Valve cover gaskets
- Thread starter Carmine
- Start date
Thanks Cecil. I appreciate the suggestion.
Don, in re. to your thread #37, just did a little experiment in the garage. I coated the top of every rocker nut with a thin coating of white lithium grease. I then placed an old valve cover gasket onto the head. I put the valve cover onto the gasket and pressed down. I did not bolt the cover tight. I removed the cover and there was a slight amount of white grease in the two problem areas. No grease elsewhere on the cover. Cleaned it and did it a second time with the same results. So what I'm thinking is that if the nuts were cut the clearance from the other 6 rocker nuts to the valve cover would still be good; no contact. Would that be correct?? Or better yet, take off the 2 problem nuts, simulating that they had been cut, and then try the valve cover. If grease appears elsewhere, then cutting the nuts would be out of the question. Oh boy. I'm developing a serious head ache from all this. The pics I'm posting are of the rockers that someone requested, my experiment and how the choke housing sits on the carb. I don't know as if I am any further ahead as to what I want to do. Going to be a long night. I think I need some of Beethoven's 5th myself, Carmine.
Don, in re. to your thread #37, just did a little experiment in the garage. I coated the top of every rocker nut with a thin coating of white lithium grease. I then placed an old valve cover gasket onto the head. I put the valve cover onto the gasket and pressed down. I did not bolt the cover tight. I removed the cover and there was a slight amount of white grease in the two problem areas. No grease elsewhere on the cover. Cleaned it and did it a second time with the same results. So what I'm thinking is that if the nuts were cut the clearance from the other 6 rocker nuts to the valve cover would still be good; no contact. Would that be correct?? Or better yet, take off the 2 problem nuts, simulating that they had been cut, and then try the valve cover. If grease appears elsewhere, then cutting the nuts would be out of the question. Oh boy. I'm developing a serious head ache from all this. The pics I'm posting are of the rockers that someone requested, my experiment and how the choke housing sits on the carb. I don't know as if I am any further ahead as to what I want to do. Going to be a long night. I think I need some of Beethoven's 5th myself, Carmine.
I know thick gaskets would do it, but I just hate parting with the factory choke. Maybe I won't be able to have the best of both worlds, Carmine.
Junky
Well Known Member
I would be very hesitant to go cutting the nuts. The holding ability of the nut is determined by the amount of threads that are engaged with the stud. If you reduce the number of threads that the nut engages, then the tension on the nut, might strip out the threads, and you will have a nut floating around the valve train that can do some serious damage. I did notice that you are not using all of the threads, however, by design the height of the nut is also considered in the total strength of the nut, even though some of the threads aren't engaged. Before I would modify anything, I would check with the manufacturer for a solution. I can't believe that you are the only person that has run into this issue.
Personally, I think that the dual valve cover gaskets is a better idea, or possibly the 1958 valve covers, if they are of a different design that will give you the clearance that you need.
Personally, I think that the dual valve cover gaskets is a better idea, or possibly the 1958 valve covers, if they are of a different design that will give you the clearance that you need.
Just install a single tunnel ram...that'll raise the carb high enough
What I would really do is:
Buy the thicker gaskets and get some carb gaskets while I was at it (4).
Install the thick valve cover gaskets, make sure the valve train clears if so...
try to install the choke tube if the covers are now too high then install an extra carb gasket, as many as it takes up to 2 extra on each side of the phenolic spacer. Should raise the carb up enough to clear.
Buy the thicker gaskets and get some carb gaskets while I was at it (4).
Install the thick valve cover gaskets, make sure the valve train clears if so...
try to install the choke tube if the covers are now too high then install an extra carb gasket, as many as it takes up to 2 extra on each side of the phenolic spacer. Should raise the carb up enough to clear.
Try the thicker one.
Best solution.... it's simple and won't change the astetics of the the engine compartment...
Or just use a really small carb spacer. I think Summit has them in all sorts of thicknesses now
Yes Jason, I already have a 1/2" phenolic spacer on the carb. Since the thick gaskets are advertised as 3/8" thick. I would probably need a 1" spacer, removing the present one. That's also an option, Carmine.
Carmine, Edelbrock has a 3/8" thick carburetor insulator gasket. This would probably be just what you need to add under your carb as suggested by Mike.
My guess on why only a couple rocker nuts hit is when the rocker arm stud boss was cut to accept the guide plates they were not all cut down exactly the same, of a couple thousands maybe difference between them. This would cause the stud to stick up slightly taller than the rest.
My thought is similar, The machine shop may only have cut the stud bosses down the thickness of the guide plate and did not cut them down the additional amount need for the screw in studs?
So here are more of my thoughts on the cutting of the stud boss. I have my head sitting on a flat table under the 'drill press' starting the process of machining down the boss where the pressed in stud used to be. I have the hole where the old stud came out of as a guide, my cutter uses this hole to locate on the boss with a pilot. I bring down the cutter until it just touches the boss, and then cut a predetermined amount off the boss from the point I just touched the top of the boss. So if all the casting material for all the bosses on the head start at the exact same distance from the top of the machine flat table the head is on all would be good, but I highly doubt it given the fact all castings have some core shifts, flaws, whatever. So if the machinist used the flat table surface to measure all the bosses for the same height all would be the same. But I have seen them use the procedure as I described to cut the boss down which causes them to be at slightly different heights when finished. Doesn't usually cause any problems due to the adjustability of the rocker arm with the lock nut. But this leaves the rocker stud and lock nuts at different heights.
Just a little note here......the rocker nut height is determined by the push rod and valve stem height not the stud height.
And as for the thickness of the gasket under the valve cover the cover will move out at an angle not straight up.
And as for the thickness of the gasket under the valve cover the cover will move out at an angle not straight up.
If the valve cover gaskets are 3/8" you won't need to raise the carb the same amount since the heads are at an angle the cover raises less relative to the carb, extra carb gasket(s) will do it. I think the existing tube might even make it as is.
As usual, some great advice, suggestions and direction. Thank you everyone for taking the time and effort to share. I re-read all these threads several times and I made a decision. I broke it down in 2 parts. The first part was the rocker nut clearance with the valve cover. I could accomplish this one of 2 ways; either cut the rocker nuts, perhaps all 16 of them, or get the thicker 3/8 inch gasket. Cutting the rocker nuts lost it appeal to me, so I elected to purchase the thicker gasket. I think that problem has been solved. Now, my factory choke. I know I'm stubborn on this because I really wanted to keep it, but this morning along with the thicker gasket, I also ordered the electric replacement choke. Got the gasket and choke from ShowCars. From reading the last few threads, there is a possibility that with a thicker carburetor gasket or gaskets, I still might be able to salvage the factory setup. I think it's best to get the valve covers on and deal with that issue first. Then I can see how the choke is going to line up and what might be done with it. If nothing, then I have the electric one ready to go. I don't suspect the parts will be in until the end of the week. Will keep you posted. Many thanks to all, Carmine.
Just one more quick question. I'm going to silicone on the thicker gaskets to my valve covers. But, because the gaskets are thicker, should they be treated differently, meaning having any silicone/adhesive applied to the gasket where it meets the head?? Kind of like insurance for not leaking. I don't think I should use anything but I'm really not sure. Thanks, Carmine.