
He reassured me that he could install the pan with out this and not have any leaks.

He did,, I don`t.

One thing we used to do on diesel engines was to coat the gaskets with black sealer assemble the parts with minimum torq and let them cure over night if possible.
Then the next day torq to spec. This eliminated many problem leaks and we had great success doing it this way.

,,dq

[409z28]

Mike check E-mail. let me know Mike:)

[Ronnie Russell]

Is it pretty? Nope..... Would you like for your friends to see it? Nope..... Will your friends see it? Nope..... Do you have to admit you did it? Nope... Will it leak? NOPE ....... silicone forced into area between pan and main cap and pan ends with " the finger". If everything is as it should be, you dont need it. But whats wrong with a little insurance?

[skipxt4]

Ronnie: We have a little saying, "what's a job, without a little cob". Although nobody likes to admit it, sometimes you just have to cob it. If it stops the leak, thats all that matters. Nothing more annoying, than a car that marks its territory, everytime you park it.:rofl Skip :)

[blown55409]

same here I had a oil leak after first starting my motor, since the mains were bored and honed for big block size and 4 bolt mains I believed that the problem was the rear seal on the oil pan. I tried puting a strip of inner tube under the rear pan seal, but it didn't work, I pulled the motor again and put two stripes of inner tube under the rear pan seal. Still leaking oil, then decieded to use an old Harley trick. i cleaned everything real good with brake cleaner around the area and sprayed foot powder over it, then laid under the car while the motor was started to see where the leak was coming from, turns out it was coming from the rear main not the pan. problem solved. hope this helps.
very best regards
chip

ps I still use a thin strip of inner tube under the rear pan seal I just like the way it imprints the stock seal.

[models916]

409z28 suggested I left out the small straight rubber pieces under the rear main. Correct O' Mundo. The pieces in question are indeed still in the Fel-Pro gasket set box. Rear main is wet at the parting line above the pan seal. I have ordered a pan gasket and will attempt to install all while the engine is still in the frame. I did this with my small block (400 pan) by raising the engine as far as it would go before hitting the bellhousing on the body. See if it works on the W. But, along the way I did find the collar on the dist. was leaking, the spin on filter adapter was leaking, the front pan seal was leaking. I will post the results when I get the gasket and take it apart. Thanks to all with suggestions.

[dq409]

I have ordered a pan gasket and will attempt to install all while the engine is still in the frame. I did this with my small block (400 pan) by raising the engine as far as it would go before hitting the bellhousing on the body. .


Best of luck !!!!! It`s really really tight,,,,,,dq

[models916]

Here is a pic of how far you need to go to pull the pan without removing the trans and flexplate. Not too bad of a job, don't want to do it again. Thanks to all for the up front info.

[Ronnie Russell]

Cool picture models, Oil pump and pick-up in plain view. If that was " not too bad a job", then the control arm bushings will be a snap. Wont be long before you are out there , bashing those Jap cars again. Good luck....