348 Tri-Power - Advice needed

[Noel Edgar]

Hello fellow W blockers...

I am in the process of rewiring my truck. At the same time I am going to try to do a little maintenance that is probably overdue. Last season I found that the truck temperature was fluctuating more than it had in the past and there seem to be a little more noise coming from the water pump area. Also, the overflow periodically spewed Prestone. With this in mind I thought I would replace the thermostat and have a look to see if the water pump should be rebuilt or replaced. I do have good support among my group which will assist greatly as I am not exactly an expert. My questions are:

As to then thermostat - should I use a 160 deg or 180 deg? Why?

My water pump casting number is 3757244 - upon searching - it indicates that it is from a 1959 truck. There are other indications that my engine is a truck engine. Is there an easy way to determine if the water pump should be rebuilt or replaced? Also, I understand there is a long and short version - Think mine is a short version - from the pully to the bolt locations is approximately 6.75 inches. Does this sound correct?

Also, I would like to determine alternative locations on the Block for Temperature & Oil Pressure senders. I am currently using a port on the passenger side front for Temperature and a port on the driver side front for oil pressure. See pics...

Thx in advance for any help you can offer.

Noel

 

[La Hot Rods]

There should be a place for the oil pressure sending unit just above the oil filter.
Did the overheating start all of a sudden?
If the water pump shows signs of leakage or has a noise bearing it would be time for a rebuild.
You could take the cover off the back of the pump to inspect the impaler.
I would want a 185 degree thermostat, I feel running an engine to cool causes more wear and chance for more moisture build up in the crankcase.

 

[wristpin]

With the engine cool start the engine up with radiator cap off and watch for good water flow once the thermostat opens. There should be no foaming or air bubbles in the anti-freeze which could indicate a pressure leak.
Post more pics of the engine and car please. Tell us about it. Looks very cool!

 

[Don Jacks]

Going by what I see you have a truck water pump and I agree with James about the thermostat.Nice truck

 

[Noel Edgar]

Thanks for the feedback guys - much appreciated. I will be going at it pretty hard over the next month or so - you may here from me again. I attached before and after pics - I purchased the Red version in Dec 2013. The bones were there -348/powerglide/9 inch rear. I have had a lot of fun - it has not let me down - keeps getting better.

Noel

 

[wristpin]

Sleeper!

 

[Gofish]

Doesn’t your pic show a water temp sender in the drivers side of the intake manifold? I have one there in a similar 348, but I’m using a sender in the driver’s side near the bottom of the radiator. I’m also using an oil pressure sender and electric fuel pump shutoff (for lack of a better name) near the oil filter casting.

john

 

[Don Jacks]

Sweet ride!!!!!!!

 

[skipxt4]

Beautiful Cars. I have been watching "The Untouchables" on YouTube, for the last 3 hours. I believe, they showed a few, the same year, as your RED CAR.

 

[427John]

Hello fellow W blockers...

I am in the process of rewiring my truck. At the same time I am going to try to do a little maintenance that is probably overdue. Last season I found that the truck temperature was fluctuating more than it had in the past and there seem to be a little more noise coming from the water pump area. Also, the overflow periodically spewed Prestone. With this in mind I thought I would replace the thermostat and have a look to see if the water pump should be rebuilt or replaced. I do have good support among my group which will assist greatly as I am not exactly an expert. My questions are:

As to then thermostat - should I use a 160 deg or 180 deg? Why?

My water pump casting number is 3757244 - upon searching - it indicates that it is from a 1959 truck. There are other indications that my engine is a truck engine. Is there an easy way to determine if the water pump should be rebuilt or replaced? Also, I understand there is a long and short version - Think mine is a short version - from the pully to the bolt locations is approximately 6.75 inches. Does this sound correct?

Also, I would like to determine alternative locations on the Block for Temperature & Oil Pressure senders. I am currently using a port on the passenger side front for Temperature and a port on the driver side front for oil pressure. See pics...

Thx in advance for any help you can offer.

Noel

Noel the long and short water pump terminology applies to SBC and BBC engines and generally was dependent on whether or not it was 68-earlier or 69-later there are exceptions such as corvette and pickup that used the shorter version in later years,The W-engines being earlier used the short version to end of production in 65.Now yours being a truck engine there were variations on the height low,medium,and high that had to do with the distance of the water pump shaft from the crankshaft centerline.This was done to adjust fan location in different type truck chassis ie.conv cab,LCF,or COE.

 

[Noel Edgar]

Wow - appreciate all the good information and "likes" of my truck.

John, I thought the that the plug near the oil filter might be usable for the sender so thanks for that. I was trying to keep wires out of site. That's one looked after - could you send me a pic showing where the temp port is? I will take a look today to see if I can figure it out.

427 John - Thanks for the info on the water pump - I definitely need the short one as space is very import - the 348 eats up a lot of it...lol.

Noel

 

[wristpin]

Your application would be a really good place to see about adapting an electric water pump and pusher electric fan.
If i could get my hands on a 409 distributor id like to see about having a 2 piece distributor housing made as a prototype.

 

[Gofish]

Noel, here are photos of the water temp sender (just like yours, but mine’s not wired now) and the oil pressure sender installed near the oil filter. Nevermind the TIG wire holding the throttle spring - that was just for the cam break in (same with some of the wiring near the pressure sender). I used a short nipple to allow room for the oil pressure sender and the electric fuel pump safety pressure switch. Funny story, I initially wired the safety switch wrong and while priming the engine before the first start up the starter engaged when I reached adequate oil pressure - oops.

By the looks of your picture you are already using the water temp sender location I’m referring to, so maybe I’m missing something.

john

 

[Noel Edgar]

Thanks John - I was looking for an alternative location for the Temp sender - just trying to keep the wires out of sight. I will use the oil sending location for sure.

Noel

 

[427John]

Your application would be a really good place to see about adapting an electric water pump and pusher electric fan.
If i could get my hands on a 409 distributor id like to see about having a 2 piece distributor housing made as a prototype.

Wristpin,where are you going with the 2 piece distributor housing?Are you going after some type of offset drive setup like some of the old race magneto setups?

 

[Don Jacks]

You could modify one of the rear freeze plugs for the temp sender to help with hiding the wires.The hottest part of the engine is in the number 5-7 cylinder area unless your cam has the 4-7 cylinder swap anyway.

 

[Gofish]

I share your wanting to keep wiring unseen as possible. I have an aluminum radiator with a bung for a water temp sender, so that’s what I’ve been using so far. I still need to cover that red wire...

 

[Noel Edgar]

That's interesting - did think of that but not being too experienced discounted it. That is something to ponder.

Thanks

 

[Noel Edgar]

Hey Gofish - is the picture you sent a Model A? If so, and it's not asking too much I would be interested in seeing a bigger one showing the alternator location.
Thx again.

Noel

 

[Don Jacks]

I share your wanting to keep wiring unseen as possible. I have an aluminum radiator with a bung for a water temp sender, so that’s what I’ve been using so far. I still need to cover that red wire...

View attachment 77403I'm NOT a fan of this set up for that temp sensor.The reason being that it's placed in the coldest part of the radiator.By the time that it gets up to the danger zone for whatever the reason,the engine is already well past that point,and already damaged.I get the appearance deal,but not at the expense of a 7,000 dollar plus engine.