Can you get to the bellhousing bolts with the engine in?
1937 Chevy Coupe build
- Thread starter Simps37
- Start date
Something else I have thought about…..
If I ever need to run a mini-starter…..there is enough meat on the base to have a blind hole drilled to use it for a pin to help support the starter…..may need to have the existing outer hole tig welded to support the pin hole ……just a thought……
3 points of support would be better….no twist from the torque
If I ever need to run a mini-starter…..there is enough meat on the base to have a blind hole drilled to use it for a pin to help support the starter…..may need to have the existing outer hole tig welded to support the pin hole ……just a thought……
3 points of support would be better….no twist from the torque
No……radiator doghouse, both front fenders must come off and the transmission will be coming out too.
It’s really not that bad…. I have done it enough to be quite efficient.
Biggest issue is having to pull transmission cooler lines off the transmission because they must come with the radiator…..
New glass/seals/window tracks are ordered.
Since I built this front end about……16 years ago(had to pull off my boots to count that high)……I noticed the upper/lower control arm bushings were rotting…..so replacements are on the way also….
Goal is to drive it with my buddies cars from the farm to Fort Worth then to Amarillo on last weekend of June.
It may not be pretty….who cares!!!
Since I built this front end about……16 years ago(had to pull off my boots to count that high)……I noticed the upper/lower control arm bushings were rotting…..so replacements are on the way also….
Goal is to drive it with my buddies cars from the farm to Fort Worth then to Amarillo on last weekend of June.
It may not be pretty….who cares!!!
Put the new flex plate and new starter on last night……had plugs out and spun engine over to check fit.
Starter to flex plate looked good but I noticed the plate did not spin true, sorta wobbled.
Compared area where it ran away from starter and it was also same area where teeth were damaged on old plate.
Pulled plate back off and checked end of crank….was not rusted but felt …..course, for lack of better term.
Took a flat file and worked the mounting face and got it good and clean.
Put plate back on and it spun true.
Starter to flex plate looked good but I noticed the plate did not spin true, sorta wobbled.
Compared area where it ran away from starter and it was also same area where teeth were damaged on old plate.
Pulled plate back off and checked end of crank….was not rusted but felt …..course, for lack of better term.
Took a flat file and worked the mounting face and got it good and clean.
Put plate back on and it spun true.
Ok……front upper/lower control arm bushings and grease cups replaced….I had built this suspension 15-18 years ago and the rubber was dry rotted.
This seemed the right time to replace…..
I put some flat paint on my recessed firewall, control arms and a few other pieces and it is an improvement.
409 will be back in place in a few hours after I get a sandwich.
This seemed the right time to replace…..
I put some flat paint on my recessed firewall, control arms and a few other pieces and it is an improvement.
409 will be back in place in a few hours after I get a sandwich.
Attachments
Nice.
Here's a guy doing a 1940 Chevy. He builds them to drive, you won't find any fancy painting on his channel but it's entertaining. He does lots of will it run vid's too. I watch his channel all the time. Here's a playlist for the 1940 episodes:
