1937 Chevy Coupe build

Simps37

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
I have always preferred pre war Fords, but out of the Chev's of this era, the 37 is the pick of the bunch.

Great project, keep the images coming, please don't put Caddy tail lights on the rear, the original type from 37 to 39 always look tidy.

I have the original tulips for the lights...can be seen in one of the pics...they are a great look !
 

Simps37

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
I have always preferred pre war Fords, but out of the Chev's of this era, the 37 is the pick of the bunch.

Great project, keep the images coming, please don't put Caddy tail lights on the rear, the original type from 37 to 39 always look tidy.
I like all fords from the A to the 40....if I did not have the history with this car then a 35-36 Ford would probably be my choice for a pre-war build.
 

Simps37

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Well....the Memorial Day weekend 4 day thrash got reduced to a humbling, Sunday afternoon, wake up to reality.

Thru nobodys fault, time to work was reduced....we got the 409 mated up to the 4L60 tranny and put enough of the serpentine system on to see how it would fit in the chassis that we started years ago made for a small block and th350....the fit was not going to work.....serpentine sat right where the radiator needed to go....and to move it back our crossmember would hit the tranny.......
So we did what was needed and pulled the torch out and started cutting motor mounts and all the fab work out ....we now have a clean set of rails and can do it the right way.....Chris' shop is outfitted with nice tools and a beautiful tubing bender....so we will put it all together the correct way.

Its amazing how long it takes to remove welded in crossmember and grind down all welded areas....oh well.....we hope to get started back in a week or 2.....will update.

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Lost in the 60's

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 1
When I read about the March set up early on, I knew you were going to run into fitment problems. I would toss it and get Allen Grove brackets for a traditional belt system that will hug the block. There's barely enough room for a thick radiator in there as it is. I have a '38 with an SBC and had a special radiator made with the brackets moved back 1 1/4 inch to gain room for an electric fan.
A LOT of work to build a car from a field body... congrats on getting this far.
 

Simps37

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
When I read about the March set up early on, I knew you were going to run into fitment problems. I would toss it and get Allen Grove brackets for a traditional belt system that will hug the block. There's barely enough room for a thick radiator in there as it is. I have a '38 with an SBC and had a special radiator made with the brackets moved back 1 1/4 inch to gain room for an electric fan.
A LOT of work to build a car from a field body... congrats on getting this far.

Well.....If we were shoe-horning this into a running/driving car then I sure might agree with the swapping out the serpentine system, but since going from scratch....we can build mounts and move the engine back as needed....from where the front body mount tabs are located we can see that there will need to be some clearance work done to the firewall, but that was expected, but nothing too terrible.
I bought a cooling fan on the recommendation of guys at Walker Radiator....bought from Cooling Components.....Is ultra thin with high flow.
Is possible that moving this 409/tranny back in the chassis to allow for fitment sure might help handling also from weight distribution....estimated setting it back 4" to 6"......anyone agree?
 

Simps37

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
How could a V-8 be too long when the factory motor was an 800 pound inline six?
Well... the serpentine belt system puts the belt, idlers, alt and a/c in front of the engine instead of around the engine....really ate up some room...might have been ok if had not used it, but then I would have issues with hood side clearance.
Has been a learning experience doing a build like this.
 

Simps37

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Has been awhile since a report....but have gotten some much needed rust/corrosion repair done on the frame rails.
Where the front of the body had sat for years had allowed bad pitting on top of the rails, so we box braced the frame to keep it in place and cut the top of the rails off....drilled spot weld holes in the sides of the rails to reinforce repairs with plates being placed inside and welded into place, then put new top caps on the rails that were plasma cut to follow the contour of the rails. We set back the new top rail so when welding into place it actually welded to the top cap, new reinforcement sides and to the factory outside walls.
With that done we got some frame horn repair done.
Decision has been made to put the chassis back on the table, and drop the big arch on the aftermarket rear rails to sit more horizontal like a factory frame, but do the mods above the 4 link attachment points.....will get both tire clearance and 4 link while keeping trunk space....that will happen after engine/tranny are mounted and new crossmember is fab'd up....hopefully in January.
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Simps37

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Short update.... Its late March and all the work has come to a halt.... Had to remove my chassis/parts from my buddys shop when the space was needed for contract jobs.
So it is all back home, and I am fumbling around on my own. I did find a shop in Ohio that has nice (weld in) tubular crossmember, tranny mount and brake pedal assembly for my stock chassis.....nice stuff....price shipped to my house for all is only $850. Should be ordering it in the next couple of weeks I hope. This is work I can do by myself, then will call the calvary in to help place motor/tranny in correct location. Thinking of building a motor run stand, as I have most everything needed to do it, that way the 409 can be ran....I really hate only being able to rotate it by hand.
 
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