Your other foot is supposed to be the heavy one Ricky...My latest dilemma...
Looks like a fresh break to me.
why not 8 3/4 Chrysler spiders and 28 spline axles with bearing caps. The unit I got form MHRP lasted 3 runs, but the issue was the Yukon gear spiders gears and a lot run that was in the market place. I was able to replace the spider gears from a guy that was aware of issue. I have it set up with 4:11 gear and run two combinations of tires.
1. bias 8.00x 14 x 28 inch tall 14.0? at 100-101
2. radial 225 70 14 .. 26.5 inch tall 14.teens? at 99-100
interesting thought... with the original 3:70 pumpkin and cast axles
3. radial 225 70 14 .. 26.5 inch tall best ever et 13.84 Thompson Ohio best overall performance 13.99 @102.5 Pure stock drags
I tried welding it back together again last night, but couldn't get any weld on the backside, so it just pulled back out... Will probably do something like Kevin's suggestion...Ricky,
That happened to me on the way home from the track one night, street racing on the way home. Solution, pull inner fender, drill hole in bracket that is left on frame, grind smooth the sharp end and reinstall, now the stud is surrounded. Been about 7 years no issue. Did I explain that correctly?
Quik9r
Just buy a new one! Plug weld through the holes and also run two vertical beads along the edges of the bracket. Slap some paint on it and call it good
http://www.show-cars.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=action&key=3890
Got it back together last night... Fixed it like Kevin suggested... Seemed to be the quickest fix for now.. If that doesn't hold up, I'll probably put a new one on....
Photos Ricky??????
Steve
So your cross shaft will now be 1/2" or so rearward - - just make up the difference with the threaded adjustment on the linkage rods? Are both the pedal to Z-bar and the Z-bar to fork rod threaded? (Should have looked at Paul's pictures before asking that one.)At the break grind it smooth. Then drill a 3/8 hole in the center of bracket about 1/4" inward , so there is material surrounding the complete stud. Not a u shape like the factory. The only reason to remove the inner fender for me was to make a clean 90 degree angle with the drill bit. Most guys I am sure have a 90 degree drill I didn't at the time. Any better on the description?
Quik9r
61 has a D shaped hole on the end of the upper pushrod at the bellcrank so there is no adjustment like the 62 upper pushrod that has a threaded end at the bellcrank.So your cross shaft will now be 1/2" or so rearward - - just make up the difference with the threaded adjustment on the linkage rods? Are both the pedal to Z-bar and the Z-bar to fork rod threaded? (Should have looked at Paul's pictures before asking that one.)