PDA

View Full Version : 64 chevy II 283 4" bore?


doc396
12-06-2006, 09:20 PM
i parted out a 64 chevy II 4 door with a 283 3 speed stick. the car had set for years and the motor was locked up (it ran when it was parked). i have it on a engine stand and have been spraying it down with wd-40 from time to time. it has the very small harmonic balancer which i "think" that means it has a steel crank. i have heard that this block can be bored to 4", thus a 302. does anyone know if this is true? that seems like quite a bit.:scratch doc

CDNpontiac409guy
12-06-2006, 09:29 PM
Quick note... I did this once... needed to partially fill the water jacket because the cylinder went paper thin at the bottom in a couple spots. Then spent 10 hours clearancing the block so the 327 crank would fit.

AAAH yes !
GREAT idea:doh :doh :doh

chevymusclecars
12-06-2006, 10:29 PM
The block will bore to four inches, if there is much core shift you might get some chipping at the bottom of the cylinders but round the edges and they work fine.

Bill

dq409
12-07-2006, 12:43 PM
I just read where you can pour Coke into the cylinder holes to free stuck pistons.
The phosphoric acid eats the crude to free the pistons,,,dq

oldskydog
12-07-2006, 05:14 PM
I'll have to try that on the 67 Nova when I get it home. It has original pop up pistons that look to be in pretty good shape but I'm sure they are stuck. Hate to destroy them gettting them out.

Bungy
12-07-2006, 06:13 PM
I have heard that those 283s from the mid sixes should go .125 over but I would have the block sonic checked first. All 283s have a steel crank. You will probably have to rebalance it if going with 4 inch pistons.

doc396
12-07-2006, 09:52 PM
from what i have read in colvins book, 283 engines came with nodular cast and forged steel cranks in 283's. the 64 block i have #3790721 (chevyII only) was used in 65 and early 66 for the 327 as well. doc

oldskydog
12-07-2006, 11:46 PM
I seem to remember that they started putting cast cranks in the 283 in 64.

region rat
12-08-2006, 12:54 AM
Doc, I wouldn't try to go 4" . Cheaper to find a 4 " bore block. 350's are so cheap, but if you want to use what you have, I'd just bore the minimum. Thin walls flex and loose power. Bob

Bungy
12-08-2006, 04:32 PM
I was..... wrong?:eek: I was sure they all had steel cranks but after checking my sources it turns out they started using the nodular iron cranks in 64. But not very many. Most will be found in 66 and 67 283s. Not a big fan of the colvin books but in this case he was right. But like I said, the odds are, yours probably has the forged steel crank. Its easy to tell the difference if you can see the crank. Look at the parting lines. If its wide its a forged crank, if its a thin parting line its cast.

doc396
12-08-2006, 07:52 PM
don't fell to bad bungy, we all get bit now and then. i thought you might have been refering to the small journal 327, as a i am "pretty sure" they were all forged steel. anyway i had a 69 Z/28 for many years and i loved the way it preformed and sounded. i would like to duplicate that and find a nice plain jane chevy II for this engine. with the lighter weight crank,rods it may even prefrom better? well thats down the road, i am going to try the coca cola to free up the pistons. thanks for all the replies guys:cheers doc

dq409
12-09-2006, 12:38 PM
anyway i had a 69 Z/28 for many years and i loved the way it preformed and sounded. :cheers doc

Doc,, If you REALLY want that sound and performance go with a 377 !!!

400 block and 350 crank !!! Spins like a 302 pulls like BBC !!

OR,,, go one step farther and do a 400 block and I think a 327 crank,,, 348 !!!:brow

doc396
12-10-2006, 08:12 AM
you are probably right. but you know what they say " two hands in the bush are better than.......? or something like that:scratch :brow doc

wrench
12-10-2006, 06:40 PM
Don't forget the ding-dong test.

doc396
12-10-2006, 09:07 PM
ding-dong test????:scratch doc

wrench
12-10-2006, 11:01 PM
ding-dong test????:scratch doc


Stand a known steel crank on end next to a known iron crank.

Tap them each with a 9/16" wrench (or whatever size is handy).

The steel crank has a higher pitch (ding) and the iron has a lower pitch (dong).

And you thought it had something to do with Hostess Snack Foods, didn't ya?

:rofl

Bob Core
12-11-2006, 05:32 PM
I always thought it was easy to recognize a forged crank visually:

http://www.cartechbooks.com/cartech//Blueprinting_03_07.gif

Forged on the left; cast on the right. If it has a thin parting line and crisp numbers and other characters, it's cast. Forged cranks have thick parting lines and not-so-clear numbers.

I don't expect that this is news to too many people here, though.
:doh

doc396
12-12-2006, 09:12 PM
hey wrench, thats kinda like the old "ting-thud" method. an old mechanic showed me a lesson in drum brake return springs years ago. drop it on the floor, if it tings or pings its good. if you drop it and it thuds, no good. come to think of it, he taught me alot over the years. he's past on now, sometimes i wish i could give him a call and ask him some obscure question and he would probably know the answer:bow . doc

region rat
12-13-2006, 12:47 AM
Doc, A lot of truth in what you said about the "old Mechanic" Teaching you stuff.. Every day there's less of the old guys around. We need to take more time to listen to them while they're here. Before we kmow it, we're gonna be the old guys. Thanks for the insight. Bob

oldskydog
02-14-2007, 03:00 AM
I just read where you can pour Coke into the cylinder holes to free stuck pistons.
The phosphoric acid eats the crude to free the pistons,,,dq

This myth is busted. I filled the cylinders with Coke Classic and let them soak for 4 days and it did nothing but make a mess. I finally got the pistons out by soaking them with PB Blaster and using a wood block. They all came out without damage and appear to be useable. Fortunately there was no ridge in the cylinders and only light surface rust.

models916
02-14-2007, 09:04 AM
Me thinks the wood block did most of the work!

dq409
02-14-2007, 01:12 PM
[QUOTE=oldskydog;66369]This myth is busted. I filled the cylinders with Coke Classic and let them soak for 4 days and it did nothing but make a mess. /QUOTE]

NO,, NO ,,, You got it wrong !!!!:doh

You forgot the RUM !!!

Two parts Rum,,,, One part Coke,,,, Then drink as many as needed while the PB Blaster does it`s job !!!:brow :rofl :rofl


OK,,, Myth busted !!!! thanks for the heads up,,,dq

tripower
02-14-2007, 04:00 PM
[QUOTE=oldskydog;66369]This myth is busted. I filled the cylinders with Coke Classic and let them soak for 4 days and it did nothing but make a mess. /QUOTE]

NO,, NO ,,, You got it wrong !!!!:doh

You forgot the RUM !!!

Two parts Rum,,,, One part Coke,,,, Then drink as many as needed while the PB Blaster does it`s job !!!:brow :rofl :rofl


OK,,, Myth busted !!!! thanks for the heads up,,,dq

Just don't put any of that PB Blaster in your Styrofoam cup... :takethat You will be mixing the rum and coke in your mouth... :rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl

W Head
02-15-2007, 01:51 PM
I purchased a 409 that had been setting out side for 14 years under some junk. Pulled the heads (what a mess). Tried everything I could think of and everything I was told would work to loose the pistons, nothing worked. Ever broke a hole in one piston with a BFH. Then ricks409 told me about Sili Kroil. Got a can from Eastwood, sprayed everything down, let it set for a week and was able to get every piston out. It is some good stuff!!!:bow

W Head

59 El Camino 348-3,2s
59 Impala 409-2,4s

doc396
02-17-2007, 11:30 PM
thanks w head, i will get some and try it out. doc