1937 Chevy Coupe build

La Hot Rods

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 15
I wouldn't , I would use the vertical face of the pinion mount. You need to know the pinion center line to map out your angles.
 

Barry Taylor

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
I know you can still cut the firewall but did you see what kind of distributor clearance you’ve got. Other than that it’s looking awesome!:good
 

Simps37

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Oh ya....there is more firewall cutting in the future.....wanted to cut as little as needed just to get body located at this time
 

JED

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 5
Then I can measure for a driveshaft
Yes 4 link is built.....pumpkin is not assembled yet.
Current angle on diff is 0, upper rods are bottomed out.
Need to move rear end 4” forward.
Would like to know angle rear is supposed to be, so I can put it there, then measure 4” from that point plus allow about 3/8” on each end for adjustment.
Am I over thinking?
Never been accused of that before!
I wouldn't do a driveshaft yet. Your angles and length are going to change quite a bit from the bare shell that you have now to when the car is fully loaded down with fenders, tank, interior, etc. For that same reason, 3/8" sounds pretty small for tuning in the rear end after you have the car fully loaded. Just my 2 cents. The threaded ends of my 4-bars are almost 3" long. I have them threaded with about 1" out right now and expect to adjust them further (both in and out, depending on the bar) as I load the chassis with more weight of the completed car.112917-RearPanhardBar-IMG_5877.JPG

070518-Rear4-BarAdjusters-IMG_5701c.jpg
 

JED

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 5
CORECTION: I checked my rod ends today (the ones shown in the pictures above). They are from TCI, although I believe Pete & Jakes are the same. The threaded end is 1 7/8" long. They are currently threaded into the bar so that approx. 3/4" of thread is out of the bar (that includes the thread under the jam nut.). Once I get the body on the car and some more weight in it, I will adjust the 4-bars to give me the correct pinon angle. Right now, they are only adjusted to center the axle in the wheel openings. P&J recommendation is to set them up initially at about 1/2 way on the threads.
John
 

Simps37

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Ok....that is about the same thread that I have.....
I will cut down my link bars so that I have about 1/2 thread....or maybe a little less....easier to cut down bars then deal with having too much cut off when final adjustments made.
Thank you for the update!!!!!
 

Simps37

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Changed direction for a little bit....
Wanted to work on the rear body/corners.
Corners were trashed and needed complete rebuild on both sides.
Am not a body man but if you take your time it can be done. .....maybe not as pretty as some shops....but good, solid repairs.
These repairs will be inside the walls if the lower/rear pan and under the fenders.....will eventually be under coated.
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Simps37

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Next came the rear pan.
I have it 90% mocked up.....will finish fitting it tomorrow, pull it back off so I can complete the welding of the inner pan, then put it back on and weld it up.....happy with fit, just need to watch my gaps around trunk lid.F200418D-9E67-4884-94C5-3B55B00D0ABE.jpeg
 

Simps37

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Amateur......that’s the word that I repeated to myself today......
I have put rear pans in cars, jeeps and trucks.....that being said....I was about 1/2 done welding this pan in when I saw my rear fenders sitting in the corner looking at me....and it hit me....I did not test fit them.
These fenders go to the rear of the car....
So I put them on and sure enough...1/2” gap caused by funky bend where fender meets rear pan.....
Had to cut it all out and begin again.....
.......amateur.........glad I like working on old cars!!!!
 

Simps37

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Well....today went a little better.
As stated, I am not a body man, and I have all the respect in the world for guys/gals that can work old metal!

Tail pan is in.....and it looks ok.....will get my metal guru to do some fitting on the deck lid later.

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