Decisions before I really start wrenching on an all original car

[Deadwolf]

While Convertibles are desirable cars and I know we have the numbers matching car shows and judging. I know I want a car to cruise in though and in my mind due to the low end power train in the car I'm not really going to hurt the value of it by changing it out. While I have the intention of preserving all the parts removed, we all know how that will turn out 10 years from now when I move for some reason or even if I don't move and figure out the parts are taking up valuable real-estate. The car is pretty well unmolested as it sits, so it would be an easy numbers project. The engine was overhauled with standard bore once. The transmission was gone through once. The top was replaced and the car was repainted the same color, but I think they may have been off tint a little and it wasn't that good of a paint job.

I've had some people tell me I should sell it and buy something that has already had changes made to it, but this car was my fathers. Granted when he bought it he barely drove it. My grandfather and I rebuilt the motor at home when I was like 13 and the car might have had 2000 miles put on it the 10 years after that and before it was parked due to the brakes going out.

I don't want to do to the car what my dad did, I want to drive the car, When the weather is nice of course.

 

[BRYAN FUGATE]

Build it the way you want it and drive it. If it was passed down through my family unless it was a 409 or some other rare one I would modify it to my liking and keep it

 

[Phil Reed]

Welcome!!!!
Tough decision. It would cost less to leave as is if you are wanting to keep it as your father had it. We all here like the 409s better than 283s!!!! Your other 2 options are realistic also.
In other words....I don't have the answer for you!!!!

 

[303Radar]

My number one rule is, have a focus on what you like and how you want it to be. Most buyer's (not from this site) would probably see option 1 as the most valuable. However, my personal opinion is, option 4 would give you the most fun. However, if you're concerned about long term value, you might do option 3 or 4, but keep all the old parts available for the next buyer. Since I started with a 348, I thought I'd keep the block. If I had a 283 or the inline six, I would probably have done an LS swap.

Question for the group is, when did VIN stamping occur on engines and transmissions? Can't remember if it started in 63 or 64.

Regarding value, value is in the holder of the checkbook.

 

[Phil Reed]

VIN stamping started with the 62 production 300HP 327 and both 409 engines. Also the T-10 4-speeds were stamped also.

 

[pvs409]

After having completed 2- 1962 Chevrolet SS 409 convertibles in the last 2 years( One is mine one for a friend) I have the following comments. Plus I own a 1962 Impala SS convertible 327/300 HP -700R4 overdrive automatic with factory air conditioning .

My 62 SS 409 convertible was stripped of its 409 motor and a complete interior when I bought it and I wanted something I can drive and enjoy. Drawing on about 7 restorations from previous years and how the cars performed, and other 62's, 63's and 64's I have owned, I offer the following to the comments that you made on changing the 63 SS to what you want.

• Having your original family owned 63 SS Convertible is amazing. If I could find my original 62 Chevy 4 speed 300 HP/327 from 1965, I would move heaven and earth to buy it back.
• I wanted a 5 speed transmission that shifted like Muncie and for overdrive in 5 gear. I purchased and installed a Richmond 5 speed because it fits my factory SS car (only item needed is a new transmission mount). I can keep my 62 SS shift plate around the 5 speed shifter. A TKO transmission requires major modifications to the tunnel to make it fit (the entire tunnel has to be cut out and raised & factory carpet fit is questionable because of the tunnel height ) and I seriously doubt that a 63 SS shift plate used in original 4 speed SS cars(if thats what you want) will fit a modified floor to for a TKO. TKO is a internal rail shifter and I did not want that type of a transmission.
• Addtionally the cost of the Richmond 5 speed & the 5 speed shifter was for me was less than 1/2 the cost of a TKO transmission.
• I built a 409 since I felt that it could be built to drive on the street and anywhere and appear to be a factory 409 car(which it was). The motor is a stroker motor but it is a correct 1962 409 -8068 engine block with cast iron 690 heads (Edelbrock heads are a option like I have on my other 62 SS 409 Hardtop.) I am running a stock 3345 Carter AFB and a alternator vs a generartor. If I have trouble with the Carter AFB I will switch to a Edelbrock 1406 AFB carb (like the dual 1406 carbs I have on my 62 SS 409 Hardtop)
• I added factory air to the car to drive it in hot weather and a cam in the 409 that will work with the 409. Vintage air is another option but I wanted a stock look under the hood and I know my factory air works as it does in 2 of my 62's.
• I have a billet driveshaft support and girdles on my posi rear end for the 409 (the same setup in my other 409 and I decided to not spend $ 3500+ on a 9 inch ford for street use the majority of the time.
• I have been considering a 9 inch ford for my other 409 62 SS Hardtop, but I can't justify the $ 3500+ cost when I do not do much drag racing at a strip. If I do drag race, I drive the car as I did in the 60's and 70's to not break rear ends and still have fun.
• I have PS, PB and Power windows all for driving the car. My factory PB cars stop just fine for me.
• I do have a 62 SS 409 with Power brakes/dual master cylinder and 4 wheel disc brakes, but I decided against disc brakes in my 62 SS 409 convertible
• I did not add disc brakes but may install Mettallic drum brakes from a Corvette supplier that have similar stopping power to disc brakes.
• I do not like LS motor cars because they do not look like real motors, and all the computer controls to run the engine -they fill the trunk. I wanted to be able to keep my car running without needing a computer technician.
• 409 cars are were its at even though I did not own one the 1960's.

Paul

 

[Dick MacKenzie]

VIN stamping started with the 62 production 300HP 327 and both 409 engines. Also the T-10 4-speeds were stamped also.

I was under the impression that the VIN was not stamped on any small blocks. ?

 

[Phil Reed]

I was under the impression that the VIN was not stamped on any small blocks. ?

Reread my post Grasshopper!!!!!

 

[59K9]

life is far too short to not do what makes you feel good...build what you want to drive, not for financial purposes...you know deep down which you'd rather drive...good luck any which way you go...

 

[Dick MacKenzie]

Reread my post Grasshopper!!!!!

I read it closely the first time and re-read it at your request. The reason I asked the question is my Super Sport is a 300/327. No VIN on the block. The 4 speed does have the vin stamped on it. Back to the engine, years ago I read that no small blocks had the VIN stamped on them in 1962 model year. You had to go by the assembly date of the engine to determine if it was original to the car. The assumption being if it was assembled a short time before the build date of the car it probably was original. If you can document for me that 300/327s had the VIN stamped on them I'll have to stop telling people I believe it's original engine for the car.
In fact when you looked at the car I'm sure I said that and you didn't tell me I was wrong. I just want to get my story straight when I pass this car on.

 

[Iowa 409 Guy]

life is far too short to not do what makes you feel good...build what you want to drive, not for financial purposes...you know deep down which you'd rather drive...good luck any which way you go...

And, only you know the answer.

 

[boxerdog]

While the 409 would most probably be the most popular choice here, let me throw in another one. Maybe consider a 383 SBC camouflaged to look like the original 283, either with the PG or a TH350. Economical, reliable, fast enough and a relatively easy build. Stash the original in case you ever want to go that direction. And drive it anywhere in the meantime.

 

[Deadwolf]

My plan is to first get it safely back on the road with original drive train as long as it doesn't lead to a complete engine overhaul.

Engine will either be a 409 with all new internals or due to core cost I might go with a 348 that is stroked to 434. I'm looking for a comfortable to drive on the street 400+ HP. Enough that if I romp on it I can feel it, but not looking to go to the local 1/4 mile track. Not sure if I want the engine compartment to look closer to stock or maybe some old school hot rod type multi carburetor intake with aluminum heads. I like the multi single barrel intakes, but I hear they are a pain to setup and tune.

Paul brought up a good point with the 5 speed Richmond and I have actually looked at it. I'm a little tossed with going 5-speed or just going with a Muncie 4 speed and keeping my rear gears a little higher. The only issue I see with the Richmond is its top gear is still a 1:1, and you gain a lower first gear. I might just gear it for an M-20 at the highway speed I want and if I don't like how it takes off from standstill I can later upgrade to a Richmond 5-speed. I want to go back with factory type clutch linkage, but it does look like a hydraulic system is easier to install.

Either upgrade to a "P" case, modify existing to fit aftermarket Posi, or go with a 12 bolt. Not going to put a ford rear in my Chevy.

Brake upgrades to include double bowl master, front discs (nothing extra fancy with the conversion), and self adjusting rear drums. All Stainless brake lines with braided steel flex lines.

Fuel system going to Stainless tank and lines, but otherwise stock for a Hi-performance factory application.

Add some bun warmers to the front seats for cooler top down Michigan nights, a factory style tach, dual rear antenna, a hidden stereo, update the existing speakers and maybe add a couple additional speakers if I can install them without cutting anything.

Step up to a different rim and tire combo, something like some 15" or 16" rally wheels that fill up stock wheel wells a little better. I actually have a nice set of rally rims from a 70's Pontiac Bonneville that I am thinking about repainting to match the car.

Talking about paint, my dad always wanted to take it from the Silver Blue to a Ember red with a red and white interior. I like that look as well and since eventually I plan on body off restoration, after I get my mechanical right, that would be the perfect time to change colors. This is probably the biggest hit to value so far cause everything else can be easily undone. Granted after driving it around in this color it may grow on me.

Everyone says I should update the power steering from the existing ram system, but I'm thinking I will just freshen it up with new lines and such as needed.

That about sums it up.

 

[pvs409]

Actually the current Richmond 5 speed and 6 speeds being sold are overdrive transmissions. They sell a 5 speed with overdrive in 5 gear and a 6 speed with overdrive.

The 5 speed with a 1 to 1 in 5th gear are not available new - they discontinued making them.

I am about to purchase another nice used Richmond 5 speed with 1 to 1 in 5th gear including the shifter. I might switch it for my Muncie 4 speed that I have in my 62 SS 409 Hardtop. This Muncie has 4th gear as overdrive with a 3:36 posi rear end --2300 RPM at 65 MPH.

My current 62 SS 409 convertible with the 5 speed (1 to 1 5th) has a 3:08 posi (so 5th gear will be like a overdrive with the 3:08 and first gear is 3:27 ). The first gear and the 2nd, 3rd , 4th ratios make it drive like a muncie 4 speed and the 3:08 rear end (with the 1 to 1 -5th gear ) the engine runs at about 2200 RPM at 70 MPH.
This is compared to my other 62 hardtop & my 57 Chevy with wide ratio Muncies I have at 2:56 low gear and 3:36 posi's with the Muncie transmissions -similar to your comment on higher rear end ratios with a Muncie 4 speed). With the 3:36 rear ends I am at 3500 RPM at 70 MPH. I have considered going to a 3:08 posi with the Muncies but with the wide ratio first gear starting from a stop is not going to work too good as I recall.
I do try to stick with a 26 inch or 27 tall tire(close original size) to help with on the 3:36 posi Muncies 4 speed or even the 5 speed.

I reviewed a 6 speed Richmond overdrive transmission installation that was posted on this site a few years ago with pictures installed in a 61 Chevy Belair Hardtop with a 348 or 409 motor ( I don’t remember the members name -he was from the west coast). The shifter on the 6 speed still fit his bench seat car, it just moved the shifter back about 1 1/2 inches but the factory 4 speed tunnel cover still fit and a factory round 4 speed boot worked on the floor cover.

I think the stock clutch set up is very easy to install after installing 5 or 6 of them most in PG cars. Just weld the Z bar and cross shaft support to the frame at the correct location. Then-- The installation -- of factory 62 to 64 clutch and brake pedals. Z bar, pull back springs, upper and lower rods will take less than one day to attach it to your clutch fork installed with the transmission.

I have from Turn Switch(from Minnesota http://www.turnswitch.com/ ) a radio and speakers and converted original AM radio to AM/FM with these options -- portable CD, portable cassette, your old under dash Delco 8-track player, MP3 player, XM radio, Apple iPod/i-Phone/i-Pad through headphone jack.
I have factory style speakers(high quality speakers) from Turn Switch that fit in the factory front speaker location and in the back seat speaker stock location and the original speaker fader on the tuning knob works.

I have 4 factory PS setups on my cars with all new components -they all work just fine. I tried the Borgenson late model pump & hoses. I even purchased a Global West steering system and I ended up not using either one. They did not work for me without more modifications than I wanted on my original 62 409 SS as compared to my restored factory PS setups that are working and driving just fine.

Paul

 

[oldskydog]

Corvette smallblocks all got VIN stamps beginning in mid 60 production. I believe it was 63 when Chevy directed that all optional or high performance engines would get VIN stamps but seems like that was not enforced. in 68 it was mandated by the Feds.

 

[Phil Reed]

In 62...283s and 250HP 327 did not get stamped.

 

[oldskydog]

In 62...283s and 250HP 327 did not get stamped.

That's because they weren't high performance.

 

[Phalen409]

That's because they weren't high performance.

 

[Phil Reed]

That's because they weren't high performance.

THAT'S WHAT I WAS TRYING TO TELL DICKIEMAC!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Phalen409]

Good morning Phil