348er in Switzerland

Dä Huäbär

Well Known Member
i am also familiar with the various opinions on engine oil types here in switzerland. some say this oil is the best, others say this is the best. I've been using the 20 / W50 in all of my oldtimers for decades. I have vehicles from the 40s, 50s and 60s. In my shop, my boss also has vehicles from the 20s and 30s. I use SAE 30 for these old cars without oil filters. As I said, I've been using these 2 oils for several decades and have no problems with them. a good friend with his own garage and several customers with oldtimers, he has been using the 20 / W50 for several decades for all his cars and those of his customers and has no problems with it.
With the engine of my Impala it is correct, as some of you have said, that the engine has warped due to a lack of oil due to the clogged oil pump strainer and the cooling water in the oil / engine. When disassembling the engine, I also noticed that it was rusty inside in many places. He's probably stood there for a long time with moisture in the engine.
since i am rebuilding the engine from scratch, it will work properly after correct assembly. what is not yet entirely clear to me is the break-in of the engine. you in America do it differently than we do here in Switzerland. we first let a new engine warm up for half an hour at idle speed. Afterwards we change the oil and tighten the screws on the cylinder head. after driving 300 miles at moderate speeds, we change the oil again. after another 300 miles of leisurely driving, only then do we really load the engine. you do that, I think differently, what I read here in the forum
 

409N

Well Known Member
I guess you just had your first engine failure with 20W50 :) by the look of those destroyed rod bearing's and hearing test might be a good idea :)
 

427John

Well Known Member
i am also familiar with the various opinions on engine oil types here in switzerland. some say this oil is the best, others say this is the best. I've been using the 20 / W50 in all of my oldtimers for decades. I have vehicles from the 40s, 50s and 60s. In my shop, my boss also has vehicles from the 20s and 30s. I use SAE 30 for these old cars without oil filters. As I said, I've been using these 2 oils for several decades and have no problems with them. a good friend with his own garage and several customers with oldtimers, he has been using the 20 / W50 for several decades for all his cars and those of his customers and has no problems with it.
With the engine of my Impala it is correct, as some of you have said, that the engine has warped due to a lack of oil due to the clogged oil pump strainer and the cooling water in the oil / engine. When disassembling the engine, I also noticed that it was rusty inside in many places. He's probably stood there for a long time with moisture in the engine.
since i am rebuilding the engine from scratch, it will work properly after correct assembly. what is not yet entirely clear to me is the break-in of the engine. you in America do it differently than we do here in Switzerland. we first let a new engine warm up for half an hour at idle speed. Afterwards we change the oil and tighten the screws on the cylinder head. after driving 300 miles at moderate speeds, we change the oil again. after another 300 miles of leisurely driving, only then do we really load the engine. you do that, I think differently, what I read here in the forum
A lot of the break in procedure variation is due to flat tappet cam in block vs roller lifter or OHC.With the flat tappet cam in block the increased engine speed during the initial break in of the cam is to ensure plenty of splash oiling for the cam lobes and lifter bottoms.
 

409N

Well Known Member
Prove to me that 20W50 THICK GOO didn't have anything to do with that 348" spinning 2 rod bearings :(, likely helped it along quite well . That thick crap couldn't get past the partially plugged pick up screen. Engine was alive before oil change :)
 

Jim Sullivan

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 10
The way I learned years ago, 20w-50 oil would be as thick as 20 weight oil at 32 degrees(or is it zero) and would be as thin as 50 weight would be at operating temperature( I believe some where around 180-200 degrees). That is going by memory and your results may vary. :D
 

409gang

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 1
The way I learned years ago, 20w-50 oil would be as thick as 20 weight oil at 32 degrees(or is it zero) and would be as thin as 50 weight would be at operating temperature( I believe some where around 180-200 degrees). That is going by memory and your results may vary. :D
I always heard it had the viscosity of the lower number (when cold) but had the lubricating ability of the larger number (at operating temature).
 

Dä Huäbär

Well Known Member
"" Prove to me that 20W50 THICK GOO didn't have anything to do with that 348" spinning 2 rod bearings :(, likely helped it along quite well . That thick crap couldn't get past the partially plugged pick up screen. Engine was alive before oil change "


Colin , that is of no use to me , that the engine was working before the oil change. as it was, sooner or later , it would have also collapsed with a different oil.

I would have preferred the engine to have worked for another year or two , because I have another project in my garage.

but after the engine overhaul, i know that i have a good engine that has even more power. and that is not to be despised either :cigar
 

409N

Well Known Member
Nice rotating assembly :), seems like lots of people in Switzerland work on cars , does anybody repair them ? :)
 
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