Need help from the experts...348 in a 63 c-10 truck / exhaust manifolds-headers

[1963c-10]

Yeah, so just need to figure out the frame mount to the engine mount. I sent the speedway tech guru's an email to see if they can offer any help to the frame mount issue to the horseshoe mount.

 

[1963c-10]

Ive gone ahead and ordered the mount. I can always fab the frame mounts if needed. I'll use the CPP mounts on the 427 going into the other 63. I'll keep you guys up to date on this. So my other question is......do I resume cast iron manifolds or headers for this build? Seems the cast iron manifolds if picked properly seems to be the popular choice over headers.

 

[Don Jacks]

While I prefer headers for both gas mileage,cruising torque[long tube or tri-y type],for what you've stated the goals for your build,mild,cruiser build of around 325 hp.,A set of 2 inch outlet manifolds would save you considerable money,and do fine here.2 1/2 would be slightly better of course on the top end of the power curve, but you've already got the 2's,ad the money could be spent on other things.Headers ,since they'd have to be custom,would likely set you back 700 plus dollars.

 

[oldskydog]

Yeah, so just need to figure out the frame mount to the engine mount. I sent the speedway tech guru's an email to see if they can offer any help to the frame mount issue to the horseshoe mount.

Speedway sells a mounting kit to use with this which has cushions, bolts and steel pads to bolton or weld on the frame. There are a couple of versions.
BTW, the big trucks used a true horse shoe mount that bolted to the front crossmember. I think I have one in my junk pile but would probably take too much fabrication to use on a light truck. I'd go with the Speedway mount to solve your problems.

 

[1963c-10]

While I prefer headers for both gas mileage,cruising torque[long tube or tri-y type],for what you've stated the goals for your build,mild,cruiser build of around 325 hp.,A set of 2 inch outlet manifolds would save you considerable money,and do fine here.2 1/2 would be slightly better of course on the top end of the power curve, but you've already got the 2's,ad the money could be spent on other things.Headers ,since they'd have to be custom,would likely set you back 700 plus dollars.

Thanks for the replies and help. I'll probably use the manifolds I have for now....may upgrade to a set of 2 1/2's if I can find some at a decent price. I have to rebuild the stock distributor and will have to replace the water pump as its locked up, so I agree....The header money can be better spent on other things.

 

[1963c-10]

Speedway sells a mounting kit to use with this which has cushions, bolts and steel pads to bolton or weld on the frame. There are a couple of versions.
BTW, the big trucks used a true horse shoe mount that bolted to the front crossmember. I think I have one in my junk pile but would probably take too much fabrication to use on a light truck. I'd go with the Speedway mount to solve your problems.

Thanks for the reply. I saw on Speedways site where they have the "cushions", and am waiting on their tech dept to get back with me on the frame mounts. I should know more by Monday. Although I have owned close to 20 60-66 c-10's, this is the 1st without a 230, 250 or sbc in it. I've never owned a larger series (40-80), so I'm unfamiliar with the frames and mounts. Looks like the horseshoe mount is the way to go....and hopefully one step closer to getting this old 348 up and running.

 

[1963c-10]

Thanks for all the help guys. I know this is an untypical build for this site, but I'm glad the site is here as its already been a wealth of knowledge on the engine and fitment issues. I'm very versed on the 60-66 c-10's, but the cars and 348/409's are totally new to me. And it makes me even more excited to get this truck running with this engine!!!!

 

[Don Jacks]

No problem,we like "untypical" builds.We even have a member or two with "W's" in a Corviar! It dosen't get much more untypical than that!

 

[1963c-10]

No problem,we like "untypical" builds.We even have a member or two with "W's" in a Corviar! It dosen't get much more untypical than that!

Now that does sound interesting. I'm sure I'll have tons more to ask as I go along with it all. Does anyone on the board rebuild distributors? I have the original and I'd like to be able to reuse it if possible...the water pump is locked up and probably easier to replace.

 

[EZ Cool]

Edelbrock makes an aluminum 409 water pump. Speedway sells them.

 

[64ss409]

The Chevy "horse shoe" mount used on the heavy series trucks would not work on yours. It mounts to a cross member in front of the engine which I don't see in your photo. The after market one shown above looks like a good way to go.
Chevy heavy truck type horse shoe mount below

 

[Mearl]

I know the big trucks are different, but can you post a pic of the mount/exhaust set up in your 80 series truck.

And by the way....great looking rig. Was looking at your thread a few weeks ago. Do you get on the 67-72 or stovebolt forums?

I'll see if I can get under the truck to get a picture or two. Yes, I've been a member at the Stove bolt page for several years as well as a member of the American Truck Historical Society (ATHS)for almost 20 years.

 

[1963c-10]

Thanks for all the input guys. I'll know more once the mount shows up.

 

[1963c-10]

A front mount which is still available for some engine could probably be redrilled to fit the 409 and would clear up the sides.


View attachment 26717

Does the horseshoe mount allow you to run a mechanical fuel pump?

 

[chevymusclecars]

Early Corvettes used the same type mount and a mechanical fuel pump. I have used that type mount on small block engines with a fuel pump so I would think the 348 should be Ok.

Bill

 

[1963c-10]

I tried last mocking the mount last night and the fuel pump will not clear the mount. I did some research online and found several NOS hurst mounts. They show using a spacer between the mount and the block. I'm guessing this is to allow clearance for the fuel pump. I can easily make a few thick spacers that'll work.

 

[k9hotrodder409]

I tried last mocking the mount last night and the fuel pump will not clear the mount. I did some research online and found several NOS hurst mounts. They show using a spacer between the mount and the block. I'm guessing this is to allow clearance for the fuel pump. I can easily make a few thick spacers that'll work.View attachment 26858 View attachment 26859

That Hurst front mount is what I used on my '57 Worked very well.

 

[1963c-10]

That Hurst front mount is what I used on my '57 Worked very well.View attachment 27889

So I'm guessing the spacers gave you enough clearance for the mechanical fuel pump?

 

[chevymusclecars]

I don't remember spacers but then again if I thought that is what I needed I would have just installed them. How much room do you need to pass the pump?

 

[k9hotrodder409]

So I'm guessing the spacers gave you enough clearance for the mechanical fuel pump?

Those spacers you are looking at are the original Tri-5 front motor mounts. I an using an electric pump behind the rear bumper. Works well for me.
Go to builds and projects "Joint Venture rebuild" to see what I did