Recent content by ssleeper

Bump - obo.

Driver quality, not perfect, but better than most Ive seen. Some speckling, very few minor dings/scratches, no cracks that I see. Above average caps but not show quality. $250 Please send a direct message with any questions. Shipping is included in the lower 48 states. PayPal friends and...

I have not done a test when cold, but I did a 4th test this afternoon because the theory of an internal leak was nagging at me. Drumroll please.... The first three times I did the combustion test, the fluid didn't change, or did't change enough for me to notice a difference. This time I took...

:cool: hey no worries. Yes, all the thermostats I've tried were installed correctly, thermo 'sensor' end down into the intake. I just drained all the coolant, hooked up the garden hose and flushed the system both ways. Nothing came out as I expected. I checked the passages coming out of the...

:dunno2 but if it's bad I'll let the garbage man decide that. :D No, they are Howards hyd rollers. I have, see post #15.

But I should add that with the coolant level slightly low and the rad cap on, the upper hose would suck flat when I revved the engine, indicating the pump is trying to pull coolant from the bottom of the radiator against a closed thermostat. The upper hose has not ever sucked flat with the...

I can't put the mech sender there due to the size of the fitting, but I did have the electric sensor there for a while and I saw the same temp spikes, just like it's doing now. Plus, the average temp reported was higher in the head, so rather than setting the fan temps differently than the mech...

After it goes through it's warm up cycle and temps go erratic, sometimes as high as 240 degrees (260 was a few years ago before I pulled the engine for a rebuild), the temp will then go down to 180 and remain there whether it's idling in the garage or out on the freeway. The erratic readings...

As credited to Sherlock Holmes..."when you have eliminated the impossible, whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth." :think Yes, the cap is a 13# bypass type, verified to be working. The system expels ~3/4 of a quart to the overflow tank and then sucks it back up as it cools...

No worries. I believe I used a dab of Permatex thread sealant instead of tape, and I believe I only used it on the reducer bushing for the mechanical sensor bulb and not on the electric sender threads. Is there a reason I would only see a fluctuation over 180 degrees though if tape or sealant...

I've considered it, but the temp swings so erratic and quickly, it almost seems like localized boiling in the sensor area, even though all surrounding areas test between 160 and 180 degrees at the same time. As I understand the flow path, the coolant goes in the block, up to the heads, then out...

I don't recall checking for it specifically before installing it (that was a year ago now) but I'll assume yes based on the pictures on the Summit site. It's Proform #67265. Yesterday I let it run for almost an hour with the Lisle air bleed funnel, let it cool off completely, and went for a...

'69 or '70. It has the bypass. I thought so too, but I've run two combustion gas tests with the blue liquid and they did not change color either time. Plus, the heads are new AFRs and the block was zero decked last year, put together with cometic gaskets and arp hardware. I was thinking maybe...

Another update... Picked up a Stant Superstat 160 and 180, tested both in boiling water and both are working normally. Decided to put in the 160 since the car will run at 180 with no stat at all. I figured a 160 will give itself a bit more time to full open before the temps skyrocket, hopefully...

Update...sorry, it's a long rambling story, but I'm putting it in here in case anyone else has similar issues and does a search... Thanks for all the suggestions and ideas everyone. Having the water returning from the heater core and messing with the gauge does't make sense to me because the...