Rear differential
- Thread starter carlos.m
- Start date
Can you elaborate, what did they have?
59 - 64 used the 10 bolt banjo type rear end, with the removable centre, similar to the ford 9" but not as strong
Keep in mind the stock rearend will handle quite a lot. It’s also incredibly obvious it’s easy to tear up with more than 425-475/500 engine hp. The better the rear tire bite the easier it is to destroy.
Ask me how I know.
If you are using your car for more street driving you are probably ok. If you are going racing with serious engine hp, big wide tires, etc I would change it, otherwise not necessary.
Back in the 60’s we were only allowed 7” wide rear tires. It was extremely difficult to destroy with those little things. Just look at all the many national events won by 7” tires and stock rear ends. Some really good et’s.
Personally, it wasn’t until bigger tires got us better bites did we throw lots of parts on the ground.
Ask me how I know.
If you are using your car for more street driving you are probably ok. If you are going racing with serious engine hp, big wide tires, etc I would change it, otherwise not necessary.
Back in the 60’s we were only allowed 7” wide rear tires. It was extremely difficult to destroy with those little things. Just look at all the many national events won by 7” tires and stock rear ends. Some really good et’s.
Personally, it wasn’t until bigger tires got us better bites did we throw lots of parts on the ground.
Fuzz1957
Well Known Member
All stock full size Chevy 55-64 rearends were 8.2. They don’t interchange with other makes of rearends. They came as either “open” or “positraction“ in many different gear ratios.
Fuzz
As Pat says above..."the more rear bite the easier it is to destroy. "
I beat the crap out of my car on the street power shifting all the time ect.....340 Hp/409 4 speed/posi....but the tires didn't bite enough to hurt anything.
Beat it like a rented Mule.....
I beat the crap out of my car on the street power shifting all the time ect.....340 Hp/409 4 speed/posi....but the tires didn't bite enough to hurt anything.
Beat it like a rented Mule.....
And how would you know that Skip???
Dave, not lying, as a 19 year old kid, I ruined a rearend, every couple weeks.
Where I worked, we got paid every two weeks. I just hit Dad up, for the $ 25.00, to get another rear, from Mr. Taylor's junk yard. My buddy and I worked 1 1/2 hours, putting the replacement rear, in my car. We had plans to make it, to Lebanon Valley Speedway.
After we finished, and got cleaned up, I backed my car out of the yard, said goodbye to Dad. Don't know why, I did it,
but it was a Show off burnout. Immediately I heard that noise.
I barely got the car, out of the street, and back in the yard. My Father looks at me, and says, "I can't believe what I just seen you do". "Looks like you'll be taking the bus to work, for the next two weeks." 
WTF
Where I worked, we got paid every two weeks. I just hit Dad up, for the $ 25.00, to get another rear, from Mr. Taylor's junk yard. My buddy and I worked 1 1/2 hours, putting the replacement rear, in my car. We had plans to make it, to Lebanon Valley Speedway. After we finished, and got cleaned up, I backed my car out of the yard, said goodbye to Dad. Don't know why, I did it, but it was a Show off burnout. Immediately I heard that noise. I barely got the car, out of the street, and back in the yard. My Father looks at me, and says, "I can't believe what I just seen you do". "Looks like you'll be taking the bus to work, for the next two weeks." WTF
I carried spare spider gears in the glove box of my 55.
Keep in mind that the tri-five Chevy's rear-end and Corvettes of the same era shared a center section that will bolt in with no mods. They also had a few different gear selections in those years too. Just incase you happen across someone with a large selection of center sections for those cars. I run a 3.70 gear from a Tri-five in my 64' wagon. Pulled the 3.24 Posi ring and pin out and calculated a 3.70 or 3.73 would be best for my build. Found a nice 3.70 and dropped it in. Also keep in mind the different series of center cases and gear selections don't always have the clearance needed for certain gears. Too many variables to really go into here but if You find a center section with the gears you want, you may need to use that center section case and not swap gears or risk running a spacer or having to grind on the case to get the internals to fit. Lots to consider.
Skip FIx
Well Known Member
I can tell you even slightly sticky tires and a rear gear spacer plate do not go good with a 5000 side step! But I think after I got a thich gear pumpkin the aluminum flywheel cushioned the hit so no problems with close to 400 hp.
You can upgrade factory posis with 30 spline side gears for a Dana, not sure if there are any that fit the new Eaton. But you still have a 17 spline pinion gear. I know some folks swap out the Vette pumpkin to 12 bolt gears, not sure if that would work on our pumpkins.
You can upgrade factory posis with 30 spline side gears for a Dana, not sure if there are any that fit the new Eaton. But you still have a 17 spline pinion gear. I know some folks swap out the Vette pumpkin to 12 bolt gears, not sure if that would work on our pumpkins.
Granted I only have a 340 hp, you all have a bunch more horses, but I do have somewhat sticky tires and a ring gear spacer behind 4.11s. I've been pounding this car since Oct 1963 and have only broken 3 left side stock axles, twisted one left side Dutchman axle, and broke the spiders out of the posi once.
What size are your M/T?