1959 Driveshaft

1959chevybr

Well Known Member
Help! Help! Help! Please!!! The scourge of disappointment is starting to settle in and I am the guy that almost always has a smile.. All the issues previously discussed are fixed. I now have a smooth running rear end on the lift with the wheels up and up on the jacks. All is running smooth and true until 58 MPH and even then the wheels and tires run true, the vibration on the lift if mirrored on road test. I also have considerable shutter on takeoff. These are the things we have done, new axle, removed wheel spacers, 3 sets of known good tires and wheels, 3 different balanced drive shafts and a different center section. To regress, it is a 4L60 trans with a longer length, shortened drive shaft. We have raised/lowered the engine, installed new stock height CB and one we modified to 3/4 shorter. We have maxed the amount of shim possible for rear do to length of bolts and removed systematically until there were none. The engine and first shaft have had the same angle and slightly different angle, in combination with the stock and modified CB. The pinion from up to down and in between. I really do not know angles others people have been successful with. I am just really at wits end as to what to try, unless there is a special combination of angles I have not tried it looks like this project is dead in the water. Nothing changes the amount of vibration at 58-65 MPH. We have tried to make it worse and it stays the same. It is almost like I am on the wrong track. We shifted to neutral, gave it gas, let off the gas, shut off the engine while running 60, no change the vibration stays the same. I am running the drive shaft in phase but it did the same before we changed the phase. Maybe other things were wrong at the time it was in the "out of phase" situation.. Thanks for everything guys but if you got any mores ideas shoot them at me.
 

1959chevybr

Well Known Member
Yes, the second drive shaft was a slider (cant think of the proper name) with the use of the billet center bearing. It was somewhat worse with this setup. Went back to the stock parts. Thanks for responding, really need all the ideas.
 

1959chevybr

Well Known Member
Not sure what you are asking on the rear shock. The yoke was trimmed as it was possible to bottom out on the splines, think that is all ok now. I have not learned how to post pictures yet, with some instruction I will give it a try.
 

RCampbell

Well Known Member
Way too much work going on here. I'm betting the problem is not in the drive line. I've had new converters that were faulty
 

1959chevybr

Well Known Member
I know a picture is worth a thousand words but since I have not figured it out yet let me describe. It is mostly a stock setup, longer tans, shorted front shaft. The trans cross member is an aftermarket made for a 700R4. Frame is stock, in the rear I have added a sway bar, adjustable panhard, KYB shocks, 9.5 inch wide rims, 265-45-18 wheels. I am going to see if it will let me attach a picture instead of a file. Ok it worked.. I will take underside pictures tomorrow.
 

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1959chevybr

Well Known Member
I agree converters can cause lots of problems but if I am thinking correctly this test should prove or disprove the converter? Riding at 65 MPH, steady vibration, shifted to neutral and shut the engine off, still had the same vibration until it coasted to under 58 MPH.. What do you think, would this be a conclusive test?
 

Toms63SSQB

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 8
you're going to figure this out sooner or later, probably the last place you look, good luck.
 

1959chevybr

Well Known Member
I have not sure my trouble shooting is exact but running 65 MPH on interstate, I can put in neutral or totally cut the engine off and the vibration stays same until the car slows to under 58 MPH.. I think this is a good test for eng/trans,,, if you don't think so or feel I need to do something different let me know, thanks..
 

Jim Sullivan

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 10
Here is a thought, I believe you previously mentioned that you needed a wheel spacer on one side to get the tires even in the wheel wheels? If you have an adjustable pan hard bar, did you center the differential? Maybe the angle that is off is on the horizontal plane instead of vertical plane? The rear differential may need to be adjusted side to side? I don't even know if this makes sense, but just throwing it out there.
 

1959chevybr

Well Known Member
I think it makes great sense. The drive line "looks" parallel to the frame but I need to investigate this farther. I had put 1 inch spacers in but they for some reason cause wheel wobble so I went back to the 1/4 spacer and wobble is gone, I did have to replace one axle. I will give this a hard look tomorrow.. Thanks.
 

1959chevybr

Well Known Member
I would like to add another point that might make a difference, I am running an aftermarket cross member and it mounts to the lower hole on the frame brace is this what others are doing with the 700R4 or even any automatic?
 

ragtp66

Well Known Member
Not sure how it would affect your particular setup but I had issues with the KYB shocks (I noticed you were using them on your set up) being too long by about 1.25" on the rears. On my 58 when the car was on a lift at full droop it would let the driveshaft contact the fishmouth opening in the rear of the driveshaft tunnel. I figured out after measuring some opd original spiral shocks that the Monroe 5766 were almost exactly the same as the original shock. After switching them the driveshaft had about an 1/8" clearance when at full droop. Another thing worth looking at is maybe the face of the axle flange isn't true. or the brake drums mating surface isn't square. Mine were really stuck on the center hub even using a drum puller, heat and penetrating oil they really didnt want to come off. Try swapping the drums side to side. Some of my drums had some BIG weights on the drum. try also backing off the rear adjusters a couple clicks and see if maybe a brake shoe friction material isn't bonded to the metal backing correctly. It is hard to get anything that isn't made in china. Just throwing some things out there that might be worth a second look. It seems that you have it narrowed down to the rear axle/suspension.

One more link to an article that addressed the front shaft phasing. http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/en...ch-factory-ls-head-performs-best-under-boost/
 

1959chevybr

Well Known Member
Good points.. My KYB shocks are long for sure but at full drop it has about 3/16 clearance so far, I might like trying the
Monroe 5766 just to compare. Brake drums are a point I had not even considered, that's why I am so impressed with this site, a chance to exchange experiences. I have already loosened the Ebrake. I am not sure how to check balance on brake drums, guess I will find out.. Also replaced one axle due to flange run out. I like the new ideas, I think I am beating a dead horse using the paths I have been on.. thanks
 
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