Replacing fuel line 63 impala

Red 409 63 impala

Well Known Member
Looking into replacing the fuel line from the carb to the tank. The original appears to be 3/8 inch. Has any one replaced the front section? It appears to be necessary to go under the upper suspension arm and it is a tight fit. What would be the best way to replace it ?
 

drc409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
The only way I found to do it was to remove shock & spring; may be the upper control arm. Don't totally remember though. It was a long, long time ago.:bang
 

Mearl

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 6
I did mine with the body off, it was easy! Since I was building it as a 409 car, I used the correct 3/8"fuel line and clips. I think I got them from Show Cars but it was several years ago.
 

drc409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
My body was off as well but I had put my front suspension together before installing fuel line. I found no way to install line under the upper control arm once it was installed --- but I was (really still am) a real novice.
 

DonSSDD

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
I managed to squeeze it in with a bit of persuasion with the body on and the suspension together.
 

Red 409 63 impala

Well Known Member
I have the engine out of the car. Have a 409 to install but am trying to plan everything out. Looks like getting the line in without ruining is almost impossible. I have the lines ( 3 pieces ). I will route the lines with the factory lines that are bent to factory specs. The other thing I noticed is there is a fuel line frame clamp under the upper control arm. Not good.
 

Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
If this isn't a "numbers matching" type of deal,or it'sgoing to go out and "play" some,RE-ROUTE your portion of your fuel line to outside the frame,as opposed to the factory routing right next to that drive shaft as a matter of safety.
 

Carmine

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 10
I have the engine out of the car. Have a 409 to install but am trying to plan everything out. Looks like getting the line in without ruining is almost impossible. I have the lines ( 3 pieces ). I will route the lines with the factory lines that are bent to factory specs. The other thing I noticed is there is a fuel line frame clamp under the upper control arm. Not good.

I have to admit, that I've always been a big proponent of buying a coil or straight steel lines and bending, flaring them myself for fuel lines. When I put the 409 in my '62, I did something different. I bought the lines already bent from ShowCars and I'm glad I did. I think there were three pieces. I installed them as per instructions which included going through the driveshaft tunnel. Guess I really never though much about the safety of it. This was about 2 years ago and my recall isn't the greatest. I had rebuilt my entire front end and had it all back together. I looked at the piece that goes underneath the upper control arm and thought you have to be kidding me. There was no way I was taking this apart. I do recall struggling with this piece but I did get it in place. Don't hold me to this, but I thought there were two fuel line hold down brackets in this area. One I could get to, the other not. I believe I redrilled the one bracket location, moving it out further so that I could use the bracket. Looks like it belongs there. I should also add that I had the car on the lift. I jacked up the front tire as high as it could reasonable go. That raised the upper control arm and gave me a little extra clearance for working the line in. At least that is what my limited recollection tells me, Carmine.
 

ragtp66

Well Known Member
I ran into the same dilemma on my 58. I just ended up breaking loose the upper ball joint loose and lifting up the upper A-arm and installing the fuel line. I strapped the floor jack to the lower A-arm and kept the coil spring and shock in place.
 

Carmine

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 10
What I found strange about routing this line under the upper control arm, is that with a real good bump, it looked like the control arm might make contact with the line; possibly kinking or even severing it. When I got everything done, I put the car on the ground and bounced the right front as best I could. I tried to simulate a real bad bump. I didn't hear or feel anything. Put the car back up and checked the line as best possible. Didn't see any signs of contact, Carmine.
 

blkblk63ss

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 5
What I found strange about routing this line under the upper control arm, is that with a real good bump, it looked like the control arm might make contact with the line; possibly kinking or even severing it. When I got everything done, I put the car on the ground and bounced the right front as best I could. I tried to simulate a real bad bump. I didn't hear or feel anything. Put the car back up and checked the line as best possible. Didn't see any signs of contact, Carmine.
If you are worried about clearance just jack up front center of frame and this let's the upper a arm come down to hit the rubber bump stop and check the clearance .If you mounted line as factory locating clip's location you should not have any issue's. As far as getting in the fuel line under arm just place jack nest to wheel and separate upper ball joint and swing arm up to gain access to line clip's . Don't need to tie jack down. I don't remember any problem's getting the line's in as I think I put it in as I had frame out and assembled line then,but I don't see a big problem getting the line in since it has a rubber section close to front body mount right front and you can install that section by it self. Don,,,,, I think you worry to much. If you are not racing hard core you can put in factory location. I mounted mine factory though tunnel. I can see if you race like Ray to route different,but then you have heat factor to make sure that is not a issue either. I would think that if this was dangerous Gm would have recalled these car's year's ago on a street driven car's.I have never heard these car's catching fire's for that problem. I have seen carrier bearing 's get loose on rubber mount and drive shaft jump ,but the metal loop keep's it confined,and warn you if that happen's. I once lost a rear u joint in my then new 64 409 ,but it did not do any damage to line as was further ahead of joint, of course I was racing hard when I lost the rear joint. Every body has their own opinion's on this ,your car ,,,,,do as you want!!!:D
 

Skip FIx

Well Known Member
If this isn't a "numbers matching" type of deal,or it'sgoing to go out and "play" some,RE-ROUTE your portion of your fuel line to outside the frame,as opposed to the factory routing right next to that drive shaft as a matter of safety.
Had to do that at the track on mine in '72 to run mainly in the flywheel area they were worried about..
 

Red 409 63 impala

Well Known Member
Thanks for all the info..The people on this forum are great. I have pretty much decided on taking the control arms off as the bushing are not looking too great. Looks like the best spring compressor is the type that goes thru the center of the spring. it seems like the type that goes on the outside will not work.
 

Mearl

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 6
The through the spring compressor is the best type but they really suck to use. I bought a new one when I did my 63 and have used it many times but I'm scared every time I use it.
 

drc409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
I took advantage of Autozone's free tool use program (effectively you buy then return) and used a thru the center spring compressor with hooks on top and bottom.
 
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