Fenderwell question.....'62 Impala
- Thread starter lennyjay
- Start date
- They go in from the bottom (the only way it can work).
- Wheels must be removed.
- I assume you have the rubber flaps over the A frames and the rubber pieces that go against the frame reinstalled. They were originally installed with staples and are normally reinstalled with staples. I use the original staple holes in the inner fenders.
- The slide on mounting/clips with fixed nuts go on the fenders first -make sure they are mounted correctly.
- All the hex bolts that hold the inner fender to the fender go in from the bottom into the fixed nut clips.
- The front corner bolt on the front of the fender holds 3 items - the fender, inner fender, the front lower painted section.
- If you are using reproduction bolts the long pointed ones can hit the fender damaging your paint --at the top of the bolt on the curve of the fender can hit the painted fender. The original inner fender to fender bolts where short without pointed ends.
- Its easier to install the inner fender to the fender with the pointed bolts.
- Install the clip and bolt on the bottom of the hood hinge support before finishing bolting up the inner fender in place -so you can get it to fit.
With your front section with the headlites in place the hard part is getting the inner fenders under the front painted pan(without damaging the paint) on the inner fenders and the lower front painted section that holds the headlites. The single bolt in the front corner of the fender holding the 3 items noted above has to be removed and reinstalled to get the fender installed on top of the inner fender with the inner fender under the front lower painted section
We installed both inner fenders and then the front lower painted support "after the inner fenders" are in place. We do not have any headlites, grille on the convertible yet. (pictures available ....)
Right now the battery box will not line up with the inner fender hole. I have had this before on my 62 SS 409 Hardtop. the reproduction battery boxes are I think are not correct.
Paul
lennyjay
Well Known Member
Thanks Paul, your the man.....I think the bolts were screwed back in the under fenders...I will check the length....you would think short bolt with the point would work the best for starting the bolt back in. Also working on getting the flaps for both sides.....where did you buy yours?
Amazing........wealth of knowledge
thanks for the comment on knowledge. I really like helping when I can. A few weeks ago I got a reward for 500 likes from the forum. There are others that have many more likes than me.
On the bolts, you are correct the pointed bolts are much, much easier to install and line up with the fixed nuts on the fenders. Only one bolt at the top of the curve on each fender could get close to the back side of the fender ( I switch that bolt to a shorter one)
The last sets I/we got from Cars Inc. There are 2 part numbers for the rubber pieces. I am installing them on 2 pair of inner fenders for both cars - not my favorite thing to do
- I actually make my own staples out of stainless welding rod - so its easier to bend them on the back side and they do not rust. I also drill out slightly the original staple holes in the inner fenders to install new staples.
here are the fender seals to replace the originals that go against the frame
http://carsinc.com/seals-62-impala-inner-front-fender-11435.html
A arm seals
http://carsinc.com/seals-62-4-impala-a-frame-1395.html
Paul
On the bolts, you are correct the pointed bolts are much, much easier to install and line up with the fixed nuts on the fenders. Only one bolt at the top of the curve on each fender could get close to the back side of the fender ( I switch that bolt to a shorter one)
The last sets I/we got from Cars Inc. There are 2 part numbers for the rubber pieces. I am installing them on 2 pair of inner fenders for both cars - not my favorite thing to do
- I actually make my own staples out of stainless welding rod - so its easier to bend them on the back side and they do not rust. I also drill out slightly the original staple holes in the inner fenders to install new staples.here are the fender seals to replace the originals that go against the frame
http://carsinc.com/seals-62-impala-inner-front-fender-11435.html
A arm seals
http://carsinc.com/seals-62-4-impala-a-frame-1395.html
Paul
thanks for the comment on knowledge. I really like helping when I can. A few weeks ago I got a reward for 500 likes from the forum. There are others that have many more likes than me.
On the bolts, you are correct the pointed bolts are much, much easier to install and line up with the fixed nuts on the fenders. Only one bolt at the top of the curve on each fender could get close to the back side of the fender ( I switch that bolt to a shorter one)
The last sets I/we got from Cars Inc. There are 2 part numbers for the rubber pieces. I am installing them on 2 pair of inner fenders for both cars - not my favorite thing to do
here are the fender seals to replace the originals that go against the frame
http://carsinc.com/seals-62-impala-inner-front-fender-11435.html
A arm seals
http://carsinc.com/seals-62-4-impala-a-frame-1395.html
Paul
I like the quality of your likes........you help a lot of fellow members, it's been said here before........ the quality of the information...... the vast knowledge.......and the willingness to help other fellow members here is very inspiring. I've read posts on the sites where members are ripped on....... ridiculed .......and belittled for asking questions others consider common knowledge........you sir, along with Don Jacks and MANY others here make it a joy to be a part of this fantactic site...........I thank you and all the other's members for making all feel welcome.
Ps..........sorry bout the thread jack........
lennyjay
Well Known Member
I agree the help is very welcome. When you think of how simple a 58-64 Chevrolet is, in the way it performs, is actually very complicated with the shear number of bolts, nuts, staples, on and on. Just the way certain things must come apart, repaired, then reinstalled, to make it work again. Oh, any of us can tear into stuff, but I feel its so important to follow thru to make things work as before. The hunt is always on to find the quality parts needed so you don't need to do it again next year.......Thanks again.....
lennyjay
Well Known Member
Paul, I read your thread on making the hole in the floor for the 4-speed. Mine was a P/G and now need to cut that hole. I have the hump coming from show cars, but would like the measurements if you have them handy or maybe a photo of where things should end up. I have the downloaded manuals but have not been able to locate the page for the cut out. Please don't tear into your cars , just if you can find the information.
I also ordered the fender seals and a-arm flaps (come with staples) from Cars Inc. good prices.
Anybody can chime in with what ever information they have......thanks much.....Ken...
I also ordered the fender seals and a-arm flaps (come with staples) from Cars Inc. good prices.
Anybody can chime in with what ever information they have......thanks much.....Ken...
Those staples can be a bitch.
I modified a pair of vice grips to fold the staples in.
When I get back home I can post a picture of them if you like.
I modified a pair of vice grips to fold the staples in.
When I get back home I can post a picture of them if you like.
I like the tool for the staples. I wish I had one now...... 1 & 1/2 sets of inner fenders to do yet.
I have had to use a needle nose pliers(to bend both ends of the staples), wood blocks to hold the back side of the staples, flat end punch to bend the ends of the staples, inner fender on carpet to protect the paint/powder coat.
I also drill out the factory staple holes in the inner fender with 1/16 inch drill so the staples will fit the factory staple holes in the inner fenders. I stated before that I use welding rod and cut and bend longer staples, because I don't like how short the staples are to bend them over.
Just some more questions "to Help" on your conversion (having done 4 to 5 - 4 speed cars)
Picture of firewall in my 4 speed 62 Impala with the 61/62 cover around the 63/64 firewall seal around the column. This firewall picture also has a factory Sun tach wiring harness exiting the firewall, next to a vacuum trunk opener hole for the vacuum hose and a Power seat connector wire
Paul
I have had to use a needle nose pliers(to bend both ends of the staples), wood blocks to hold the back side of the staples, flat end punch to bend the ends of the staples, inner fender on carpet to protect the paint/powder coat.
I also drill out the factory staple holes in the inner fender with 1/16 inch drill so the staples will fit the factory staple holes in the inner fenders. I stated before that I use welding rod and cut and bend longer staples, because I don't like how short the staples are to bend them over.
Just some more questions "to Help" on your conversion (having done 4 to 5 - 4 speed cars)
- Do you have a transmission tunnel seal ? (they were used on factory 4 speeds) - You could use strip caulk -they are designed to keep water from the interior/carpet LINK: http://www.show-cars.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=action&key=2311
- Do you have the steering column under hood seal -to seal the clutch rod - I like to use the 63/64 style one like this on the column. LINK : http://www.show-cars.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=action&key=3602
- Do you have the interior steering column seal (you can cut a hole in the PG one for the clutch rod). LINK: http://www.show-cars.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=action&key=2105
- Do you want the factory clutch rod cover that goes around the clutch rod - used on all factory stick cars in 1961 and 1962 LINK: http://www.show-cars.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=action&key=5640
Picture of firewall in my 4 speed 62 Impala with the 61/62 cover around the 63/64 firewall seal around the column. This firewall picture also has a factory Sun tach wiring harness exiting the firewall, next to a vacuum trunk opener hole for the vacuum hose and a Power seat connector wire
Paul
Thanks Paul, just picked up on the "clutch rod cover that goes around the clutch rod", which i hadn't picked up on previously.
Gav
I have a pair of flat nose pliers that are the exact width of the factory staples. I use them to bend stainless wire for staples.
Just to add to the "too long fender bolts". I grind off the point and paint the bare end black. I start the inner install with another set of pointed bolts for ease of alignment and only thread them half way in. Once ALL the bolts are in place, I remove them 1 at a time and replace with the shortened bolts for final fitment and tightening.
A long, tapered drift in the nuts/fender holes helps to pull the inner around while getting the bolts started without cross threading them.
LA Hot Rod...that staple crimper is waaaay cool. Do you rent that out, or make them to sell ? I have 5 cars that I will need to putting seals on and am not looking forward to because of those infernal staples.
A long, tapered drift in the nuts/fender holes helps to pull the inner around while getting the bolts started without cross threading them.
LA Hot Rod...that staple crimper is waaaay cool. Do you rent that out, or make them to sell ? I have 5 cars that I will need to putting seals on and am not looking forward to because of those infernal staples.