1937 Chevy Coupe build

[Simps37]

I spoke to a builder friend of mine yesterday......
He suggested that I set my chassis to the desired ride height......remove the coil from the shock, use a ratchet strap and compress the shock about 1/3 to 1/2 way, bolt the shock into it top position and swing the lower mount hole out to my 4-link bracket (where I want to mount it)....as long as it did not exceed 20 degrees that I should be ok......mark, reinforce and mount bracket.
Put coil over back on shock and mount on chassis. Said it will raise the chassis but once I start loading chassis it should settle.
May need to swap springs as needed once chassis is loaded.

Sound good to the masses or has experience taught us something new??

 

[Simps37]

It has bee awhile.....2 years....
Since I have touched the coupe.....
The 409 is on a run stand, so safe there.
In fact I moved back to the farm....
Have fixed 2 tractors (to make room in the shop) and last night I drug the chassis into the shop.....
Have spent all day, 14 hours so far, and got the front body mounts back on The chassis and sat the body on it for the first time in 8 years.
Found that:
1) I needed 1” more clearance between the back tires, inner fenders stuck 1/2 way down.....
Will cut inner fenders tomorrow and mini-tub 2.5” on each side.

2) did not care for the fact that rear rails filled the trunk,and it’s a BIG trunk.....
So......I cut a wedge out just behind the 4 link brackets, dropped the rails 6”, welded it up and plated the repair inside/outside.

I am now In full tilt....tally ho.....Git-er-done mode.
Once I get the body sitting as I want then I will set that 409/tranny in between the rails and figure out mounts.

I do have a question....when setting the motor in should the carb mount plates be at 0 degree pitch?
I will throw a few pics up tonight.....
Suggestions are welcome......
I have built cars using “correct” mounts that pretty much put everything in a good starting place....
My first real scratch (my head) start from nothing build.
More later!

 

[Simps37]

Sorry about multiple pics....
Above my pay grade!

 

[IMBVSUR?]

Sorry about multiple pics....
Above my pay grade!

They were still worth looking at twice, or three times

 

[benchseat4speed]

Yeah man you can sure post the hell outta some pics! Glad to see you’re back on it 37-39 Chev coupes are on my top 10 list for sure. Got a soft spot for W engines too

 

[Jim Sullivan]

The engine is usually tilted back 3 to 4 degrees and the intakes are set for that tilt to keep the carbs level. Cool car! Nice to see you're back at it.

 

[Iowa 409 Guy]

Nice stance.

You can go back in and delete any pic if you'd like to.

 

[Don Jacks]

 

[Simps37]

The engine is usually tilted back 3 to 4 degrees and the intakes are set for that tilt to keep the carbs level. Cool car! Nice to see you're back at it.

Jim,
Thank you for the info.....
I had thought that carb plates were level but always good to confirm.

 

[Simps37]

Tires were rubbing inner wheel wells....
Splitting wheel wells today....

 

[Simps37]

Cutting rails down made a lot more room in the trunk

 

[Simps37]

Need to get wheels centered but 4 link is bottomed out so will cut them down.
Have 2” between outside tires and inside fender.

 

[Greg Reimer]

Glad to see that this build is back on ! I saw a '37 Master Deluxe coupe sitting down by work in a fenced yard by a shop years ago, and started keeping an eye on it. It had a Camaro/Firebird/Nova subframe and steering in it, and although I couldn't get up to it and look at it to see what kind of frame work it had, it did have leaf springs in the rear with an 8.5" leaf spring 10 bolt rear end already in it. One sad day it was gone and I haven't seen it since, around 20 years ago. Somebody took on a nice '37 Chevy project. It needed my 409,that's for sure.

 

[Simps37]

Well......wheel wells are split, widened 2.25” and patched with 18ga.
In your mind you see a beautiful job being done like the TV shows always kick out.....but when done it looks sorta like I did it in the dark. Welding 18ga to 83 year old metal is......entertaining.

I will get inside and stitch weld the seams.
Before I am done I will have the new floors, inner firewall and wheel tubs inside/out rhino lined to help seal and tighten it all up.

 

[63 dream'n]

Neat project ........glad to see you’re back with it

 

[Simps37]

Swapped out the power rack/pinion for a manual rack.....have driven many cars without power steering and was not a big issue.
Also if power hoses are in use then sooner or later the pump or hoses will give out, really did not want that hassle.
Also installed a nice front sway bar...will hopefully help the ride with the 409 weight.

 

[Simps37]

Well it is going to be tight....very tight.
Will mock up radiator/fan tomorrow to see if there is room for this beast without destroying the firewall.

 

[Simps37]

I swear this radiator is heavier out of the box than it was in the box....

 

[Simps37]

Boxed the frame where motor mounts attached.....mounts are in....one step closer!

 

[Simps37]

Working on crossmember kit installation today....trying to leave enough room to drop transmission pan if needed makes all the connection pieces about 3/8” short....
Can make it work but frustrating.

Have it mocked up....will tack up the cage then weld it on the bench, going back to test fit regularly. Once I have it completed I will double check all areas then pull motor/tranny to get access to box frame.
Will hang tranny mount then.