Distributor

[skipxt4]

Carmine: Leo, and Bill, gave very good explanations. If you have a new 409 "resistor" and matching harness, and still want to have the resistor, for originality sake, you can hook up both resistor wires to the top terminal of the resistor. It will not be functional. That way, no wires are dangling, or look out of place. . The 2 Distributor wires go to the + and - terminals of the coil, along with the other 12 volt wire, that originally went to the + side of the coil. Very easy hook up. You won't regret using the Petronix. It is very well made, and performs like they claim.

 

[Carmine]

Carmine: Leo, and Bill, gave very good explanations. If you have a new 409 "resistor" and matching harness, and still want to have the resistor, for originality sake, you can hook up both resistor wires to the top terminal of the resistor. It will not be functional. That way, no wires are dangling, or look out of place. . The 2 Distributor wires go to the + and - terminals of the coil, along with the other 12 volt wire, that originally went to the + side of the coil. Very easy hook up. You won't regret using the Petronix. It is very well made, and performs like they claim.

I thought I understood this, but maybe not. Please be patient with me. I'm almost positive that my car originated as a 283 automatic. Presently, there is a new resistor on the firewall that I replaced the old one with. There are 2 wires that come out of the firewall and combine to be one. One of them had like a cloth covering/insulation. They both are attached to the top post of the resistor. Nothing on the bottom post yet. I think the Pertronix distributor comes with 2 wires. One goes to the plus side of the coil and the other to the negative side. There is mention made in the above thread of another 12v wire that originally went to the plus side of the coil. Where did this wire come from?? Is it something I have to make myself?? Does this wire go on the plus side of the coil and then can be united with the 2 wires on the top post of the resistor?? I might also add that the engine I pulled out, had a Mallory distributor with I believe a Unilite module inside. Thanks for everyone's understanding. Some stuff I just seem to struggle terribly with, Carmine.

 

[skipxt4]

The other wire, come from the wire harness, and was originally connected to the + plus side of the coil. This is your 12 volts. If one of the wires, on the resistor, were connected to the bottom screw, also, you will only have 7 volts going to the coil.

 

[62impala409]

That cloth covered wire is the resistor wire that supplies the 7 volts to the points. That wire will not be used. Tape it up and hide it in the wiring harness. The second wire on the + side of the coil comes from the "R" terminal on the starter solenoid. This wire is there to provide a full 12 volts to the ignition coil while cranking over the engine to aid in starting. After the engine fires, the starter disengages and the coil voltage drops back to 7 volts. That starter wire to the coil won't be used with the Pertronix system. When you get the engine back in, we can help you sort this all out.

 

[skipxt4]

The wire with the cloth covering, IS the resistor wire. Like Leo mentioned, in another post, remove this wire and replace it with stranded wire, or purchase a new engine harness.

 

[skipxt4]

Sorry Leo, we must have been typing at the same time.

 

[Carmine]

That cloth covered wire is the resistor wire that supplies the 7 volts to the points. That wire will not be used. Tape it up and hide it in the wiring harness. The second wire on the + side of the coil comes from the "R" terminal on the starter solenoid. This wire is there to provide a full 12 volts to the ignition coil while cranking over the engine to aid in starting. After the engine fires, the starter disengages and the coil voltage drops back to 7 volts. That starter wire to the coil won't be used with the Pertronix system. When you get the engine back in, we can help you sort this all out.

Thanks for the offer. I'm going to need it. Let me ask this so that I totally confuse myself. I understand how the 2 wires (hope there are only 2) from Pertonix distributor hook up to the coil. Setting aside these 2 existing wires that come through the firewall and are presently attached to the top of the resistor, not using either of these at all, would I be looking for a switched 12v wire to hook to the positive side of the coil?? Thanks, Carmine.

 

[62impala409]

Yes a switched 12 volt wire is necessary, butttttttttttttttt, it also has to retain the 12 volts of power while the engine is cranking over. At some power feeds/taps, that is not always the case. As far as the 2 wires for the Pertronix, the red wire to the coil + terminal is 12 volt power to the module in the dist. and the black wire is the signal wire for the coil to fire.

 

[Carmine]

Yes a switched 12 volt wire is necessary, butttttttttttttttt, it also has to retain the 12 volts of power while the engine is cranking over. At some power feeds/taps, that is not always the case. As far as the 2 wires for the Pertronix, the red wire to the coil + terminal is 12 volt power to the module in the dist. and the black wire is the signal wire for the coil to fire.

Thank you. Guess I'm getting closer to understanding this. One more question for tonight and that's all because I'm getting a serious headache as probably many of you are. The switched 12v wire that has to maintain the 12v's while the engine is cranking, where in the engine harness or dash harness would I find this wire that I could tap into?? What on a car would a wire like this normally feed/service?? Thank you everyone very much and have a good evening, Carmine.

 

[62impala409]

The easiest way is to find the ignition wire on back of the ignition switch where the special resistor wire is attached. Remove the resistor wire and replace it with a regular wire of about 16 ga. to the coil. Problem solved.

 

[DonSSDD]

Carmine, stock small blocks and 409's/348's all had points and a resister that dropped the voltage from 12 to 7 volts. The resisters were all wired to the key, so only powered when the key was on.

With small blocks, the resister was in the harness, a piece of the wiring it went from the ignition switch directly to the plus side of the coil.

With W's (and some high performance vette small blocks), they had a stock wire from the ignition into the external ballast resister, then out of that to the plus side of the coil.

Every Chevy had one setup or the other for the resister.

You said you had 2 wires coming out of the fire wall into your resister, could be that is a stock resister wire and a direct full 12 volt wire someone added? Maybe they were running 12V to what was there before?

Just turn on the key and measure the voltage you have coming in there now, it may already be 12V.

Don

 

[64ss409]

If there is no load on the resistor wire, it will still show 12v on a voltmeter. Probably best to identify by looking at it. It will not be copper like the other wires.

 

[Don Jacks]

The best that I can remember,on the plus side of the coil,on small block cars,if you look at the coil attaching terminal,you'll notice that there are 2 wires merged into that connector.one wire will be a normally insulated wire,the other will have a cloth looking insulator.The normally insulated wire will go down to the "r" terminal on the starter solonid,supplying battery voltage to the coil during cranking.The other wire is the resistor wire that runs between the coil terminal,and the bulkhead connector on the firewall.You'll need to untape the wiring harness,replace the resistor wire with a solid wire,and retape the harness[it could likely need this bit of dress up anyway].When your ignition switch is in the start or"crank" position power is only supplied to the "s" terminal on the starter solonid in order to conserve battery voltage ,directing what is not being used by the largest drain on the battery in the car,the starter,to the ignition system.The resistor wire will only get voltage applied when the ignition switch is in the "run" position,and has been noted,will not reduce the voltage until loaded by the coil.I hope that my memory is correct,and that this is of some help.

 

[Carmine]

Everyone has been super helpful and I do appreciate it. I've read all of these threads several times trying to understand and absorb what us written. I think my best approach would be to start at the ignition switch. Identify the resistor wire and disconnect it. Run a new wire from that ignition switch location to the top of my resistor. Disconnect the existing 2 wires into one at the top of the resistor and tape them into the harness, not using either. Connect the new wire from the switch into the top position. Once the distributor and coil are installed, run a wire from the plus side of the coil, to the top of the resistor where the new wire is. I think that is my understanding and hope it is correct, Carmine.

 

[62impala409]

You are on the correct path now, Carmine. Carry on.

 

[models916]

In the old days, I jumped my resistor wire to the 12v cranking wire at the starter. Hooked up as normal.

 

[skipxt4]

Everyone has been super helpful and I do appreciate it. I've read all of these threads several times trying to understand and absorb what us written. I think my best approach would be to start at the ignition switch. Identify the resistor wire and disconnect it. Run a new wire from that ignition switch location to the top of my resistor. Disconnect the existing 2 wires into one at the top of the resistor and tape them into the harness, not using either. Connect the new wire from the switch into the top position. Once the distributor and coil are installed, run a wire from the plus side of the coil, to the top of the resistor where the new wire is. I think that is my understanding and hope it is correct, Carmine.

OR, disconnect the harness, from the firewall plug and bring in house, where it's warm. Strip some insulation off the resistor wire, and find where it begins, in the harness. R&R with a stranded piece, of the same diameter. Strip the wires, put a piece of shrink tubing on the wire, twist them together tightly, and solder. Slide the shrink tubing over the two soldered wires and heat with flame or heat gun. Retape the harness, leaving a four or five inch piece hanging out, and solder a wire connector, on the wire, with another piece of shrink tubing. Oh, if you use a ring terminal, for the wire, make sure it fits over the stud, on the coil, before you solder it. Piece of cake, Carmine. You can do it.

 

[Carmine]

I was just browsing through the 62's on ebay and saw a black one that you know has been beautifully restored correctly. In the engine compartment, there was a light yellow/red clothed wire that came through the firewall and went directly to the coil. I believe it is that resistor wire. No signs of any resistor on this car either. I hope to be able to strip some insulation/tape from my wiring today and also partially remove the ignition switch. Will post some pics if I get that far, Carmine.

 

[chevymusclecars]

If this is the picture you are talking about, the only Black 409 I see, the wires that are loose is where someone ran individual wires for the tach anc tach unit.

 

[Carmine]

No, not the pic. The one on ebay is a black '62 with red interior, 3 on the tree and a 327 engine. To me, it is an outstanding car. I believe the above is the "W" engine.