1964 SS trim removal

Skip FIx

Well Known Member
I've looked on you tube and a bad set of videos on removing chrome trim to remove rear window and windshield trim so I thought I would post some things I've found. Some of you may know these but some may not like me. I've pulled trim off later second gen Camros Firebirds and even my 65 GTO but the Impalas is different in how the clips are in. It also did not help how much sealant/putty there was in trying to get the clips to release. We often had to dig that or even the window rubber around the clips to try and get them to release. The good thing is all that sealant crap did it's job and there was surprisingly no rust in the channels-unlike A bodies like my GTO and Chevelles. Pulling the package tray off and the paint was as shiny as 1964! From looking at these I bet neither glass was ever removed.

So do do the rear glass first you need to remove the trim that goes around the sail panel. There is a speed nut on a stud in the trim but also the two clips one at the front near the quarter window that is under some black tape in a hole inside(pictured) and one in the trunk. Since the clip at the front was not releasing that would have made it easier. The lower rear window trim has a clip in it's channel that clips in a clip under the window gasket. So a clip in a clip on the lower section,these were also just half in the bottom clip to one side. Sides and top section trim just use the single clips but are a pain when there is so much putty sealant it almost fills the chrome trim!

Windshield-what freaking engineer designed this sequence!! To pull off the side windshield trim there are two screws one top and one at the bottom UNDER the window weatherstrip channel. So the weatherstrip channel has to be removed to get to the top one , on the passenger side to get to both. And if the weatherstrip as been glued in the channel good luck not tearing it. So how did they do that at the dealerships to replace a cracked windshield?

Good and bad news I was planning on leaving the original paint with it's patina look but having to remove so much of the trim it is darned near ready to prep for new paint!
 

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Skip FIx

Well Known Member
And when you look in the catalog for rear wondow clip there is "rear glass clips", "rear window and reveal molding clips", and belt line clips".Not sure if beltline are the side strips or the quarter trim clips.
 

pvs409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 11
I have done back window removals on 3 hardtops. I always had a old time glass guy( or a trained by old timer younger guy) install all my new glass and one original back glass with all new weatherstrip.

I assume you had the pointed ( shaped lIke a arrow reveal molding tool to release the clips?)

Do not reuse the original windshield and back glass rubbers (Steele weatherstrip is the one to use to minimize leaks occurring ) I also the glass installer install my polished stainless trim after installing new reveal molding clips to the pinch weld( after installing caulk as noted below)
Be sure to place caulk on both sides of the 3 clips on the curved trim( if you don’t they will leak). I use 3M black strip caulk to seal the studs and hex nuts.

The windshield and back glass is not glued, the rubber weatherstrip in installed dry....., After you reinstall the glass with new weatherstrip you must use bedding caulk ( or 3M strip caulk similar to the original after the glass is installed, again to prevent leaks. This caulk goes “on the outside“ of all top and sides of the new rubber windshield & back glass seals- using a plastic tool to press the caulk in place. Install the caulk before installing the stainless.
My old time glass guy who did 100’s of them back when the cars were only a few years old told me to seal the rubbers ( similar to what the factory did, but you don’t need as much as they used of the gray/white caulk.

the front and rear reveal molding clips are different if you are buying new ones. Your pictures clearly show the original locations to reinstall the reveal molding clips

I would reuse your original curved stainless clips (6 total) if they are not damaged. The repro side and bottom rear window clip set - the studs for the curved stainless on the repros can come loose from the clips and turn( You should install the new hex nuts on the reproduction clips to pre thread them off the car..
Paul
 

Skip FIx

Well Known Member
Thought I posted earlier but did not take.
Thanks Paul.

Yes the pointed trim tool there was just so much putty filling the entire chrome piece you could not get it in!

My curved trim clips are pretty rusted. That strip caulk is good stuff. On the Camaro/Firebird seals the stud for the rear trunk spoiler and the vents in the kick panels.
 

pvs409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 11
if your curved trim slide in clips are not rusted though on the mounting surfaces. I would bead blast them
and reuse them, they have much better stud mounts than the repro clips -

where reproduction here the studs can turn with the nuts ( I had a pair that had to
JB weld the studs) after cutting threads in the new studs.... and I am not sure that will keep the studs from turning during installation back on the car...

this is the set I am referring to fpr the curved stainless and the lower back glass -the studs are not cut for the hex nuts and mounted poorly in the clips
https://show-cars.com/product/3949
 

Skip FIx

Well Known Member
I see I guess they consider the bottom rear glass trim part of the "beltline" and why they have the "double clip" piece in that kit. Mine are pretty gone, held too much East Texas red dirt in there! Wonder if you could tack weld the stud without killing the spring heat treatment of the clip?
 

pvs409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 11
I would weld the repro studs -from the set I just had to fix -2 studs with JB Weld.
pre threading the repro studs with the new hex nuts is also necessary using a small vise grip to hold the studs.....
The open clips (2 of them) -have the weakest studs.
The repro clips are not spring loaded for fit... -they just slide into the trim (I have pictures - 2 horizontial studs and one vertical into the trunk...
all the repro clips do not fit as tight as the originals when sliding into the curved chrome, -so 3M strip caulk is need to hold them from falling out
before you can get all three clips installed into the body holes.
Paul
 
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