"The" Homewrecker

Ishiftem

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
The stock setup worked fine. The engine idles at 1000 rpm and I had the pump under driven by a good 25%. So that puts the fan and pump turning at 750 rpm. Moroso claims the electric motor spins at 2600 under load. With the larger pulley I used on the motor, it means I’ll be turning the pump and fan at 1300 rpm. Even if it only turns it at 1000 that is still 250 rpm faster than before. The fan is about an inch shorter than stock but is 6 blades instead of 5. I don’t see a problem but we’ll find out in a about 6 weeks.
 

La Hot Rods

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 15
I ran one of those Moroso pump drives on the 383 in my charger, but I ran an electric fan. I t worked good, I run the pump to get the water to the radiator, turn off the pump then turn on the fan. do that about 4 or 5 time and the engine would be cool.
 

Fathead Racing

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 7
I have an electric fan scavenged from the scrap yard and retrofitted to my car. It's an OEM fan from a Ford Taurus LS. According to Hot Rod Magazine this is the best fan for moving air bar none. It sits in a hand pounded aluminum shroud and a frame that I fabbed up at my shop. It works automatically and I have an override switch. After a run in the pits you can hear it cycling numerous times. It will cool enough water in the radiator when I start the engine in say ten minutes the water temp is usually in the 140* range even on the hottest days. At Bowling Green after a run, by the time I reach the pit area the engine is at 195*.
 

Fathead Racing

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 7
Right now I’m at 180-185 on the hot days when I get back to the pits. The faster cool down is what I’m after.
Have you noticed an improvement with performance running at lower temps. I like to heat sink the engine to at least 165*. If I don't get the engine at an even temp on more than one occasion the engine will stall on the starting line, backfire through the carbs.
 

La Hot Rods

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 15
The used parts I played with, if at 180 to 185 worked the best. the new intake made cold running poor.
 

Ishiftem

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
The moroso electric drive motor turning the pump and fan seems to be working out. It was 85 degrees out and sunny and it kept its cool and cooled down to under 100 degrees fairly quick when I got back to the pits. Hottest it got was 190 right after a run but was down to 150 by the time I got to the timing shack. Only reason it got that hot was because it was 170 after the burnout. My alternator pulley is too small and not really generating more than 12.5 volts at idle and I had to keep it idling in staging for a long long time because my battery was taking a dump after 9 years. A bigger pulley and a new battery and things will be just fine. I didn't notice any gain getting rid of the clutch fan and driving the pump with a belt though. At least nothing really noticeable. Best pass was 10.42. Now I need to figure out my air box. Car falls on it's face and runs like crap with it on. Take it off and no issue. It's either going lean, rich, or the air is moving in such a way that it just pisses the carbs off. That's tomorrows goal.
 

Ishiftem

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Back out testing. I made no changes to the suspension, shocks, air pressure, clutch or leave rpm. First pass with no cold air box 10.49 with a 1.44 60’. Next pass I had baffled put in the box. Went 10.47 with a low 1.43 60’. Previously with out the baffles it fell on its face and would struggle to run 12s. The baffles made THAT big of a change. Still it bucked and popped a little even running the 10.47. Next was running without the lid so it got cold air from the headlights and the old ford scoop above the carbs but the box wasn’t sealed to anything. Bam! 10.30 with a 6.51 1/8 mile and a 1.402 60’. All personal bests! Just amazing how much my cold air setup pissed off everything! Here is a picture without the lid and baffles in place.5808B86B-C205-4E51-9B61-21C75CA87502.jpeg
 

Fathead Racing

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 7
Back out testing. I made no changes to the suspension, shocks, air pressure, clutch or leave rpm. First pass with no cold air box 10.49 with a 1.44 60’. Next pass I had baffled put in the box. Went 10.47 with a low 1.43 60’. Previously with out the baffles it fell on its face and would struggle to run 12s. The baffles made THAT big of a change. Still it bucked and popped a little even running the 10.47. Next was running without the lid so it got cold air from the headlights and the old ford scoop above the carbs but the box wasn’t sealed to anything. Bam! 10.30 with a 6.51 1/8 mile and a 1.402 60’. All personal bests! Just amazing how much my cold air setup pissed off everything! Here is a picture without the lid and baffles in place.View attachment 71108
Now that's some info we can all use.good job.
 

Fathead Racing

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 7
I do know that the corrugated ducting is very restrictive or poor C factor due to the fact that air does not like to go around corners. The corrigation in the duct will cause swirling of the air and that will restrict flow. If your intake ducts were smooth bore I think you would pick up some.
 

dm62409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 12
Dan, I ran a similar set up on my belair and it was worth a solid tenth & 1/2 . Only thing different is my air pan floor was raised up higher ( part of old velocity stacks) . Your floor looks lower than the bowl vents and the air stream coming out of the tubes into the box looks like it would try to siphon the bowl vents. You probably don't have the hood height to work with, but if you could raise the box floor above the vents it might give the air room to make its turn down into carb.
Just my thoughts for what its worth.
 
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