59 shorty headers

[Geary Trussell]

Does anyone know of a shorty exhaust header that will fit a '59 348. I purchased
a set from Sanderson with the asssurance that they would fit but they hit the
control arm stud on the front pipe drivers side. I have seen a set advertised by Speedway :dunno motors but they look the same as the Sandersons. Thanks

[1958 delivery]

I just installed the Sanderson 409 shorty on my 58-348. Yes they touch (hit) the forward controll arm(cross shaft) stud. All you have to do is reverse the studs in the cross shafts make a small dimple and there's plenty of clearance. With the studs reversed there's still plenty of room to get a box wrench on the oversize nut and remove/loosen them for re-aligment when needed. I had put the small dimples in before I had reversed the bolts. After reversing the bolts I may not have need the dimples at all. The pass side collector flange comes very close to the crossmember/frame. I had to grind a very slight bit off one corner to allow me to rotate the position of the flange for fitment of the angled collector. With those minor mods they do fit very well. I selected the Sanderson header for two reasons, much cheaper than Dougs and I was concerned with a full length hanging to low for when I lower the car. I also didn't want to cut my inner fenders to install the two piece competition plus headers.

[models916]

Just cut it shorter to make the fit. Sandersons do fit pretty well.

[tripowerguy]

You know Sanderson has been advised about this for at least 10 years and you would think that they would change their jig and bring that front pipe up and then down to miss that front A arm bolt. If you put a 396 -454 in a X frame car you will fun into the same problem with Sanderson headers. It is a simple fix but it needs to be done at the factory. A great many of these headers are made in Mexico and I'm not sure if the header companies have a lot of control. They either take them as is or not.:deal Roy

[1958 delivery]

Just cut it shorter to make the fit. Sandersons do fit pretty well.


Your first picture is a great example, just turn that bolt around and it fits perfectly.

[1958 delivery]

Just cut it shorter to make the fit. Sandersons do fit pretty well.

Your next two pictures: It looks like you have different collectors than the ones I was supplied. The ones I got have an angle to the pipe relative to the flange. Makes a very easy transition for the head pipe to exit in very much the stock location.

[Geary Trussell]

58 delivery thanks for your reply. I to thought of reversing the cross arm
studs but they appear to be welded in and I already had my frame nicely
painted and did not want to chance damaging the paint. How are the studs
held in place? Press fit or welded? And how did you get them out to reverse them.

thanks for everyone's reply.

[models916]

Just splined like lug nuts, Whack it with a hammer with the nut on and turn around or replace with a Grade 8.

I used my own collectors, as an after thought it would have been easier to use the angle collectors. I bought the headers from someone and did not get the collectors.

[1958 delivery]

Just splined like lug nuts, Whack it with a hammer with the nut on and turn around or replace with a Grade 8.

I used my own collectors, as an after thought it would have been easier to use the angle collectors. I bought the headers from someone and did not get the collectors.


Yes, the angled ones allow you to center the exit so the head pipe drops straight down.

[1958 delivery]

58 delivery thanks for your reply. I to thought of reversing the cross arm
studs but they appear to be welded in and I already had my frame nicely
painted and did not want to chance damaging the paint. How are the studs
held in place? Press fit or welded? And how did you get them out to reverse them.

thanks for everyone's reply.

They are splined, but quite often will be loose if they have been removed before. The good part about this is the shape of the A arm allows ample room to be able to get wrenches in there for future removal. You can replace with new grade 8 hardware if you like.

[Geary Trussell]

Thanks guys for all the good suggestions on your replies. This weekend I
was successful in removing the cross arm studs. Just to expand on this thread.
My particular studs were pressed in tight and there is not much room to get
a good hammer strike on the stud with the engine installed. So I made a
simple tool using a piece of pipe that would fit over the OD of the stud head
and used a clamp to press it out. It was pressed it good and when it released
in made a big "pow' sound so I don't believe I could have driven it out .
Anyway thanks for all the help.

[tripowerguy]

When you replace these bolts you will notice that they are knurled on the shoulder. Be sure and take a chisel and knule the new grade 8 bolts before putting them in. You will not be able to find any direct replacement bolts so you have to modify new bolts. These bolts are similar to wheel studs and are really hard to get out. I used the same method of a large C clamp and a short piece of pipe. Even then I had to hit the clamp with a hammer as I kept putting more and more pressure on by turning on the clamp. You have a bolt that has been there for 40 years in the worst possible location, picking up road salt and all kinds of moisture, it seems like it is welded in.:cuss Roy

[1958 delivery]

You really won't need to have them knurled. That's why I mentioned that there is plenty of room on both sides of the shaft to get wrenchs in. Wrench on both ends means no need for a knurled bolt!