Only 90 Bob......when I left the shop in town yesterday the banks temp sign said 102
What's 12 degrees among friends.
Old style oil filter
- Thread starter El Rat
- Start date
What's 12 degrees among friends.
It was hot enough in the shop today that high limit switch made the fan come on in the overhead furnace.
Hey Bob: I have an idea.Why don't you, let your car down, and then jack it up, and lay on the ground to change oil and filter. It will be More enjoyable, in this 90 * heat.
Yes sir, as we all know heat rises probably 75 down on the floor
I had talked to an HVAC guy about putting A/C in the shop one time and he told me I would need some fans in the ceiling to push the cold air down 
I didn't call him back.
I didn't call him back.
You could do it over here Bob. 6degrees Celsius. 5inches of rain in 24 hours. Local rivers all burst banks. State of civil emergency and evacuations. Decided to stay inside and not go out to shop today.What's 12 degrees among friends.
Steve
Hope you are on high ground Steve.
Agreed but the one thing I do HATE about them is you spend time painting them nice, even applying a nice decal (originally they were silk screened) only to have them covered in oil when you remove it! Into the solvent tank with it. That part bugs me but what 'cha gonna do?
I have some work to do, under my Chevy.When I went, in my garage at 4:30, it was 100*
Heat rises so under the car should be ok Skip.
ozzie7
Well Known Member
Does anyone have a link to the complete original setup?
I have 2 original sets that are supposedly complete.
I have one engine with the conversion to screw on but not the original pieces to know what was removed.
So I'm trying to determine if the 2 sets that I acquired are actually complete with bypass valve, etc.
Seems like I've read that the bypass valve can somehow be left out or something.
Or if there is a good listing of the parts and maybe the part numbers and pics.
I have 2 original sets that are supposedly complete.
I have one engine with the conversion to screw on but not the original pieces to know what was removed.
So I'm trying to determine if the 2 sets that I acquired are actually complete with bypass valve, etc.
Seems like I've read that the bypass valve can somehow be left out or something.
Or if there is a good listing of the parts and maybe the part numbers and pics.
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I appreciate all of the preservationists out there using the stock stuff, but I just know that every time I rolled around under a Chevy to change the oil and filter (starting over 50 years ago) these fine pieces were responsible for me making a giant mess and possibly creating a new oil leak. So I developed an attitude about them which I still have.
I agree that the spin-on kits are not that great, but some headers require more clearance than others. I have been using the flat adapter kit that takes a Ford filter with an anti-drainback valve. I prefer the Wix racing filters, but I have used K&N too. I replace the cheesy little pal nut that locks on the nipple with an aluminum nut from the AN fitting rack. I can't say that this is better, but it reduces the odds of me making an oil puddle. Just another opinion.
I agree that the spin-on kits are not that great, but some headers require more clearance than others. I have been using the flat adapter kit that takes a Ford filter with an anti-drainback valve. I prefer the Wix racing filters, but I have used K&N too. I replace the cheesy little pal nut that locks on the nipple with an aluminum nut from the AN fitting rack. I can't say that this is better, but it reduces the odds of me making an oil puddle. Just another opinion.
You nailed It, Dave. I also, replaced the cheap Pal Nut, along with the 2 chinkish 5/16 bolts, that hold everything to the block. I put a few drops of BLUE, threadlocker on them, and made sure, my Bellhousing bolt wasn't interfering. The one thing, I'm not too sure of, on the Trans-Dapt adapter, is the Rubber O-Ring, that seals it to the block. I had one fail on me..
I replaced it, and everything, has been OK.
Years ago (many) . The last time, I changed the oil, using that canister, it was a Hot summer day, and I was lying on the ground, and I ended up, with oil in my hair and running down my arms. That was IT. I went to our local Speed Shop, and bought a Mr. Gasket adapter, and never regretted it.
I also, replaced the cheap Pal Nut, along with the 2 chinkish 5/16 bolts, that hold everything to the block. I put a few drops of BLUE, threadlocker on them, and made sure, my Bellhousing bolt wasn't interfering. The one thing, I'm not too sure of, on the Trans-Dapt adapter, is the Rubber O-Ring, that seals it to the block. I had one fail on me..I replaced it, and everything, has been OK. Years ago (many) . The last time, I changed the oil, using that canister, it was a Hot summer day, and I was lying on the ground, and I ended up, with oil in my hair and running down my arms. That was IT. I went to our local Speed Shop, and bought a Mr. Gasket adapter, and never regretted it.
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And a lot of cardboard and shop towelsIt takes a real man to change a canister style oil filter.