“ Help”on rebuilt 409 engine blowing water out overflow on radiator

pvs409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 11
Thanks guys, nice to have it fixed, so I can drive it... :drive
I considered leaving the motor in car and removing the heads. Decided to remove and disassemble entire motor, turned out to be the best thing for what we found + redetailing/repainting the engine to show quality. :brow

Gav
I switched 5 speeds since I had a brand new never used Richmond that had the best parts inside to make it shift better. I removed a used Richmond 5 speed that I purchased from Jim Yoeman that was behind his 62 bubble top 409 stroker motor ( that Phil rode in ). Turns out it had some metal shavings near the transmission drain - so it needs some work.

I sent 2 of my Richmonds to Lindsey’s Ring & Pinion in South Carolina ( he’s a former Richmond 15 year transmission guy) for improvements to make them shift better. The second Richmond 5 speed is now in my 62 Impala SS Hardtop 409 stroker, that I won the Iowa 2019 348/409 race with ( it had a Muncie 4 speed with a 4 gear overdrive when I won that race). I actually shifted into overdrive with that Muncie very near the finish line during each run of the 1/4 mile.

Paul
 

Tim

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 4
So glad you found the issue Paul! All these little things certainly help everyone remember to check their builds. I know I’ve done everything twice because I forgot stuff. I used those ARP bolts with stock heads and they came with washers. I used them not knowing why but now we all know!
 

pvs409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 11
Phil,

My 3 - Richmond 5 speeds are all 1- to 1 in 5 gear( not made now) . One was $1000 with Hurst 5 speed shifter ( from J.Yoeman) and the other two were $2200 to $2400 each ( one used and one brand new - never used). Using 3:08 or 3:36 posi’s in my 62’s
They are the same length as Muncie and BW 4 speeds - Hurst 5 speed Richmond shifters mount in factory 4 speed location on floor pan & factory 4 speed tunnel cover.
About 2700/2800 RPM at 70 mph with a 3:08 posi with 27 inch tall tires...
First gear in my Richmonds are 3:28 vs Muncie 2:54 1st gear, the lower first gear makes the 1 to 1 5th gear with 3:08 posi or 3:36 posi work.
My Richmonds are 21.57 inches long compared to Muncie or BW at 21.50 inches. The Richmond overdrive 5 or 6 speed‘s to my knowledge are also 21.57 inches ( from bell housing mount to back end of the transmission)

The new Richmond 5 or 6 speed overdrive will fit the factory shifter location within 2 inches( back 2 inches toward the seat) of the factory 4 speed tunnel locations ( I have pictures). I use them because they “do not require floor tunnel modifications for 61 to 64’s and they shift like Muncies...

They only sell a Long 5 or 6 speed shifter (to my knowledge) for the overdrive Richmonds.
( I have pictures of the Long 5 speed shifter in a 62 impala convertible with a 5 speed overdrive Richmond( plus I know of a 61 with a 6 speed overdrive Plus a Jim Yoeman switched his 62 bubbletop with a bench seat to a 6 speed overdrive Richmond just before he sold it - so I know they fit).
The Long shifter body does sit about 1 to 2 inches taller than the Hurst 5 speed shifters I have on my 62 SS Hardtop and SS convertible using my factory SS shift plates ( using Hurst foldable boot...on top of the factory 4 speed tunnel cover )

Actually I now have a extra Richmond 5 speed sitting on the bench - I may use it in my 62 Impala 327/300 HP that now has my Muncie 4 speed with overdrive in 4th gear....:dunno
I do have an extra Long 5 speed shifter for a Richmond with 1 to 1 5th gear.

Paul
 

Phil Reed

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 10
Thanks Paul!!!!
Tell Jim Hi for me!!!! I still remember the night Jim let me drive his car!!!!! Driving downtown Sioux City on I-29 and with his transmission at 85-90 MPH and I believe the tach was showing something like 2400RPM!!!!!!!!!
 

denson1932

Well Known Member
Paul...consider a leak down test using the ones sold on EBay with two air pressure gauges...you test one cyl at a time at TDC and energize it with air pressure..if you do it with high air pressure you had better chock the wheels inn both direction AND set the e brake....or the car may lunge foreward or back....
 
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