Brakes, original drum

[Iowa409]

During my build the master cylinder was removed to do the fire wall work, then they put it back, but did not bleed them, full of air,

I found the reservoir bone dry, this original master cylinder is not pumping fluid after I filled it. I think the Master cylinder will need removed and bench bleed to get it pumping fluid/primed. Its one of the only pieces not replaced yet, but was scheduled sometime this winter maybe, certainly before spring.

I just put new shoes and drums all the way around, verified good wheel cylinders (not leaking anyway) last year during the suspension work.

So I am running drums on all four corners, that's now, I do plan to do a disc break install next spring at some point.

SO....... If I am going to replace the master cylinder, do I have to go back with the one that's in there, single reservoir style (I do have power brakes)

I am trying to avoid buying two different master cylinders, is there options for, getting it up and running with the future master cylinder on my Drum Brakes?

I did leave the passenger rear bleed valve, slightly cracked to see if it will gravity feed overnight??


Otherwise I have to make some sort of a game plan, I need the brakes working well enough to send it to the exhaust shop, then its in the garage for the winter tinkering stuff.

I'd like to buy a master cylinder that will work now and later, blow all my lines out with compressed air, neither of the rear bleeders are clogged nice and clear......Ideas??

 

[IMBVSUR?]

The cheapest would be to get a rebuild kit and build it if it's not a bleed issue. Very basic.

 

[drc409]

I run drum brakes but replaced single reservoir with dual for added safety. Something you might want to consider.

 

[La Hot Rods]

Don't remember what year car your car is but on a 62 the left rear is the farthest away from the master cylinder.
If you plan to change to disc brakes in the future the master cylinder will be different because the disc side of the master cylinder will not have the same check valve as the drum side. When you go shopping we will notice master cylinders offered in drum/drum , disc/drum or disc/disc.

 

[Iowa409]

The cheapest would be to get a rebuild kit and build it if it's not a bleed issue. Very basic.

Appreciate it, you know they are cheap enough, I just hate doing things twice, I do that enough when I screw up, lol.

 

[Don Jacks]

Why not put the exhaust off till spring and use the winter to put the disc brakes,the dual master will come in the kit.This way the brakes are DONE and you can drive without further delay?

 

[Iowa409]

I run drum brakes but replaced single reservoir with dual for added safety. Something you might want to consider.

Bingo... that' the trick/answer I think, If I am going to buy one might as well make it a dual reservoir. , is there a kit guys have came up with or do I just need to piece it together? I would imagine you just separate out that block below master cylinder and make it Front /back, is there a proportioning valve needed going this route or is that controlled in the New Master cylinder?

 

[Iowa409]

Don't remember what year car your car is but on a 62 the left rear is the farthest away from the master cylinder.
If you plan to change to disc brakes in the future the master cylinder will be different because the disc side of the master cylinder will not have the same check valve as the drum side. When you go shopping we will notice master cylinders offered in drum/drum , disc/drum or disc/disc.

I appreciate that, I think I seen that same info a few years back and had forgot, its all specific on what's braking what to get the right pressures, thank you, what is a proven, no fuss kit the guys have been using? any Ideas?

 

[Iowa409]

Why not put the exhaust off till spring and use the winter to put the disc brakes,the dual master will come in the kit.This way the brakes are DONE and you can drive without further delay?

Don............ This is no time to be practical, lol

 

[Iowa409]

On these new brake kits, I always see a lot of discussion about wheels and tires and clearance too , 14's vs 15's , so i am running 15" wheels, Cragars, so they should work with most kits. I would think? But I need to be practical too.... I just put 4 new Brake drums, 4 new sets of pads and 4 new wheel cylinders, I better put some wear on them at least before throwing them out. I think I'll do that get the car moving and STOPPING and call that a winter or next winter thing.

 

[La Hot Rods]

Then just try the rebuild on your master cylinder or replace it for now, guessing a replacement has to be 40 bucks or less.

 

[Iowa409]

I think $27, with lifetime warranty, not bad.

 

[pvs409]

I have all new brakes, new wheel cylinders, self adjusting conversion , turned original drums, new rebuilt (with stainless sleeve) single screw top master cylinder with a rebuilt by Booster Dewey factory power brake booster on my 62 Impala SS Impala 409 -5 speed Richmond convertible.
This factory brake system 62 SS 409 Convertible stops in my opinion equal to my 4 wheel disc brake 62 SS 409 Hardtop.

My 62 SS 409 Hardtop with 5 speed Richmond - has a Right Stuff 4 wheel 10" disc dual 8 inch size booster. I also have a booster pump for the brake booster that runs all the time since this 530 HP 409 does not have enough vacuum to run the brake booster.

Paul

 

[Iowa409]

I have all new brakes, new wheel cylinders, self adjusting conversion , turned original drums, new rebuilt (with stainless sleeve) single screw top master cylinder with a rebuilt by Booster Dewey factory power brake booster on my 62 Impala SS Impala 409 -5 speed Richmond convertible.
This factory brake system 62 SS 409 Convertible stops in my opinion equal to my 4 wheel disc brake 62 SS 409 Hardtop.

My 62 SS 409 Hardtop with 5 speed Richmond - has a Right Stuff 4 wheel 10" disc dual 8 inch size booster. I also have a booster pump for the brake booster that runs all the time since this 530 HP 409 does not have enough vacuum to run the brake booster.

Paul

Thank you Paul

 

[Iowa409]

So on my car, if I flush and fix all of the hydraulic issues, with all new shoes and hard parts, will hydraulics solve my issue? OR do I have to manually adjust these drums, I remember back in the day, you could back up and hit the brakes several times, it would self adjust the rear brakes, I cannot remember it doing anything for the front brakes?

 

[Iowa 409 Guy]

Mike

I ran my car at the track and it stopped just fine with drum brakes when crossing the stripe at 120 MPH. Personally I don't see any need for disc brakes on a street car if you know how to drive.

No more miles than you'll be putting on brake wear is not an issue.

 

[pvs409]

So on my car, if I flush and fix all of the hydraulic issues, with all new shoes and hard parts, will hydraulics solve my issue? OR do I have to manually adjust these drums, I remember back in the day, you could back up and hit the brakes several times, it would self adjust the rear brakes, I cannot remember it doing anything for the front brakes?

All factory 62 Chevy brakes did not have self adjusting brakes( that work like you noted). Self adjusting brakes started in 1963.
I just bought a brake kit with the adjusters/springs/mounting parts ) from Schafer in Florida ( or through Cars Inc who had the Schafer kit) for the conversion. The kit replaces all the original 62 brake items for front and rear brakes with the adjusters.

Paul

 

[62BillT]

I would like to see an original looking Master Cylinder that is a dual. Even if they had to make it a little bigger for it to work correctly. Then other than the proportioning valve, it would look pretty original, yet with the safety implemented.

By the way, no Discs for me. Original Drums all the way around, lol.

(I'm not planning on any Road Course racing, lol).

 

[Iowa409]

Mike

I ran my car at the track and it stopped just fine with drum brakes when crossing the stripe at 120 MPH. Personally I don't see any need for disc brakes on a street car if you know how to drive.

No more miles than you'll be putting on brake wear is not an issue.

I really agree with that, I just stopped bought an oem style single reservoir and 1 new hard line, going to put it back, as it came, especially since all the parts are new, thank you.

 

[Iowa409]

All factory 62 Chevy brakes did not have self adjusting brakes( that work like you noted). Self adjusting brakes started in 1963.
I just bought a brake kit with the adjusters/springs/mounting parts ) from Schafer in Florida ( or through Cars Inc who had the Schafer kit) for the conversion. The kit replaces all the original 62 brake items for front and rear brakes with the adjusters.

Paul[/QUOTEYep

sounds right to me, so my 64 should be self adjusting I am guessing.