Phil says the 63 was synckronized!!!!!
Mine was not and it was original.
1961 Impala 2 Door Sedan - Let's Get Started...
- Thread starter tcb-1
- Start date
Mine was not and it was original.
FWiw,,, i just got a message the mastercool tool has been reuced$10.00 and at 179.00 from a site in alabama .Do your shopping. This is on e bay.
Rear axle complete. New pinion seal, bearings/seals, orings, and gaskets. Completely cleaned inside and out. Decided while I have it apart and accessible, I might as well throw a disc brake kit on. This one was from Inline Tube. There was minimal grinding of the axle flange and disc rotor, but it came together nicely. Best part, it was on $310 on eBay. Some kits go all the way up to $600 for the exact same parts.
Also got the rear trailing arms and upper torque arm ready for powder coating by getting the bushings out. Used the “drill the rubber bushing out and cut the sleeve” method which worked great (I usually push them out on a press). I will be using an adjustable panhard due to going with air ride.
Not a lot of time to work on it over the holidays, but I really hope to get the rear end back in so I can set my wheel backspace and diameter up.
Also got the rear trailing arms and upper torque arm ready for powder coating by getting the bushings out. Used the “drill the rubber bushing out and cut the sleeve” method which worked great (I usually push them out on a press). I will be using an adjustable panhard due to going with air ride.
Not a lot of time to work on it over the holidays, but I really hope to get the rear end back in so I can set my wheel backspace and diameter up.
Looking great. 
Getting the logistics of the air ride components in place. Was going to leave the upper trunk deck alone and mount the spare and jack in the factory location, but having the entire lower floor uncluttered is much more appealing. If the spare fits in well, then it will go there. Trying to keep the trunk as factory looking as possible, but cramming a 5 gallon tank and a bunch of air lines in there is getting away from my plans a bit.
Axle subassembly complete. First time I’ve ever used NiCopp brake lines. Much, much easier to set up, especially with multiple bends. Cleaner and easier to flare than stainless or steel as well. Sealing is supposed to be better as well. Time will tell!
I know asking that about a lubricant everyone will have a brand loyalty, but what is everyone running in their differential? I know the manual lists (for non positracs) S.A.E. 90 “multi purpose gear oil”. I don’t want to go with a synthetic or synthetic blend, I’d rather go 100% dinosaur juice.
Axle subassembly complete. First time I’ve ever used NiCopp brake lines. Much, much easier to set up, especially with multiple bends. Cleaner and easier to flare than stainless or steel as well. Sealing is supposed to be better as well. Time will tell!
I know asking that about a lubricant everyone will have a brand loyalty, but what is everyone running in their differential? I know the manual lists (for non positracs) S.A.E. 90 “multi purpose gear oil”. I don’t want to go with a synthetic or synthetic blend, I’d rather go 100% dinosaur juice.
I have used Lucas 80W90 without any problems.
Car is looking good.
Car is looking good.
I had to use an Extra can, because it still chattered. 3:73 Gears. Can barely hear them.
Well, got my rebuilt three speed back and mated it to the flywheel and bell housing I bought from Phil. Thought I should get the entire power train back together and do a quick trial fit to make sure everything is kosher. Other than some terribly fitting rubber motor mounts, it fit like a glove. ‘61 283, ‘57 power pack heads, Edelbrock AVS carb, Pertronix ignition. 
Verrrrry nice! One of my favorite builds on here.
One of my favorite builds on here.
I learned a valuable lesson today... use a long throw out bearing when installing a diaphragm style clutch. Got everything together and test fitted. Dropped the engine/transmission in and had that fleeting thought I may have used the wrong length t/o bearing. Sure enough get the linkages set and it’s not enough engagement, plus the pedal is too far forward at rest. Guess I can look at it this way, I can pull an engine in 20 minutes now. Live and learn.
But she sure is pretty.
But she sure is pretty.
Well, take that all back. I didn’t have the clutch actuation rod adjusted correctly. The Jegs street clutch kit I installed came with a shorter release (throw out) bearing and I thought they sent me the wrong one, but alas I was the issue.
Another lesson learned. Don’t jump to conclusions. Sleep on it and go at it again with a fresh mind tomorrow. Oh and a lot of praying
Another lesson learned. Don’t jump to conclusions. Sleep on it and go at it again with a fresh mind tomorrow. Oh and a lot of praying
Clutch and column shift rods adjusted. Steering shaft connected. All new bushings, bearings, hardware, seals, etc. What wasn’t sandblasted and polished was painted or powder coated. It’s a sickness, but I love details.
As my grandfather said, “You can either dazzle them with details, or baffle them with bullsh*t”....
As my grandfather said, “You can either dazzle them with details, or baffle them with bullsh*t”....
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Don't think your grandfather was referring to detailing cars!!!
Don't think your grandfather was referring to detailing cars!!!
He was also married more than 11 times. I’m completely serious!! I think he just bullsh!tted a few of his “lady friends” into getting hitched, lol. But I loved my Grandpa “Swamper”! Good guy, knew a little about a lot. Rode a train from his small home in Poplar Bluff, MO to St. Louis every Sunday night to work on the GM assembly line. Caught the train back on Friday to come home. Hard life, but he made ends meet.