Old nasty exhaust manifolds

Randy

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
Guys, I want to take off the old, nasty exhaust manifolds on my 409. They are the stock type, dosen't look like they have ever been off. The bolts are rusted over from all these years of use. What do you recommend I do to get these off. Is heat going to be only option? I either want the manifolds bead blasted (I think thats what I need)or pick up a better set. I also need some tips on taking off the exhaust pipe at the flange, it to is rusted and nasty. What type of a heat source do I need? Thanks guys :)
 

Phil Reed

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 10
If the exhaust bolts are rusted inside the cylinder head............not good!! Try some heat around the cylinder head where the bolts are and hopefully they will release. If not........you'll have to grind the heads off the bolts to get the manifolds off then you can get the bolts out. Good luck. Just estimating the time here....probably a 12pack!!!!~!~ 3 to try to get the bolts out.........6 more in case they don't and you have to do some grinding..........and 3 more to figure out "why me" on these type of things!!!~!~
 

bobs409

 
Administrator
Or to be the optimist in the group, they might just turn right out! :D

If the heads of the bolts are rusted bad, you will probably have to use a metric socket and possibly even tap it on with a hammer.

The flange... those studs often break but since your fixing these manfolds up, you'll probably want to put in new studs anyway. I would soak them good, try your best to get the nuts off without breaking the studs. If successful, you can double nut the stud and hopefull back the studs out. (soak them t0o)

Have fun! :p :)
 

Randy

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
I'm really hoping to take off the exhaust manifold along with the exhaust pipe all in one big haul. I think I can can cut the pipe before or at the exhaust manifold flange and pull it out from the top. That way I can work on the flange outside the car and having not to lay on my back for several hours. These old bones aren't what they used to be. Remember, I'll be working on my 56 and their seems to be plenty area to work, thats my plan anyway.....
 

tripower

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
I would take a turn on them and see if they come out first. Most of the time they do unless this engine has been sitting in a bad environment.
 

64ss409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 9
I have not had much problem with manifold to head bolts. They usually come loose. Exhaust pipe flange is a different deal. I have not had much luck with penetrating oil. I try to loosen, but not enough to twist them off. If they won't loosen, I get the torch and heat the nut red hot. While it is still red, I remove it. It it gets cool and tight before all the way off, I heat it red again, and then turn it the rest of the way. I always use a thread chaser or a die to clean up the threads before re-assembly. If they won't clean, they have to be replaced, best done with manifold off.

If you start twisting bolts off, refer to Phil's post above. Start with a 12 pack.
 

poison ivy

Well Known Member
there is a new product called deep creep i got a orielly works good also. but the fire wrench solves most! atf auto trans fluid
 

Randy

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
there is a new product called deep creep i got a orielly works good also. but the fire wrench solves most! atf auto trans fluid

I'll have to check that deep creep out. Maybe in a few days, I'll go to O' Riely's then maybe hit Harbor Freight and look for a fire wench. My wife has me working on the kitchen, new light fixtures, all new knobs, new paint , etc.......Happy wife, happy life :D
 

boxerdog

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 5
I read somewhere that a mix of acetone and atf works better than anything you can buy....???
 

yellow wagon

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
WD40 is worthless as a penetrant. Get out the PB Blaster and spray the bolts once a day for 3 days. I have had really good luck loosening rusty bolts this way
 

DonSSDD

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
I read somewhere that a mix of acetone and atf works better than anything you can buy....???
Mixed 50/50, it works way better than any of the commercial stuff. The Deep Creep is pretty good. We get a product called Rust Chek, it prevents rust and creeps into seams and bolt threads. It has no petroleum products in it so you can use it with a torch.

Don
 

Rickys61

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
I've worked on a lot of rusty northeast Ohio cars, the torch is your best friend, just watch for combustibles... Not only on the car, but around it as well. Had a bad experience once with the can of premix for the chainsaw...
 

Randy

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
Thanks for all the advise guys. I have a pretty good idea what I want to do. Now I can't wait for this weather to break here in Michigan. :beer
 
Top