Scary, steering arm goes on the lower holes.
1960 Impala Unisteer System
- Thread starter Peter Birmingham
- Start date
I concur, the steering arms are mounted too high. I doubt the rear tab is stopping at the lower control arm. I don't know the term, but I'm sure there is one which describes turning the wheel too sharply. The tab at the rear of the steering arm should prevent this by bumping into the lower control arm.
I don't know if you had to drill out your steering arms for the mounting holes or not. If so, you may have to drill out the lower holes in the spindle. I know in my spindle, the holes are different diameters. 7/16th vs. 1/2 in.
There is a good chance lowering the steering arms will cut down on the bump steer.
I don't know if you had to drill out your steering arms for the mounting holes or not. If so, you may have to drill out the lower holes in the spindle. I know in my spindle, the holes are different diameters. 7/16th vs. 1/2 in.
There is a good chance lowering the steering arms will cut down on the bump steer.
The lower holes are for the steering arms. The holes are 1/2" but you use 7/16" flat head bolts which will center properly in the 1/2" holes. The spindles were made that way in order to use them on 58-64 as well as 65-70 cars that use the 1/2' bolts.
Peter Birmingham
Well Known Member
1958 delivery, can you get me some info on the 7/16" flat head bolt. My guy said he used the to holes because the bolt heads hit the disc brake.
Sure, I use 7/16-20 flat head socket bolts, I THINK I supply 1 3/4" with those spindles
but I have to look at my inventory to make certain on the length.
but I have to look at my inventory to make certain on the length.
I also do NOT use that metric caliper, I use only large GM calipers (1969-72 Chevelle)for good stopping power.
The large caliper is the way you want to go. I'd get rid of those metric calipers since the cost isn't that great...if not now then down the road. I have the metric calipers on mine and they are going to go away soon.
HemiChallenger71
Well Known Member
What was the end result of all this?
Peter Birmingham
Well Known Member
Here's where we are now. We have given up on the Unisteer rack and pinion and have returned it for a credit. After two months of trying to make it work, four trips to the alignment shop and some new parts it was time. Unisteer was very helpful, made us some new parts and shipped them overnight, no charge but we just couldn't make it work and we can't figure out why. We are going back to the standard linkage with a power steering box, hope to have that installed in a week or two, then we'll see how it drives. I will post the results of that when done.
Peter Birmingham
Well Known Member
Removed the Unisteer system and installed a power steering conversion kit with a 500 series power steering box, new centerlink, new pitman and idler arm. Basically the whole linkage is brand new. We lowered the steering arm. The car goes down the road straight and steers good at higher speeds but at low speeds or stopped the steering turns really hard. Does it take time to wear the new ball joints and linkage in so they work smoothly? The power steering pump is working fine along with the new power steering box but it acts like manual steering, Any Ideas???
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There is no break-in time needed on the steering or suspension parts. Just make sure they are greased.
It sounds like there is not enough pump pressure. Try removing the pump reservoir cap and start the car and see if it looks like the fluid is circulating in the reservoir. If it looks to be circulating then I would have the pump pressure checked. If it doesn't look like it is circulating, you may have a bad pump or it could still have air in the system.
It sounds like there is not enough pump pressure. Try removing the pump reservoir cap and start the car and see if it looks like the fluid is circulating in the reservoir. If it looks to be circulating then I would have the pump pressure checked. If it doesn't look like it is circulating, you may have a bad pump or it could still have air in the system.
Peter Birmingham
Well Known Member
I will check the reservoir to see if the oil is circulating. How do you check the pump pressure????
HemiChallenger71
Well Known Member
Thank you for the feed back. If not for this thread I would've been planning on a uni-steer system.
Was the power steering pump from uni-steer for the rack or did you order it on your own?
Was the power steering pump from uni-steer for the rack or did you order it on your own?
Peter Birmingham
Well Known Member
The power steering pump is the original pump that came with the car for the power assist steering. The pump was rebuilt and reused. I assume it is working but I don't know how to check for flow or pressure?
HemiChallenger71
Well Known Member
If I had to guess a pump for the ram assist steering wouldnt put out enough pressure or flow for a more "modern" type steering box.
The pressures are quite a bit different for for the ram type of assist and the power steering gear box that was used in the later cars. The pump pressure is adjustable at the relief valve in the pump. The different shop manuals for early and later cars show how its done, but you will need a pressure gauge that reads to 1000 psi.
The pump pressure is checked with a power steering pump pressure gauge setup. If the pump was working with the previous setup, it maybe the pressure regulator/ relief valve is for a lower pressure than your box requires? A higher pressure valve may be needed. It may also be a problem with the steering box . Just thinking out loud here.
If you are sure power steering pump is working as per all tip's above and still not turning easily just thinking. Did you replace lower ball joint's also . I know you did upper's with new control arm's. I have had several car's and pickup's where they were sticky on the steering and harder to steer, and were you pointed steering it would stay there. I found some ball joint's that were hard to turn. Check them by disconnecting outer tie rod from spindle and leave car weight on wheel and turn wheel back and forth side to side ,it should turn easily. Of course i had alignment turn table to do this test That was more common with sealed joint's but still possible on grease able if they don't take grease . Another thing to check with wheel's back on ground and all connected linkage is if you you give more engine rpm setting in neutral and try to turn ,does it turn easier or no difference at all.
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