1937 Chevy Coupe build

Simps37

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Am thinking about a 4 or 6 point roll bar to tie narrowed rear rails to stock frame.....thoughts?
I know it needs to be supported....also would help make the chassis more ridgid.
 

IMBVSUR?

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
I really like the build and the car. I like your vision so I am not sure I really want to give any advice. However...…. just me. I would find another way to support the rear rails than a roll bar. Not saying it will not work, I am just thinking of the finished car and how "I" not you, would want it to come out. And I don't see a roll bar in my wishes for that car. But it's not mine, its yours. Keep up the good work. Love the car.
 

Simps37

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
I really like the build and the car. I like your vision so I am not sure I really want to give any advice. However...…. just me. I would find another way to support the rear rails than a roll bar. Not saying it will not work, I am just thinking of the finished car and how "I" not you, would want it to come out. And I don't see a roll bar in my wishes for that car. But it's not mine, its yours. Keep up the good work. Love the car.
I get what your saying.....plus a roll bar makes floor pans and interior more complicated.....and also takes away from how it looks....but I know the chassis/rear rails need support.
Thank you for you opinion!!!!!
 

Simps37

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
This is an original frame....called a “Top Hat”......what you see is a top/ears with a bottom cap running the length of the rails, so there is no “ open “ side to box......I completely encased the rails for attaching weld points.....now just need to reinforce where narrowed rear rails attach.
 

Simps37

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
I do know that once the body is bolted to the chassis that it will greatly help support the chassis......but needs more.
 

blkblk63ss

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 5
This is an original frame....called a “Top Hat”......what you see is a top/ears with a bottom cap running the length of the rails, so there is no “ open “ side to box......I completely encased the rails for attaching weld points.....now just need to reinforce where narrowed rear rails attach.
I see that now, carry on!!!
 

Simps37

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Today was a body/409 meet-up for the first time....had to cut the firewall some but will be ok. I put temporary body mounts on the interior supporting cage I have to hold body square....added a few more braces, have doors open/close with good gaps. Rear tire clearance is = on both sides.....
Rolled her out of shop to get a breath of fresh air.
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Simps37

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Question:
When my carb mount surface is at 0 degrees.....
My transmission is at 2.7 degrees down.
Is the rear end suppose to be 2.7 degrees up to match?
 

La Hot Rods

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 15
I think you will want to install the driveshaft first, then you can set your pinion angle.
 

Simps37

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Ok...but I need to get my axle centered in the wheel well, to do that I need to shorten the 4 link bars, to do that I need to know pinion angle so when I measure 4 link bars, I don’t cut them too short.
 

La Hot Rods

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 15
It looks like the 4 bar is already built, so cut the same amount off each bar.
Is the output shaft above or below the pinion?
 

Simps37

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Yes 4 link is built.....pumpkin is not assembled yet.
Current angle on diff is 0, upper rods are bottomed out.
Need to move rear end 4” forward.
Would like to know angle rear is supposed to be, so I can put it there, then measure 4” from that point plus allow about 3/8” on each end for adjustment.
Am I over thinking?
Never been accused of that before!
 
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