1961 Impala 2 Door Sedan - Let's Get Started...

tcb-1

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 1
Funny thing Don, by the stamp pad on the block, it originally was equipped with the 3 speed od. Once I get the 235 out, I’ll see what I need to do. And your right about 500 cfm. The 1406 is 600 and might be a bit large for a stock 283 build.
 

Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
To make it better,that carb uses a very small annular discharge primary on the front,and a much larger secondary set of bores that have an adjustable air flap.You could tune this thing to be really responsive[sharp].The next size up in the AVS-2 series is a 650 which could work as well,but the 500 would be sharper feeling.
 

tcb-1

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 1
To make it better,that carb uses a very small annular discharge primary on the front,and a much larger secondary set of bores that have an adjustable air flap.You could tune this thing to be really responsive[sharp].The next size up in the AVS-2 series is a 650 which could work as well,but the 500 would be sharper feeling.
Don,
You thinking this intake? It’s the EPS with fill tube. I need to read up on it more, but it looks like a good performer for a stock-ish 283. Would be easier to find over a stock iron 4 barrel intake.
 

tcb-1

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 1
A quick update. The trunk renovation is coming along. After a thorough spray of alklyd red primer (like factory), I did a quick gray primer spray. This spray isn’t heavy and I purposefully didn’t get 100% coverage. Now will come the splatter paint. Still need to pick up a cheap Harbor Freight gun and do some practicing, since this type of paint takes some practice to get the factory look. I’ve had some ask why put so much detail into something no one will see. Easy. It’s the small details that make the biggest difference. A380B71B-0D9C-47BA-9696-11FC798376D3.jpeg

Since I’m on the subject of the trunk... The inner trunk lid was filthy when I got this car. I thought I was going to have to take it off to respray it. I was on a message board a few months ago and someone was espousing the effects of TR-3 cleaner wax. Well, I’m a believer. Talk about brightening up door jambs and non maintained painted surfaces. Two coat on the inner trunk lid and I’m shocked. Looks like it just rolled off the Fisher body line!
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tcb-1

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 1
Success! Trunk spatter painted to as close to factory as I could. Even did a bit of overspray on the hinges. I used 3/4 of a quart. This paint comes out of the gun like pancake batter. And remember, this paint does not need a protective clear coat (a big plus). So now it’s time to let cure (one day to handle, 3-4 days for light use) and gauge results/durability. 12A58C15-A6A0-48C0-9B24-02E9BA4664AA.jpeg 4504756F-D6FF-40A9-89FA-C076522D4331.jpeg

Also got my engine home. This is a build the shop owner’s father did before he passed away. When I asked him about what cam his pop installed, he said, “It may be pretty warm, dad never liked to do anything half ass”. Sooo, this could get interesting

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tcb-1

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 1
Had a few people ask about the process for the trunk coating, so here she goes.

I prepped the trunk floor by degreasing the entire thing. Follow that with a wire wheel or wire brush. Degrease again. Make sure all loose paint and surface rust is prepped for paint. Spray the entire trunk with red alkyd primer. The factory dipped these cars in red primer, so make sure you get everywhere; under the package tray, the wheel well tops, the back seat brace, in the fender dropouts, etc. Then after the red primer has cured, go back with gray primer. This is where a factory appearing trunk starts to come together (use your artist vision here)! Only get the gray primer mainly where you can get to from standing outside of the trunk. I did not hit the rear seat brace, under the package tray, and above the wheel wells. Let this cure for a few days.

-Zolatone can be purchased through TCP Global or Amazon.
-Buy a cheap $19.00 Harbor Freight lplv gun, #60612. This gun will have a 2.0mm tip installed.
-Clean the gun thoroughly because it's filled with anti-rust inhibitor for that long trip from China... haha
-With the gun clean now, set the air delivery system up. I simply used a 3.5 double hotdog compressor and it worked great. Hint. I dialed the regulated pressure from the compressor in to 30-32 psi when the trigger is pulled. If you set the regulator to 30-32 psi before the trigger is pulled, the pressure when activated will drop.
-Stir the Zolatone only, do not shake. The final product will have a consistency of thin pancake batter.
-There's an air bleed on the side of the gun close to the nozzle. I found if left open, more suction from the pot will occur. In this mode, the paint will flow.
-Experiment. You want the paint to come out so that with 3 or 4 passes, the paint completely covers the surface you are experimenting on.
-Once you get the paint dialed in, go to work. Again, only get to those places you can reach outside of the trunk. Don't stretch as far back under the package tray as you can. The line painters at Fisher body wasn't going for a show finish, so a bit of overspray on the trunk hinges and trunk hinge box is perfect. I have a picture I added a few posts up, that shows a survivor '63 Impala trunk hinge box partially covered in trunk paint.

If anyone has any more questions or if I can help, pm me. Not a lot of folks know about this paint and this info might help when restoring your trunk. The results are factory fresh and the cured product is very tough! Good luck!
 

tcb-1

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Supporting Member 1
A little progress over the holidays. First was getting my steering wheel repaired prior to paint. After reading several articles on repairing cracks in these old wheels, I decided to give it a try. First was to cut each crack larger with a Dremel. That in itself sounded a bit nuts, but I did it. Then, I dressed each new valley with a triangular file. As I read, this give the epoxy more surface area to grip... makes sense. Then I bought PC-7 as recommended. Use a wooden coffee stirrer or popsicle stick to apply the mixed epoxy. Then when you get it pushed into the valley, use a wet finger to smooth the outer surface. This epoxy takes about 3 days to fully cure at 70* F. After curing, sand with 120 and then 220. Got to admit, it smoothed out great and looks substantial.
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Got an Edelbrock EPS dual plane manifold for the small block build. This one has the oil filler tube up front like original. Edelbrock did not offer a black tube and cap (boo!) so I have to blast the chrome off of these and paint. Anyone have an original tube and cap they’d like to sell??

As soon as it warms up a bit, the manifold will be getting a matching coat of Chevrolet Red/Orange engine paint. Also have ordered a new timing chain cover to replace the chrome one. Again, I’m going for as bone stock appearing as I can.

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Lastly, two things I don’t know how I lived without!!! Got tired of borrowing an engine lift and paying others to bead blast parts.

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tcb-1

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Supporting Member 1
Long week, not much accomplished with work and 2 boys that are into every extracurricular possible it seems...

I did get my front driverside fender back from paint match. My paint and body guy did another great job. I got it installed and wetsanded it into the old paint and it’s darn near perfect. Just a few touches of wear here and there and it will look like it’s never been off!! The first and second pic is what it looked like originally. Third and forth is now.
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Got the new manifold painted. Also took off the chrome timing cover and replaced it with a painted stock version. Think I’m going to leave the boltheads natural though for a little contrast.
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nana1962409

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Supporting Member 1
It all looks great. Just one thing I see the spark plugs in the motor look like they are 5/8 socket which would make them a taper seat plug and your heads should have gasket seat plugs. If I recall correctly it was around 1971 when Chevy switched from gasket seat to taper seat plugs. Maybe I am wrong on the spark plug size being it’s a little hard to tell in a picture but it’s something to check before you run it.
 

tcb-1

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Supporting Member 1
Interesting catch, nana1962409! I hadn't had a chance to look into the plugs that were in it. The plugs that are in it now are 5/8" Champion RV17YC and are taper fit. Since this engine is a '67 283, it's supposed to take an RJ12YC (crush gasket). So with that said, I don't know why the incorrect plugs are in it. Maybe it was the only thing he had on the shelf to keep the internals clean (hasn't been bench tested yet)? However, I was planning on buying the correct plugs anyway due to the fact that I'll be going with a Pertronix (stock appearing) ignition.

I got this engine for a song. New lifters, new .030 pistons, rings, block honed and tanked, heads tanked and cleaned, new timing chain set, new cam, new rockers and springs, new main bearings, new oil pump, new oil pan, and a fresh coat of GM red/orange..... for, shhhh..... $700
 
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tcb-1

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Supporting Member 1
Well all this discussion about proper plugs got me to thinking about this engine. I knew the block was from a '67 Impala and I assumed the heads were to until I looked up the head casting symbol. Well, the heads are '57 Powerpack fuelie versions #3731539 castings. Not crazy rare, and not necessarily valuable unless you are restoring a '57 fuel injected Belair or Vette.

My little Frankenstein engine just got stranger, but that's okay. I still got a great deal on it!
 
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