1962 dash and instruments....
- Thread starter denson1932
- Start date
It is much easier if you remove the two screws attaching the fuse block and remove the entire dash harness and install it to the dash panel on the work bench. Then take the entire assembly and install it in the vehicle. Also, your cowl vent grills should be painted satin black.
Drop the steering column down on the floor or a low box with a soft rag. The steering column bolted up will prevent the dash from being installed -so you need to drop it down.
Put two boxes on either side of the steering column to support the dash -to lift into place - after you have attached the entire underdash harness to the back of the dash, the ignition switch wiring, heater controls wiring. Its easier to install the glove box on the dash.
The glove box is very close to the heater box on the inside firewall - so install the heater box first to the inside firewall. If you have factory interior lights under the corners of the dash run those under the dash hanging from the factory holders up high under the dash. The vent cables can be installed after the dash is attached with the philips screws. Make sure you have all the clips on your dash for the philips mounting screws before you install the dash -there are 3 clip on the top edge and two on the bottom two corners all for the philips screws.
Your dash is missing the belair chrome strip across the front -unless you aren't using one. All my extra belair dashes have the chrome strip -original belair chrome strips have labels(like the Impala dash) stamped into the chrome strip. Interesting look with the red painted Impala strip with the top chrome not painted behind the belair script on the passenger side of the dash.
The steering column has a small rubber Ushaped factory seal on the painted edge closest to the painted dash so its not metal to metal. Don't forget to install your firewall pad either before the heater box and the dash insert. ts not easy to install the carpet under the firewall pad rubber bottom strip, and get it to stay in place.
Paul
Put two boxes on either side of the steering column to support the dash -to lift into place - after you have attached the entire underdash harness to the back of the dash, the ignition switch wiring, heater controls wiring. Its easier to install the glove box on the dash.
The glove box is very close to the heater box on the inside firewall - so install the heater box first to the inside firewall. If you have factory interior lights under the corners of the dash run those under the dash hanging from the factory holders up high under the dash. The vent cables can be installed after the dash is attached with the philips screws. Make sure you have all the clips on your dash for the philips mounting screws before you install the dash -there are 3 clip on the top edge and two on the bottom two corners all for the philips screws.
Your dash is missing the belair chrome strip across the front -unless you aren't using one. All my extra belair dashes have the chrome strip -original belair chrome strips have labels(like the Impala dash) stamped into the chrome strip. Interesting look with the red painted Impala strip with the top chrome not painted behind the belair script on the passenger side of the dash.
The steering column has a small rubber Ushaped factory seal on the painted edge closest to the painted dash so its not metal to metal. Don't forget to install your firewall pad either before the heater box and the dash insert. ts not easy to install the carpet under the firewall pad rubber bottom strip, and get it to stay in place.
Paul
1961 Bubble Boy
Well Known Member
That sounds crazy and like extra work! But it turns out it's not! That is how it was done at the plant. It's much easier and quicker making all the correct connections and double checking your work on a bench than looking backwards with it sitting on your knees.
denson1932
Well Known Member
Paul, thanks for the excellent tips and aids on the wiring sequence and dash assembly...
since i have the padded dash option on the drivers side only (was deteriorated but i patched it and painted it just for the patina effect) do i need the black rubber U-shaped trim on the edge of the dash also?
Good eyes, you noticed the pass side dash, but look closely... the driver's dash also has the 'Impala' trim masked and painted...just trying to do the car a little different (like satin red not satin black vent grills). Confucius sez: " Man who pays bill picks own colors".
since i have the padded dash option on the drivers side only (was deteriorated but i patched it and painted it just for the patina effect) do i need the black rubber U-shaped trim on the edge of the dash also?
Good eyes, you noticed the pass side dash, but look closely... the driver's dash also has the 'Impala' trim masked and painted...just trying to do the car a little different (like satin red not satin black vent grills). Confucius sez: " Man who pays bill picks own colors".
I like the look -nice, you can tell them you have a Belair Impala special order that will get them going...
I can send you pictures of the U shape piece. That piece I think helps not chip your dash or steering column.
Not sure if it would stop a rattle since I have them on my car. I can send you a piece in an envelope -I have found items that work
since these rubber pieces get lost. It likes to fall off when installing steering column. -very small amount of glue in it.
Paul
I can send you pictures of the U shape piece. That piece I think helps not chip your dash or steering column.
Not sure if it would stop a rattle since I have them on my car. I can send you a piece in an envelope -I have found items that work
since these rubber pieces get lost. It likes to fall off when installing steering column. -very small amount of glue in it.
Paul
1961 Bubble Boy
Well Known Member
Both rubber moldings ( one small one between the steering column and cluster assembly, and one larger one between cluster assembly and dash ) are both what we call gap hiders. They are purely there to make the gaps between parts look uniform by hiding the actual gap from view.
The larger molding between the cluster assembly and dash is omitted on a padded dash option. The pad covers the gap so the gap hider is not needed.
Nice advice tips..... You guys rock!!!!
Guess so...I guess he told you Dan!!!!!!!!!
denson1932
Well Known Member
The dash is finally installed. the only way i could get it to install is what Dan suggested that being pull the wiring harness back out of the car and install it to dash on the bench...i didn't want to do that because i already had carpet, kick panels, park brake installed and the wires to those were buried...but i could not get the LEFT side wires or bulbs hooked up with the dash laid out in the car...even unscrewing the bulkhead/fuseblock only gained me 3" i was still short especially little bulbs...next i tried just installing the dash with the hopes of hooking up everything still loose from underneath...what a joke, after dropping clutch linkage and disconnecting a slew of other things i still couldn't reach the unplugged items....back in their day Chevy mechanics probably hated working under the dash of a '61 or '62 Chevy....on the bench i plugged everything in then tested each wire from the bulkhead with a 12 volt or ground to verify each bulb or circuit working...i found the white plastic light tunnels deteriorated inside the speedo case for the left/right blinkers (green arrows) so i had to disassemble and wrapped the remains with white electrical tape for a temp fix...temp until the next owner 10 years from now wants to do it better.
Also i found the fuel gauge not functional, the resistor on the back was OPEN! ...a little wire winding severed on the resistor...i drilled a really small hole thru each brass rivet and threaded the leads of a 27 ohm 5 watt resistor thru the holes and then soldered on backside...clearance in the dash mounting bracket is too tight i am not recommending this fix to anyone!!...but judging by the factory clearance for the TAPERED case of the clock (to clear steering column) and it's 12V power lead (always HOT) its all packed in there reel tight on a '62 isn't it now? Note for bench test, the fuel gauge needs power (12 volts positive DC) to the DRIVERS side stud, it needs a GROUND to the case, and it needs a sensor of 0 ohms for 'empty' and 30 ohms for 'full'; hooked from the PASSENGER side stud <>to the case which is GROUND (12 volts negative). If you take one apart you will notice that the brass rivets where clinched to the inner foil may corrode, also there is a layer of exposed foil on the backside of the gauge mechanism which HAS to contact a portion of the case where it is NOT PAINTED green inside....
Also i found the fuel gauge not functional, the resistor on the back was OPEN! ...a little wire winding severed on the resistor...i drilled a really small hole thru each brass rivet and threaded the leads of a 27 ohm 5 watt resistor thru the holes and then soldered on backside...clearance in the dash mounting bracket is too tight i am not recommending this fix to anyone!!...but judging by the factory clearance for the TAPERED case of the clock (to clear steering column) and it's 12V power lead (always HOT) its all packed in there reel tight on a '62 isn't it now? Note for bench test, the fuel gauge needs power (12 volts positive DC) to the DRIVERS side stud, it needs a GROUND to the case, and it needs a sensor of 0 ohms for 'empty' and 30 ohms for 'full'; hooked from the PASSENGER side stud <>to the case which is GROUND (12 volts negative). If you take one apart you will notice that the brass rivets where clinched to the inner foil may corrode, also there is a layer of exposed foil on the backside of the gauge mechanism which HAS to contact a portion of the case where it is NOT PAINTED green inside....
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