With that Ross piston in a truck block comes in at about 9.7-1.There have been some really butt kicking 409's built on that ratio over the years.I wonder what cam the builder put in there.It's a solid lifter cam but which one..The video of it running cold suggests that it's pretty small.
Shop recommendations for Orange County/ Los Angeles area?
- Thread starter ORO62
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I am going to have to call you out on this one Phil. I do believe you can count on Wristpin for several things. Perverse sexual acts with questionable women for Harley parts is one.
I am going to have to call you out on this one Phil. I do believe you can count on Wristpin for several things. Perverse sexual acts with questionable women for Harley parts is one.
Sounds like a fun guy in my book!
Can you elaborate on the truck notch? What is that?
I can never get the same answer from any 2 people as to how much those notches affect the compression, the average answer I get is about a 1/2 point.
Here is a picture of a truck block showing the notches cut at the top of the combustion chamber, a passenger car block will not have these notches.
Phil you of all people should know that the 340 horse piston didn't have exhaust valve clearance notches.As to the truck block Don,the difference between a car block is that the truck blocks have a notch in the top of the block just under the exhaust valves that the car block did not have.That notch displaces about 7cc's.,which will lower your compression by roughly one point.In certain applications ,because that notch unshrouds the exhaust valve which helps the engine make serious power.In your case since you live in a state where the best fuel you can get at the pump is 91 octane "Panther Piss" the lower compression ratio is a blessing.No comment on the Wristpin deal.
The notch in my 348 blocks aren't the same size as my 409 blocks with a notch for one thing. Given that a 409 has more volume it would make sense to make a notch larger to drop the compression in direct relation to volume. With all of the blocks I have, I do not have any double notch blocks to compare.
I know this is totally going to make me look super green here, but given the developments of what my engine actually is, what kind of spark plug wires, cap and rotor should I be changing out? Even if the ones I have are good, I want tonstsrt fresh since the parts are cheap. I bought new NGK GR5 plugs btw.
Another thing I got was zinc oil additive and lead additive for the fuel as that was recommended to me by various friends. Thoughts?
Another thing I got was zinc oil additive and lead additive for the fuel as that was recommended to me by various friends. Thoughts?
I like MSD plug wires. They come in many colors, but I prefer black. 
Use quality stuff like AC Delco,Accel,MSD,ect.for the cap rotor,wires,ect. The NGK's are a solid choice.Either a hot rod oil Such as Brad Penn,Amsoil,Gibbs,ect or the zinc additive is a must,but not both as too much zinc will cause other issues.The lead additive for the fuel isn't needed if the valves were replaced with stainless or the heads had hardened seats installed,but since we don't have anyway to know that short of a tear down by all means yes use it.
You have added an "s" to the word "block" when talking about your engines, do I detect a HOARDING problem here?
LOL
Lets just say I find things for a reasonable price and its always good to have a back up for my back up incase I blow a back up?You have added an "s" to the word "block" when talking about your engines, do I detect a HOARDING problem here?
Officially I do have about 4 blocks more than I have cars. So its not that bad.....yet.
That’s the first I’ve heard...
I know I noted all of my cc readings, but I have no idea where my notes are now. One day I'll find find them.
An example of a "double notch" 348 block from a truck circa 1962:
Hey everyone! Well, I have fantastic news! I eneded up changing all the spark plugs, wires, cap, and rotor and she's running like a champ! The clunking is gone and I suspect that was coming from the rotor and cap being worn plus the plugs being fouled in some cylinders. If you look closely at the rotor, the bottom left corner is worn significantly. The cap also had many points where the copper wasn't visible anymore as well. When combined with old plugs a wires, well it's no mystery why that was happening. Sometimes it's just the simple things as they say!
Next up on the list of repairs is rebuilding the carburetors. I suspect the float is sticking which is why I'm still smelling gas under the hood pretty badly. New gas cap fixed the gas smell at the rear if the car. Thank you all for the input! I've learned a great deal in a short amount of time and that's much appreciated! 
Next up on the list of repairs is rebuilding the carburetors. I suspect the float is sticking which is why I'm still smelling gas under the hood pretty badly. New gas cap fixed the gas smell at the rear if the car. Thank you all for the input! I've learned a great deal in a short amount of time and that's much appreciated!