348 in a '33 Roadster

JED

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 5
I would like to offer a possible solution for a fan that i have used on 2 W motors and that is a Speedway 6 bladed aluminum fan (w/o) clutch bolted directly to your pump, without spacers of course. These fans resemble GM fans except blades are evenly spaced and are compact and around 40 bucks. They do not make noise like flex fans and they WON'T flex towards your radiator. Unfortunately, i am not home to tell you how much clearance you would have left, if any. Just more input for you.

Thanks, Dean. I will check it out. It looks like it might be a solution, but I will have to get one to check the fit. Thank you for the suggestion. I did not know these were available.
John
 

JED

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 5
Different item: I removed the rotating assembly (crank, rods, pistons) from the block. I am currently placing them in a storage tub filled with oil (10 gallons) to keep them from rusting, etc. until I am ready to start the rebuild. I can't store it standing up because I can't find a container that is deep enough. I will probably be storing it for about a year until I get ready for the rebuild. Is it okay to store the crank on its side (laying down) or will it take a set (e.g., bend) without supporting it at the journals?
John
 

Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
Stand it up,coat the journal surfaces with grease,wrap it in a garbage bag. It'll be ready when you are.Every machine shop that I've ever been in stores them on the end,just figured that they had their reasons.If you're concerned bout it falling or getting knocked over,bolt a flex plate or flywheel on before you bag it up.
 

Iowa 409 Guy

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 15
Could be hard to stand up with the rods and Pistons on there. I'd take them off. Might be a bit more work, but I'd sleep better.
 

JED

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 5
Okay, I guess I will take it out of the storage container, grease it up and get an old flex plate to put on it to stand it up. Anyone need 10 gallons of cheap oil? I had coated it with oil and covered it when I took it out of the engine, but it was going dry in some places so I put it in the oil bath.

Dave: I have the rods & pistons off the crank, but they are all in the oil in the storage tub with the crank.
 

Iowa 409 Guy

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 15
Okay, I guess I will take it out of the storage container, grease it up and get an old flex plate to put on it to stand it up. Anyone need 10 gallons of cheap oil? I had coated it with oil and covered it when I took it out of the engine, but it was going dry in some places so I put it in the oil bath.

Dave: I have the rods & pistons off the crank, but they are all in the oil in the storage tub with the crank.

Duh.... not sure what I was thinking there.. .I would do what your doing and bag it.
 

JED

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 5
I finally got some extra "car" money and got some more parts in. I ordered the Sanderson silver ceramic "block hugger" headers (CC409) and they arrived Monday. I was very surprised at how well they fit and clear both the steering box/shaft and the starter. The older units did not. It looks like I will not have any issues with the steering shaft to steering box clearance or the starter clearance (starter is just for mock-up - final unit will not be yellow).

061019-DriverSideHeader-4.jpg 061019-PassSideHeader-4.jpg

061019-DriverSideHeader-7.jpg061019-PassSideHeader-3.jpg

I also mocked up the stainless steel fuel tank from Rock Valley Antiques. I will have to wait to drill out the mounting holes in the mounting brackets until after I install the body on the frame so that I get the filler neck in the right position. I put an Aeromotive Stealth 540 high volume fuel injection pump in the tank in place of the original '90's Chevy T.P.I. pump. The Aeromotive pump will support the 58 psi pulse width modulation requirements of the FITech injection system I plan to use.
061019-GasTankMockup-1.jpg
I also mocked up the Walker radiator with the stock 348 water pump. I purchased the single groove pulleys from Show Cars and used them to mock up radiator to pulley clearances. I looks like I will have to mount an electric pusher fan on the front of the radiator. I am still working that issue. BTW, I mocked-up two of the six Hallibrand 5-spokes that I have for the car for no other reason than to see if I like them. I will still need to check clearances with the body & fenders installed. I have 4ea 7.5" wide 15" wheels and 2 ea 8.5" wide 15" wheels. The ones in the photo are the 8.5" rears and 7.5" fronts.
021619_RadiatorInstall-IMG_6343.JPG 022519_RadiatorInstall-IMG_8975.JPG
Still having fun....but making slow progress, severely limited by funds availability at this time, but I am continuing to press on.
John
 

JED

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 5
I sent this in about a month ago when Hot Rod did a call for garage tours, thinking it would never be picked to show. I was surprised to see the engine compartment in the lead in photos and thought “that looks familiar”! The video is amateur, but “Welcome to my ’Happy Place’ “! You may have to turn the volume up, I speak a little quietly.

Enjoy my 60 seconds of fame. I did/am!

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/soc...CF01BF282DB7FD71D65F34F32BE1A7E0029C7866DB7E0

John
 

32witha409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
JED, the mid rise (not high rise) 348 truck water pump will just about center the fan vertically on the radiator. Running a 409 and that pump in my 32. Worked out perfectly.
 

JED

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 5
JED, the mid rise (not high rise) 348 truck water pump will just about center the fan vertically on the radiator. Running a 409 and that pump in my 32. Worked out perfectly.

32witha409: Thanks for the interest and suggestion, but I don't think it will solve my clearance problems. You might look at the following thread from earlier this year about clearances on my '33 with both a stock 348 pump and a truck pump. The only way I could solve the clearance problem is by going higher, not lower. However, I do appreciate your interest and suggestion.

http://www.348-409.com/forum/threads/truck-water-pump-dimensions-for-jed.43266/#post-485226
John
 

32witha409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
I gave no consideration for the electric fan you were test fitting with my pump suggestion. I never considered the Efan an option in my build. I have plenty of for/aft room for my mechanical fan setup in my 32, only the vertical position was an issue with a passenger car WP. A 33/34 would be an easier fit so I figured that was your issue as well. The big pump you were fitting in your other post would have never worked for me, and I do have one that I did fitting with. The mid-rise pump was spot on.
 

JED

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 5
I would like to offer a possible solution for a fan that i have used on 2 W motors and that is a Speedway 6 bladed aluminum fan (w/o) clutch bolted directly to your pump, without spacers of course. These fans resemble GM fans except blades are evenly spaced and are compact and around 40 bucks. They do not make noise like flex fans and they WON'T flex towards your radiator. Unfortunately, i am not home to tell you how much clearance you would have left, if any. Just more input for you.

32witha409: Thanks for the interest and suggestion, but I don't think it will solve my clearance problems. You might look at the following thread from earlier this year about clearances on my '33 with both a stock 348 pump and a truck pump. The only way I could solve the clearance problem is by going higher, not lower. However, I do appreciate your interest and suggestion.

http://www.348-409.com/forum/threads/truck-water-pump-dimensions-for-jed.43266/#post-485226

Well, it appears that I have finally found a fan to radiator clearance solution. Thank you to everyone who helped me work to a solution for this problem (Jim Sullivan and Dean). It turns out that an old-style rubber-only engine mount for 58-72 Chevy (NAPA # BK 602-1054) instead of the steel interlock style of mount moved the engine back 5/8". I also replaced the 6-blade steel AFCO fan with a 4-blade steel Speedway fan. The 6-blade fan would have worked well but it had curled tips that dug into the lower end of the radiator. The 4-blade fan does not have the curled ends and gives me about 3/4" clearance between the fan tips and the radiator at the bottom (closest point in the fan arc to the radiator.) It was advertised as a high RPM racing fan, so I hope that it will still pull decent air at idle speeds. Photos of both the 6- and 4- blade fans are enclosed. Both are 15" fans.
After using the new engine mounts, I also had to redo the trans mounting plate to accommodate the additional 5/8" setback.
2020_06_25-6-bladeFan Interference-IMG_2530.jpg
2020-06-25-4-blade fan clearance-IMG_2533.jpg
 
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