HemiChallenger71
Well Known Member
Is the siezed 235 or 3 on the tree of any value whatsoever? I was just going to use it as a core for my LS.
1959 Turbo LS build
- Thread starter HemiChallenger71
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If the frame and rockers are solid, you are good to go.
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Sounds like that was a typical leaky window 59 if the frame and rockers are that good. They have a weird drain setup under the stainless windshield and back glass trim. They have channels there that the rain water enters and then rubber drain tubes that drain the water from there. The rubber rots, the drains stop draining, plus the channels fill with leaves and dirt, then water gets into the trunk and floorpans.
A 59 2 door post will be worth some money when done, haven't seen any cheap 2 door 59's.
Don
A 59 2 door post will be worth some money when done, haven't seen any cheap 2 door 59's.
Don
HemiChallenger71
Well Known Member
Got some good suspension ideas at milan today from the only stock suspension x-frame car out there. Metco control arms and a splined sway bar mounted above the axle on the rectangle tube in the pics (hard to see). This car had zero control arm mount bracing and the ENTIRE bottom of the x frame tunnel was cut out for the 1 piece shaft. No frame reinforcements except the center tunnel inside and outside the frame around the drive shaft.
Not the greatest set-up frame wise but I loved the sway bar.
Not the greatest set-up frame wise but I loved the sway bar.
Not sure of what he accomplished with this
I have Metco lowers and really like them, but I am not a fan of their upper arms for 59-64's. I'd look to UMI's double adjustable uppers if it's going to be street driven.....or if it's track only - Air Ride's that has rod ends, or just buy some rod ends and tubing and build some.
Brian, It's hard to see, but it is an anti-sway bar similar to the one you use to keep your launch level/straight. You mounted yours in front of the axle and higher up. Yours is a much cleaner set-up in my opinion, but both would work.Not sure of what he accomplished with this
HemiChallenger71
Well Known Member
I thought UMI's stuff well... was the ebay special junk.
I read somewhere using rod-ends elminates a lot of stress on the control arm mounting points. Is this true?
The extra upper is pretty much mandatory correct? Does everyones left side upper sit kind of funny like the one on the 9in. in my pics?
I read somewhere using rod-ends elminates a lot of stress on the control arm mounting points. Is this true?
The extra upper is pretty much mandatory correct? Does everyones left side upper sit kind of funny like the one on the 9in. in my pics?
UMI makes quality parts.
Rod ends may eliminate some stress, but they won't last as long for a daily driver. You'll be getting dirt and grime up in there and destroying them. Bushings are mush more durable in the long run.
I wouldn't say the 4th link is mandatory, but it's a good (and cheap) upgrade. They often sit a little "off" due to the center of housings not being symmetrical. That's true for any of them whether stock rearend, 9" or 12 bolt. There will be slight differences in the left side vs. the right and that effects where the bracket will mount to it.
I have not heard of many having trouble with the control arm mounting points on our cars like people have with others (Fox body mustangs for example are known to rip control arm mounting points right off the body.) Some strengthening like Brian did on his 61 Biscayne surely can't hurt.
Rod ends may eliminate some stress, but they won't last as long for a daily driver. You'll be getting dirt and grime up in there and destroying them. Bushings are mush more durable in the long run.
I wouldn't say the 4th link is mandatory, but it's a good (and cheap) upgrade. They often sit a little "off" due to the center of housings not being symmetrical. That's true for any of them whether stock rearend, 9" or 12 bolt. There will be slight differences in the left side vs. the right and that effects where the bracket will mount to it.
I have not heard of many having trouble with the control arm mounting points on our cars like people have with others (Fox body mustangs for example are known to rip control arm mounting points right off the body.) Some strengthening like Brian did on his 61 Biscayne surely can't hurt.
I don't run the extra upper bar, although I have the Global West frame braces on both sides in case I ever want to add it.
I use Global West lowers and their single upper with a bushing on one end and a rod end on the other and adjustable front mounting height.
Also, their adjustable panhard bar more or less set level at normal ride height.
So far, so good. I run a little preload in the form of partial spring rubbers in the right rear.
I use Global West lowers and their single upper with a bushing on one end and a rod end on the other and adjustable front mounting height.
Also, their adjustable panhard bar more or less set level at normal ride height.
So far, so good. I run a little preload in the form of partial spring rubbers in the right rear.
HemiChallenger71
Well Known Member
Any recommended places for floor pans and sheet metal?
Sherman and cars inc are local to me. Shermans web site is down at the moment.
Sherman and cars inc are local to me. Shermans web site is down at the moment.
Well it would be hard not to use one of those local places to save a ton on shipping if their prices are competitive (and they should be) but if you are going to order them from somewhere I'd highly recommend sending a PM to Phil. He's probably a little busy with Convention aftermath, but he'll get back to you soon.
HemiChallenger71
Well Known Member
I guess I should clarify, is there any difference in brands/manufactures quality wise?
My guess is a lot of places selling sheet metal probably get it from sherman anyway.
My guess is a lot of places selling sheet metal probably get it from sherman anyway.
I saw a debate on this recently, but not sure what was decided.
HemiChallenger71
Well Known Member
I just recently considered another option. Buying a complete trailblazer or envoy 2wd and swap the 4200 and trans and wiring/computer into my car. They can be had cheap and the 4200 can be built up a little bit or turbo charged. Make it more of a daily driver than shoot for 10sec. time slips.
I wouldn't do either, but of the two plans I think you could put a junkyard 4.8L or 5.3L in there for a lot less than the 4200. Then you'd have more initial power whether naturally aspirated or with forced induction. More potential to grow as well. Unless things have changed recently the 5.3L is cheaper than a 4.8L in the junkyard due to volume. They are cheaper than a small block....even an old 305.
HemiChallenger71
Well Known Member
Wrecked running 2wd trailblazers are in the 700-1500 range.
I stand corrected. Still would have to stick with the V8 just for the growth potential.
HemiChallenger71
Well Known Member
Agreed on the growth for the v-8.
Theres a couple guys locally that have 4200 swapped cars with small single turbos. One is in the 11's with mph for the 10's. Everything is bone stock save for the turbo injectors and fabbed intake/exhaust manifolds. Still controlling them with the factory ecm's.
Speed and e/t's aside, the 4200 would be more of a daily driver and the ls would end up being more of a hot rod. The car had a 235 originally too. A 4200 would be different and not so cookie cutter.
Theres a couple guys locally that have 4200 swapped cars with small single turbos. One is in the 11's with mph for the 10's. Everything is bone stock save for the turbo injectors and fabbed intake/exhaust manifolds. Still controlling them with the factory ecm's.
Speed and e/t's aside, the 4200 would be more of a daily driver and the ls would end up being more of a hot rod. The car had a 235 originally too. A 4200 would be different and not so cookie cutter.
Does your 59' have the cross member in the back were the upper control arm mounts? I know that some of the early 59's didn't have it. If not I would add it. Also this brings up another subject. The rear cross where the upper control arm mounts on the left side is stamped out on the cross but is 1" further inboard then the right and why it looks different.