1961 Impala 2 Door Sedan - Let's Get Started...

IMBVSUR?

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Jeff, I went with the Pertronix "stock look" Flame Thrower, Ignitor I distributor PN# D104600, the Pertronix Flame Thrower, 40,000 volt, 1.5 ohm, coil PN#40111, and the Pertronix "Stock Look" wire set PN#708101.

As far as the air ride components go, I piece mine together. I find buying the components separate, saves money and you can build a system that you want. I run Viair compressors, AVS switch boxes, SMC manual valves, and Slam Specialities bags, religiously. With build in this Impala however, I am going to run a Slam Specialities valve manifold because I want to hide/camoflage the components in the trunk. You can buy entire ready made systems for your '65 from Air Ride Technologies, and if you go that direction. It's a bit more expensive than building your own system, but they have a great reputation and their components are bulletproof! Go to a friend of mine, Boris Maryanovsky of Street Machinery in Euclid Ohio and tell him Doug Foust sent you. He can set you up from stem to stern!



Thanks for the information. I have both Pertronix II and III distributors. Just wondering how people like the III with the electronic rev module. As for the air ride. I got my car in the stance it is in. Its ok, however the ride sucks unless you have nice roads. I want to bring it up a little and even have thought about back to stock. It did have ride tech air system at one point, and the coils are ride tech. I have never messed with air bags. I guess for many years I looked at them like hydraulics. I seen too many cars cut up, ruined and trashed in the 70's to ever put that on my car, or purchase one that has had it. I have been warming up to the air bags as opposed to a complete stock rebuild though. Just cannot make up mind on the suspension and even worse, I can NEVER make up mind on a set of wheels and tires.
 

Carmine

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 10
I forgot to mention that my father had one of those in '66. Also a beautiful car. When I turned 16, he would let me drive it. Having racing in my blood, every chance I got, I would meet up at the custard stand with the boys and we would go to our designated 1/4 mile strip. Have to tell you, as heavy as it was, that 390/325 engine and the 4 speed automatic transmission, would make that car move. Never went against any muscle cars with it, but it could hold it's own. Fond memories. Wouldn't mind owning another one someday, Carmine.
 

tcb-1

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 1
Windshield out and pinch welds clean and degreased. Would really like to get a spotless new windshield, but I’m sure the fit and finish of a repopped one wouldn’t be the same. There’s some light wiper rub marks on my original LOF, but I call that character. Test fitting and stretching the weatherstrip before I put it up for a while. 1447E764-FDBB-4799-A312-022213CFDB32.jpeg
Also rebuilt the upper steering joint. I’m pointing at where I need to add a wavy washer (per the service manual). BCCAFCC3-26C1-4B20-8E4B-1FD6C99F19A2.jpeg
Well, I got the new regulators in and the side glass bedded. Also replaced the weatherstrip on the quarter windows and felts for all windows. Very pleased with how clean it turned out. 5168981A-0C78-43D5-8EF8-BE8ED42284A1.jpeg
Lastly, I’ve buttoned up the steering column rebuild. All new seals and bearings. NOS chrome trim pieces for the steering wheel. Rebuilt both reverse and turn signal switches and Lubriplated everything as factory.9C3AB7BF-D849-43A4-9821-922296B1D760.jpeg00ACB2C3-5152-4EA4-81C9-9A5FE6BD6772.jpeg
Next on the agenda, is front suspension teardown and getting a small trailer worth of parts over to the sand blaster. Also will be taking my original Harrison radiator in for a complete rebuild.
 

tcb-1

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 1
I had the same thoughts on my windshield when I had it out years ago I didn’t know how the quality of a repop would be so had it reinstalled with the same wiper mark on the left side as you have!

I’m going to start investigating someone to polish the scratches out. My scratches aren’t deep enough to catch a fingernail in, so it may work?? If I get it done with good results, I’ll report back.
 

blkblk63ss

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 5
I’m going to start investigating someone to polish the scratches out. My scratches aren’t deep enough to catch a fingernail in, so it may work?? If I get it done with good results, I’ll report back.
I’m going to start investigating someone to polish the scratches out. My scratches aren’t deep enough to catch a fingernail in, so it may work?? If I get it done with good results, I’ll report back.
Eastwood has a window polishing kit $29.00
 

tcb-1

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 1
Little progress. Frame done. All new front end rebuilt with polyurethane bushings. Everything new, blasted and either painted or powdercoated. Air bags in and plumbed. 2” drop spindles and disc brakes on. Next comes wiring, heater box, steering linkages, and brake lines. Speaking of brake lines, I’m getting ready to buy a Mastercool tube flaring tool. The lines I got with my power brake kit absolutely suck. So, I’m going to make my own. Heard great things about the hydraulic type flaring tools. $300 is a bit steep, but new lines that may or may not fit will cost that much as well after everything is said and done.

Also had my original Saginaw slash Muncie 3 speed rebuilt by a local circle track guy. Now, it’s as tight as a drum, shifts smoothly, and looks great. Phil has a correct bell housing I need to get now. I promise Phil, I will get up there this century!!

Came to the conclusion I’m not going to run 20” rims front and back. Once I test mounted them I thought it killed the natural flow of the lines. Yes, I’m one of those people that the wrong set of rims can ruin a car.

Anyway, I keep hemorrhaging money. Are we having fun yet? lol
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blkblk63ss

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 5
I see those flaring sets online for $85.00. There are better buys out there than $300.00 .
 
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Jim Sullivan

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 10
I have a Master Cool hydraulic flare tool. Works great and it does standard, double and bubble flares, push connect and Gm fuel line flares. I worked a deal with my wife several years ago. We were going to sell her 97 Pontiac and all of the brake and fuel lines were badly rusted. Neither of us were comfortable selling the car with questionable lines, so I told her I will replace all of the lines, but, only if we purchased a hydraulic flare tool(with house money and not car fund money;)). I still use the tool all of the time, I even made a dip stick tube for my 409, using a push connect flare.:D
 

tcb-1

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 1
I see those flaring sets online for $85.00. There are better buys out there than $300.00 .

Happen to have a manufacturer’s name or link? We are talking hydraulic, correct? I’m all for saving a bit of money. Btw, I’ll be flaring stainless steel tube. The Mastercool brand was the only one I could find that specifically said it could be used for stainless.
 
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